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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Header recommendations - 65(3 on tree) with a 69 302

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Old Jul 29, 2020 | 05:06 PM
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Header recommendations - 65(3 on tree) with a 69 302

Hi guys.... I'm looking for header recommendations for a 65 that originally had a 6 cylinder. It was converted to a 69 302 mustang engine at some point and I believe the transmission and everything else to be stock... I did do some searching but most what I could find left me confused (it's not hard :-)... So, without wielding/fabricating, are there any viable solutions out there?? Short or medium length would be fine too... From what I could gather the shorty's sound like a sure thing? If so, any recommendations would be appreciated... Thanks again!!
 
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Old Jul 29, 2020 | 05:17 PM
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Block hugger shorty header are the most viable choice.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2020 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Christmas
Block hugger shorty header are the most viable choice.
Thanks!! I'll look em up!
 
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Old Jul 29, 2020 | 08:13 PM
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Sanderson shorty block huggers. Call them tell them the application and they will tell you which version works best. They list two - FF2 or FF5. I can’t remember which one I got, but called and they recommended one or the other and they fit great. I’d look, but truck is in NC and I’m currently working in TX
 
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Old Jul 29, 2020 | 08:39 PM
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Just search for headers for a 1969 f-100 with 302. Available space around engine & frame should be same as 65/66. Lots of options, though I didn’t pay attention as to whether they work with the 3 on tree.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2020 | 10:09 PM
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The problem with long tube headers is trying to get by the Z-bar. This is a kind of hit n miss situation.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2020 | 01:12 PM
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On my 65 with the 68 289/302 and T18 I installed Hooker long-tube many years ago and found the flange ends at the engine cross-member leaving little if any clearance, same with my other 65 with the 390 and column shift. I did take a grinder and remove a small amount of material from the cross-member but on severe rough terrain the flange would occasionally strike the cross-member and as a result twice pulled the passenger header and had shop weld cracks between the tubes, perhaps shorties, or perhaps cutting before the flange then weld a piece that extends beyond the cross-member as a possible solution??

I kept the original exhaust manifold and now in the process of replacing the Hooker Headers with the originals, I came across a set of stainless down-pipes from Summit that will mount perfectly and the flange extends far beyond the cross-member. I decided to keep the 4bbl set-up and figure to save money on the cost of headers, also recall how well it ran with the original exhaust.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2020 | 01:28 PM
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I keep debating headers for my 1965 F-100, currently has a 302, getting a 1984 351W 4bbl. It has the small valve heads, and it's relatively low compression. I am refreshing the engine, and putting in a Comp Cams RV hydraulic flat tappet camshaft.
I think I'm going to use the stock 351W exhaust manifolds, dual exhaust. Not sure headers will gain much for me. The clutch Z bar tends to get in the way of most headers, even shorties.

I'm primarily looking for torque, I doubt the engine will ever see over 4000 rpm, so headers probably wouldn't help much.

But, dang it! I WANT headers!
 
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Old Jul 30, 2020 | 02:32 PM
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Yes I also wanted headers and had I noticed any significant difference I would again have a shop weld the cracks; having said that, when I purchased the crate 289/302 engine I informed the shop that I wanted a cam installed for the 4bbl application yet considering the smaller exhaust ports, rear axle ratio and T18 transmission limitations I found 3500-4000 rpm was pressing and rarely, if ever, got into the secondary jets? Anyhow, figure it is worth it all else fails I can have the cracks long tubes repaired?
 
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Old Jul 30, 2020 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by rdixiemiller
I keep debating headers for my 1965 F-100, currently has a 302, getting a 1984 351W 4bbl. It has the small valve heads, and it's relatively low compression. I am refreshing the engine, and putting in a Comp Cams RV hydraulic flat tappet camshaft.
I think I'm going to use the stock 351W exhaust manifolds, dual exhaust. Not sure headers will gain much for me. The clutch Z bar tends to get in the way of most headers, even shorties.

I'm primarily looking for torque, I doubt the engine will ever see over 4000 rpm, so headers probably wouldn't help much.

But, dang it! I WANT headers!
The problem I had with the 351w stock manifolds is the driver side exited really close to the firewall.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2020 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by g4g2g7
Just search for headers for a 1969 f-100 with 302. Available space around engine & frame should be same as 65/66. Lots of options, though I didn’t pay attention as to whether they work with the 3 on tree.
Yea, it looks like lots of room in there but it seems just by this thread and others I have read, there could be fitting issues... I'm a bolt on guy only... :-)...

Guys thanks... Maybe I'll just stick with stock exhaust manifolds... I have a leaky exhaust somewhere up front so I was thinking now's the time to maybe switch to headers.. A little HP boost cant hurt?

Thanks again! Jack...
 
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 12:08 PM
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I just picked up a set of FOX Mustang 1988-93 tubular exhaust manifolds. 20 bux on Marketplace. They look like they will work on the drivers side. I'll give the drivers side a test fit tonight. They are supposed to work well up to about 300 hp, and they are plentiful.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by rdixiemiller
I just picked up a set of FOX Mustang 1988-93 tubular exhaust manifolds. 20 bux on Marketplace. They look like they will work on the drivers side. I'll give the drivers side a test fit tonight. They are supposed to work well up to about 300 hp, and they are plentiful.
Keep me posted!! 302 engine??
 
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 10:37 PM
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Fox manifolds are a bust.....

Fox manifold dumps right into the clutch Z bar. I could probably cut up a pair, make a drivers side unit, but that defeats the whole "Simple and Cheap" concept.
I do think they would work just fine with an automatic. Anyone wants to give that a try, Ill donate the set I have, and the head pipe sections to the cause. Shipping would be the only cost.
 
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