Headlight switch question
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,091
Likes: 599
From: Lancaster, CA.
Headlight switch question
The new 12 volt headlight switch I bought is a P.O.S. ...The **** & shaft keep pulling out of the switch.. sometimes it would stay put, but most times not.
Can I use the 6 Volt switch that I have ? Its a '55
Can I use the 6 Volt switch that I have ? Its a '55
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 3,648
Likes: 816
From: Swan River Valley M.B Can
Is something holding the button at the back of the switch down or is it not popping up properly ? I have over the years had many that were very difficult to release but never had one that wouldn't hold .
Phantom of the Phorum
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 5,472
Likes: 1,696
From: Kentucky
You may want to connect the front marker lights to the tail light post, if you want them to stay on when the headlights are on.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,872
Likes: 294
From: Central Michigan
I had a longer **** for some reason. (I had a whole bunch of parts that came with my unassembled truck) Anyway the **** would sometimes stay and sometimes pull out. I ended up buying a new **** and it works fine. If you have a new switch I would try a new **** first- worked for me.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 1,906
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From: Hillsborough NJ
wherever you bought it, return it and ask for a replacement.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,091
Likes: 599
From: Lancaster, CA.
i bought it about 2 years ago and just put it in a couple months ago....I bought it from Mid fifty & they are pretty good about taking care of their customers, so they might replace it. But I'm tired of these reproduction parts being low quality.
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,091
Likes: 599
From: Lancaster, CA.
I had a longer **** for some reason. (I had a whole bunch of parts that came with my unassembled truck) Anyway the **** would sometimes stay and sometimes pull out. I ended up buying a new **** and it works fine. If you have a new switch I would try a new **** first- worked for me.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Lancaster, CA.
thank you....I thought it might be ok but wanted to make sure.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2020
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From: Hillsborough NJ
damn...2 years!! I bought a headliner 2 months ago and just discovered it was missing pieces, I felt bad calling carpenter to ask for the parts today.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,091
Likes: 599
From: Lancaster, CA.
Yeah...I bought a bunch of parts when they were having a Black friday sale a couple years back.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,603
Likes: 44
I have found that the **** is pressed in two deep for the shaft to lock in the switch. Its
most impossible to get the **** of before it breaks. My fix bust off the **** and replace
with a wiper **** that has a set screw. They sell ***** but not with the shaft. Yes the
wiper and headlight ***** are a little different but who knows or cares...
most impossible to get the **** of before it breaks. My fix bust off the **** and replace
with a wiper **** that has a set screw. They sell ***** but not with the shaft. Yes the
wiper and headlight ***** are a little different but who knows or cares...
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,462
Likes: 185
From: Dedham, MA
Is there a push button on the switch that released the **** shaft? If so, I had a similar issue with a switch on my 65 Galaxie. It worked great until the first time I removed the ****, and then the button never reset on the shaft and it didn't stay in. I had to get a whole new switch, unfortunately.
As noted, the 6 volt should be okay temporarily, but I don't think I'd feel comfortable leaving it in as a permanent solution.
As noted, the 6 volt should be okay temporarily, but I don't think I'd feel comfortable leaving it in as a permanent solution.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 1,906
Likes: 763
From: Hillsborough NJ
That said, running all that current through any switch is not the best way to go. I installed headlight relays in my 48, one for low and one for high beams. The current through the switch is just a few ma.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,091
Likes: 599
From: Lancaster, CA.
I have found that the **** is pressed in two deep for the shaft to lock in the switch. Its
most impossible to get the **** of before it breaks. My fix bust off the **** and replace
with a wiper **** that has a set screw. They sell ***** but not with the shaft. Yes the
wiper and headlight ***** are a little different but who knows or cares...
most impossible to get the **** of before it breaks. My fix bust off the **** and replace
with a wiper **** that has a set screw. They sell ***** but not with the shaft. Yes the
wiper and headlight ***** are a little different but who knows or cares...
the lights would come on when that happened & would shut off when I put the **** back into the switch.
Now the shaft shuts goes in & out of the switch & nothing happens. Its not catching inside the switch.
I have an original **** & it does the same thing.
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,091
Likes: 599
From: Lancaster, CA.
The 6v switch will be ok for the long term. The limiting factor isn’t voltage as much as current. Since the current will be lower at 12v it will be fine.
That said, running all that current through any switch is not the best way to go. I installed headlight relays in my 48, one for low and one for high beams. The current through the switch is just a few ma.
That said, running all that current through any switch is not the best way to go. I installed headlight relays in my 48, one for low and one for high beams. The current through the switch is just a few ma.
And I put halogen lights in with relays so Im good there too