Hi All,

I have settled on the ProComp lift for the beast. After replacing the brakes and lines at all 4 corners (and center for line), I realize there is just no travel in the suspension. I have no bump stops left on the front and minimal left on the rear. Even with no bump stops left, there is just no travel room available. Since I still have littles (5 and 8 currently) who absolutely adore the beast, I think 4" is really to max I want to lift it. That said, I have heard that the 4" moves the Ex from short travel to mid travel suspension. While I understand the idea, I am curious about real world thoughts/application. I have also read that it is suggested to leave the sway bar disconnected.

In our area, the roads are in decent shape until I get home. My driveway is essentially a 1/2 mile of road that is non-stop pot holes that are anywhere from 3-6" deep. The last half of the driveway is a 26% grade with the same 3"-6" potholes and near shear drop-off on either side. Currently while traveling up the hill, when we hit the potholes (usually 12mph or less), the Ex and passengers basically become a metronome until we get to the top. The kids like it, the wife not so much.

End goal is a more comfortable ride for the family where we don't bounce off the frame for bumps that are more than a piece of cardboard in the road.

So questions - with the Excursion application


In real world experience, how is the mid travel different than the short travel?
With the 4" lift, does the Ex seem to be more top heavy or gain a large amount of lean in corners?
Will the 4" lift exacerbate the pendulum/rocking we experience when encountering potholes?
What does disconnecting the sway bar accomplish? I assume this is the rear sway bar - am I correct?

Thank you guys, appreciate the help.

-Terracar

 

Well, I can't answer all of them, but I will tell you that with the ProComp and bilstein shocks on mine, and no rear sway bar, I don't feel top heavy at all and there's virtually no lean in the corners at either slow speeds or getting on the highway around a cloverleaf interchange. The X sits right down and feels super stable. The only real potholes I hit are the ones on the highway at speed (when I can't avoid them) and while a bit rough, no real bouncing. I will say that I get a bit of rocking at slow speeds coming out of a parking lot and going across the semi circle dips at the transitions on an angle (one wheel at a time). As I understand it, removing the sway bar in this application allows the suspension to actually travel and not be bound up. But, I'll leave it to @pirate4x4_camo to explain the nuances of how and why that happens.

 

I have this setup and it is worlds better handling than what it was stock. The ride is firmer but not harsh. The center of gravity is higher no doubt but I've not noticed any real world issues. I only have a front sway bar and do not see a need for a rear one.

 

The rear sway bar is what is currently causing your abrupt “pendulum/ rocking” now.

try this.

Go drive your road, taking note of vehicle behavior.

unbolt the rear driver side sway bar link and go drive it again.

the suspension will now move independent of the body.

obviously with no bump stops you want to avoid bottoming out, that is a whole different problem.

 

@pirate4x4_camo

3rd times a charm - I had a long write up and lost it twice on the phone. Unsure if this will be as long.

Hi Pirate,

Thank you for your suggestions/input. To be clear I am ignorant with suspension, especially when it comes to solid axles.

I do not have a rear sway bar, so I am assuming the worn suspension is more the culprit in this case.

I have read several of your suspension posts and glad you chimed in. I am going with the 22210/22415 swap. I have copied a summary list by another member based on one of your posts with the parts list and have a few questions:
- Is a drop pitman arm necessary with this setup?
- It is my interpretation, this setup removes the factory block, which helps reduce/eliminate axle wrap. Is this correct?


I took some pictures of my current suspension (measures 24" front and 25" rear with empty airbags) and noticed a few things that are concerning to me and hoping for input/advice.
Front springs have a reverse curvature.
Front shows tie rod and track bar (unsure what they are called) are not parallel. I thought these are supposed to be parallel?
The end of the rear overload leaf/snubber is shifted to the passenger side on both sides. Notice the wear where my finger tip is and how off-center the snubber wear mark is. Would this indicate an incorrect installation? Perhaps when they installed the airbags.
On the last photo, there appears to be multiple blocks. Is the lower most one the spring perch for the rear axle and not a block?



Front bump stop area - notice reverse curvature of spring

The tie rod and track bar are not parallel

overload leaf/snubber is shifted to the passenger side on both sides. Notice the wear where my finger tip is and how off-center the snubber wear mark is.

This appears to be multiple blocks on the rear - I thought this was a no-no.

Thank you to all in advance for any assistance. I will learn this stuff yet.

-Terracar/Joe

 

The overload leaf on the rear that you mentioned and pictured isn't an overload leaf, it's the factory traction bar that came on all 4X4 EXs.
Your picture of the rear block doesn't show any stacked blocks, the lower part is the spring perch on the axle, then the factory lift block then the springs, perfectly normal.

 

Thank you WE3ZS for clarifying those items. Is it normal for the traction bar to be shifted off-center? Mine seems to be contacting metal to metal on the structure attached to the frame (to the left of my finger in picture).

-Terracar

 

No, it should be aligned with the rest of the spring pack. But if you are upgrading springs soon I wouldn't worry about how it currently is.

 

Agreed. Wanted to be sure, in case it is indicative of some other issue I may need to address while in there.

 

your front bump stop is missing because your shocks are Kaput, replace both sides bump stop with either stock ford or the cone shapped rubber ones from Dorman.
run air bags at 2psi unless you have a payload. ( you are supposed to remove a leaf to lower the spring rate when installing an Air spring )
replace ubolts and install correctly
install new shocks

enjoy

 

Rear shims with 22415, go thicker end towards front of vehicle correct? (Since pinion needs to rotate down)

Current measurement indicates need downward based on inclinometer. But still have other side with stock leaf springs still in.

Thank you

 

Finally getting around to installing the procomp 22210/22415s in the beast. I am a little surprised at the measurements.

The leaf spring length for the 22415 is (eye to eye) 53 1/8" vs stock at 56 1/2". Height for 22415 is 14" at center pin vs stock at 10" center pin.

I am unsure how the 22415 raise the rear 4" w/o the block when it will have to flatten to get same distance and not have a block.

 

Center pin removal was surprisingly easy. Here is the shim installed with the leaf pack.

 

it depends on what type of driveshaft you have in the rear. Double cardan or just u joint?

 

Just u-joint driveshaft. Things are at a stand still currently. Forgot to order new shackles, which will be here tomorrow, and been bucking and loading firewood.

-T