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Installing High Cap. Tow Equipment

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Old Oct 8, 2020 | 10:33 PM
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Installing High Cap. Tow Equipment

My 2020 F250 67L did not come with “High Capacity Tow Package”. I tow a 10,000# (loaded) RV - not often, but about 2-3 1000-mi trips annually. No problems towing up to this point. Is there any value installing any of the same equipment (either after-market or OEM) that would have come with that package? I have the 3.31 rear end and probably benefit from a tad better fuel mileage when not towing (which is most of the time). The “10000# GVWR package” (sticker) is listed, but seems only a paper figure to me. Thoughts on the important (or not) of any higher capacity equipment to would actually have practical value? Thanks.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2020 | 11:21 PM
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Well the HCTP is F-350 rear leafs with overloads, Dana M275 axle and 3" hitch along with a 10,800lb GVWR on SB. I don't see a economic reason to add this after purchase.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2020 | 08:33 AM
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Thanks for the reply, Gashog. Ok - obviously I’m not considering changing any of the equipment you cited such as axles and leafs. And I’ve already heard about the benefits of the 350 over the 250, etc. But I can’t go backwards in time. I was fortunate to get a super deal on the 250 when my 150 broke down. My thinking was more in line with larger capacity transmission cooler - is that in the HCTP?. I think I could supplement suspension with airbags, but I don’t see the need with an 8800# trailer (about 10,000# loaded). Maybe you’ve already answered my question - “leave well enough alone.”
 
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Old Oct 9, 2020 | 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by MWB777
Thanks for the reply, Gashog. Ok - obviously I’m not considering changing any of the equipment you cited such as axles and leafs. And I’ve already heard about the benefits of the 350 over the 250, etc. But I can’t go backwards in time. I was fortunate to get a super deal on the 250 when my 150 broke down. My thinking was more in line with larger capacity transmission cooler - is that in the HCTP?. I think I could supplement suspension with airbags, but I don’t see the need with an 8800# trailer (about 10,000# loaded). Maybe you’ve already answered my question - “leave well enough alone.”
With the 6.7PSD, you get all the trans cooling FoMoCo puts in their trucks. AFAIK. For your tow behind trailer, there would be no real advantage to spending the money.
For a lot of years the 10.5 Sterling did the job with no issues........even in the earlier duallies. Drive what you have and enjoy the ride.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2020 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by MWB777
Thanks for the reply, Gashog. Ok - obviously I’m not considering changing any of the equipment you cited such as axles and leafs. And I’ve already heard about the benefits of the 350 over the 250, etc. But I can’t go backwards in time. I was fortunate to get a super deal on the 250 when my 150 broke down. My thinking was more in line with larger capacity transmission cooler - is that in the HCTP?. I think I could supplement suspension with airbags, but I don’t see the need with an 8800# trailer (about 10,000# loaded). Maybe you’ve already answered my question - “leave well enough alone.”
The trans cooler is the same on all the 6.7 trucks.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2020 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 99150
With the 6.7PSD, you get all the trans cooling FoMoCo puts in their trucks. AFAIK. For your tow behind trailer, there would be no real advantage to spending the money.
For a lot of years the 10.5 Sterling did the job with no issues........even in the earlier duallies. Drive what you have and enjoy the ride.
My 96 with the Sterling 10.25 didn't tow at all but I plowed commercially with that truck and plowed a LOT of snow with no problems. Worked the hell out of truck but maintenance is key to longevity.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2020 | 12:48 PM
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With your loaded trailer hooked up, how is your truck and trailer's attitude. Too much sag in the truck, and is your trailer nose too low? I measured ground clearance to the rear fenders of my truck and on all four corners of my trailer before and after hooking up the trailer. Sometimes your eyes may or may not detect the height differences. Correcting those would be aided by air bags, which is why I added bags to my 350. The rest of the time I leave about 4lbs of air in the bags to protect them from ripping if I get a lot of suspension travel. I don't want inflated bags to cause my ride to be any worse.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2020 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by KodiakF250
With your loaded trailer hooked up, how is your truck and trailer's attitude. Too much sag in the truck, and is your trailer nose too low? I measured ground clearance to the rear fenders of my truck and on all four corners of my trailer before and after hooking up the trailer. Sometimes your eyes may or may not detect the height differences. Correcting those would be aided by air bags, which is why I added bags to my 350. The rest of the time I leave about 4lbs of air in the bags to protect them from ripping if I get a lot of suspension travel. I don't want inflated bags to cause my ride to be any worse.
Well said, Kodiak. What I’ve been considering. The TT hitch is already an equalizer WB hitch and I tune it pretty well for a level ride loaded. But the bags give options. Thanks.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2020 | 01:24 PM
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Myself, I would be hesitant to rely on airbags on the modern boxed, rigid, thin wall, what they call “high strength” frames. One is taking the job away from the designed suspension, and putting stress at points it was not designed for. But, that might just be me. My own opinion is that Ford quit the ‘C’ channel frames (a proven design) to satisfy GM advertising, and they require less material. I wonder why the “C” channel works so good in class 8 trucks? If they need it stronger, they just double up the “C” channel. I.E. one rail right inside the main rail. AKA double frame rails. But, of course, this is just all my opinion so take it for what it is worth.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2020 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 99150
Myself, I would be hesitant to rely on airbags on the modern boxed, rigid, thin wall, what they call “high strength” frames. One is taking the job away from the designed suspension, and putting stress at points it was not designed for. But, that might just be me. My own opinion is that Ford quit the ‘C’ channel frames (a proven design) to satisfy GM advertising, and they require less material. I wonder why the “C” channel works so good in class 8 trucks? If they need it stronger, they just double up the “C” channel. I.E. one rail right inside the main rail. AKA double frame rails. But, of course, this is just all my opinion so take it for what it is worth.
I think you have a valid concern if an owner was running the bags up to high pressure in order to take on a very heavy load. However, most people I know that use bags as a supplemental aid are doing so with less than 20lbs of air to help level the truck and trailer. That still leaves the OEM suspension largely in play as the primary suspension. In those cases, I don't think there is any risk of damage, and honestly, I have never heard of anyone incurring damage.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2020 | 02:18 PM
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[QUOTE=KodiakF250;19518251]I think you have a valid concern if an owner was running the bags up to high pressure in order to take on a very heavy load. However, most people I know that use bags as a supplemental aid are doing so with less than 20lbs of air to help level the truck and trailer. That still leaves the OEM suspension largely in play as the primary suspension. In those cases, I don't think there is any risk of damage, and honestly, I have never heard of anyone incurring damage.[/QUOTE]
Yet........time will tell. The fully boxed frame from FoMoCo has only been out a few years, and it may never be an issue, IDK. As stated......this is just my opinion and worth what it costs anyone!
 
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Old Oct 9, 2020 | 02:30 PM
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Don't waste your money on air bags for a travel trailer. Assuming you have 1000 pound bars on your WDH, you might consider going to 1500 or 2000 pound bars, but that's about it.
No need to fix a problem that doesn't exist.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2020 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by wrvond
Don't waste your money on air bags for a travel trailer. Assuming you have 1000 pound bars on your WDH, you might consider going to 1500 or 2000 pound bars, but that's about it.
No need to fix a problem that doesn't exist.
Its not a waste if he has the need for the bags. I have a travel trailer that has 1200lbs of tongue weight and even though I can tighten the WDH to add a couple hundred pounds of positive weight to my front axle the truck still sits low in the rear, most likely due to the weight I carry in the bed. The hitch seems way too tight at that setting. I installed air bags and let a little off the WDH And can still bring the rear level with the bags. The bags also help when I'm towing a trailer without a WDH.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2020 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by dirthawg
Its not a waste if he has the need for the bags. I have a travel trailer that has 1200lbs of tongue weight and even though I can tighten the WDH to add a couple hundred pounds of positive weight to my front axle the truck still sits low in the rear, most likely due to the weight I carry in the bed. The hitch seems way too tight at that setting. I installed air bags and let a little off the WDH And can still bring the rear level with the bags. The bags also help when I'm towing a trailer without a WDH.
Exactly my thoughts. The only thing I'd add is it's not uncommon for me to put a load in the bed of my truck when I'm hauling my car in my trailer or if I'm taking a trip. Stick 1,000 lbs of stuff in my bed adds to the need for a rear end boost. Now whether the OP has this problem too, I don't know, and I'm not familiar with the new truck's capabilities either. Throwing it out there for him to consider because a WDH does have its limitations. I bag up a little and hook up my WDH.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2020 | 09:46 PM
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Good points on the bags, guys. Yes, Kodak, I do haul stuff in the bed - probably 300# or so. And I’m pretty sure the heaviest stuff is near the tailgate, so that adds up too. One of the problems RV haulers deal with is that its really inconvenient to have the RV loaded and ready to go - then recalibrate all the set up. Maybe I’m just avoiding inconvenience (and my wife finally ready to hit the road after hours of loading and organizing) of “doing it right”, so I’ve calibrated the WD hitch with the trailer empty, then adding maybe an inch higher for added weight drop at the hitch. I know guys - tell me how wrong that is :-)
 
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