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I am about to get my running boards blasted and prepped for finish for my 1953 F100.
My truck is yellow with some black accents, so I am wanting to finish the running boards in black. Originally I was going to Epoxy them and then paint them black using the same 2-stage paint I used for other parts on the truck. (2-stage meaning, a base coat of black and then a clear coat on top of the base coat). The underside of the running boards, I was going to epoxy and then put bed liner, this would be the part that you can’t see.
After reading some posts tonight, some people said the pain will crack and flake off.
Is my method an OK idea? I wanted more than just a rattle can finish, but also don’t want to spend time and money on something that is not going to hold up.
Any suggestions pls send my way. With the weather here in the Northwest starting to warm up, I can start finishing up my painting and get the truck ready for the road after 4yrs.
A lot of people paint the running boards with spray on bed liner.
I am thinking that I would like to bed liner my running boards somewhat like the vehicle in the top photo. Just an example eventhough it is a Chevy.
Just my 2 cents
I'm going to use paint on bed liner also on mine. I used roll/brush on behind the seat and floor inside and outside on my cab. It works great and should wear well. Depends on what you want, shiney clear coat will look great until it gets scratched up. If you make sure everyone takes off their shoes before they get in it will be fine!
Properly prepared surfaces and properly applied primer and BC/CC won't crack. It will scratch and wear, but that's it.
I blasted, epoxy primed, and used single stage urethane on mine. The underside was epoxied and sprayed with bed liner. I made sure to brush the epoxy into the supports and all crevices. Later, I sprayed cavity wax into the supports and crevices for added protection.
It's been 2 years, and although the boards show some scratches, they have held up just fine.
I am about to get my running boards blasted and prepped for finish for my 1953 F100.
My truck is yellow with some black accents, so I am wanting to finish the running boards in black. Originally I was going to Epoxy them and then paint them black using the same 2-stage paint I used for other parts on the truck. (2-stage meaning, a base coat of black and then a clear coat on top of the base coat). The underside of the running boards, I was going to epoxy and then put bed liner, this would be the part that you can’t see.
After reading some posts tonight, some people said the pain will crack and flake off.
Is my method an OK idea? I wanted more than just a rattle can finish, but also don’t want to spend time and money on something that is not going to hold up.
Any suggestions pls send my way. With the weather here in the Northwest starting to warm up, I can start finishing up my painting and get the truck ready for the road after 4yrs.
I like your plan. Not sure about paint cracking off unless the prep was not done properly. If you have concerns about scratching on the topside of the boards I would recommend applying PPF (paint protection fillm) to the areas most likely to be scuffed. The film is easily applied and can be pealed off and replaced if/when it gets damaged.
Charlie's PPF idea is a good one. I also agree if the parts are properly prepped, the paint won't crack and flake. I would recommend instead of clear coating the black running boards, use a single stage urethane. When it does scratch and wear, it will still look black where clear scratches white. It also can be polished to repair easier and the scuffs won't show as much. While it may be functional, I personally don't care for the look of bedliner on exterior parts. As an alternative you can always use the step plates that were a period correct option for people concerned with keeping their truck looking nice. They're $65 at Mid-Fifty for the pair.
I brushed on black rustoleum hammered paint. Very durable and provides some texture. I painted them 20 years ago and use the truck at least once a week and don't see any scratches.
Thx everyone for the replies….I didn’t think about the scratches on a gloss clear coat that you are stepping on all the time..humm..
51Fred: has the power coating scratched up much?
If prepared and done correct it will not crack. This is a area where a flexible adhesion promoter can be used. To prevent scratches after they are cured I suggest 3M or XPEL clear paint protection. It's nearly invisible when installed right and works great.
The factory painted them and their still holding paint in places. I'd think they'd last you another 60 plus years in paint.
And I can guarantee the factory didn't put nearly as much paint on them as we would today. Plus, today's urethanes are a much higher quality and more durable than the alkyd enamel they used then, too.
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