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47 panel jag xj6 swap in progress

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Old Nov 11, 2019 | 07:28 PM
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47 panel jag xj6 swap in progress

So today I finally spent the time and made some front template mounts for my jag xj6 swap for my 47 merc panel. I wanted it to bolt in for now. I ended up trimming the frame straight where the rad cross member is so I could build a 1/4 inch steel plate. The plate will bolt in with 4 bolts for now and the inner mount will be welded onto it.
The outter mount bolts into 2 existing holes. I will lay a bead around it all once my electrician comes around.
I still have to make some rear spacers but that's not a big deal.
Tomorrow, I'll be taking these templates to my buddy's shop and he will make them up real quick for me.






 
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Old Nov 13, 2019 | 03:43 PM
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Well I got my outter brackets today, bolted up just fine. I made spacers for the rear out of 1/2 inch aluminum. Just got to do some drilling for the rear of the subframw and shell be fully bolted in! Still need to clean them up nice once everything is bolted up.


 
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Old Nov 14, 2019 | 05:01 PM
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Well I got the jag front end all bolted in! Still have some clean up and got to make one more inner bracket. But the subframe is supporting the weight of the panel!


 
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Old Mar 21, 2020 | 08:55 PM
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Hi Powerhour been a while since i have been in here your Jag install looks great, we use them a lot down here in Australia.
I also have a Jailbar 1/2 ton panel van with a jag front end



I make and sell shock mounts for the jag frontend conversions they weld to the top of the tower and use a VW shock, probaly sold about 90 sets over the years around Australia, New Zealand, UK and the USA they are $75. Australian dollars plus postage which would be $25, total $100.00
you can email me toprodz@iprimus.com.au if I can help at all
Kind Regards
Peter Gough





 
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Old Mar 22, 2020 | 12:02 AM
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Hey thanks man, how have you been? Have you made any progress on your build? It looks awesome, do you have any more pictures? I just fired mine up back in January. I still have to get a radiator and mount it. Then I'll be able to warm it up and check for leaks. Got any pictures of yours? I have more pics but got to find them in my phone or take new ones lol.

Yes it's yellow and it will be changing soon.

I used a 98 chevy ignition coil and a 6 pin chevy ignition module.


Wiring for the power for the ignition switches and gauge lights.



Mopar b block distributor to chevy ignition. I used the newer coil from a 98 chevy 350 vortec. With a mopar distributor using this coil, you have use this 5 pin (if you plan on using ignition time management system) or the 4 pin module. You can't use the stock one that would come with this coil as it is the wrong frequency for the distributior. Used the stock 98 vortec.0.060 gap.

I had some flat bar kicking around and I felt like making a distributor mounting bracket.


The truck pan from a big block mopar truck and used 3/8's brake line, bent it and cut it to the correct size and made a mount.

​​​​
 
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Old Mar 23, 2020 | 05:38 AM
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Hi Powerhour
I have had the van on hold for a few years after a so called mate who was doing some panel work for me went rogue and stole the rear doors and held me to ransom for a while till I paid more money to get them back, so i lost interest for a while, and started another project, I still have to finish it off before I can get back soley on the van, the other one is a 1928 A Model ford tourer.


Now we have the bloody corona virus, so I am going to be stuck home for a while so have bought a whole lot of my sheetmetal tools home from work so that I can work on it while I am stuck at home,
Heres where it is up to at the moment









All the door skins have been unpicked for patch panels, the roof skin has been cut off as it had rusted from the inside along the full length of the gutters, the patchs have been made and tacked in ready to finish welding, then refitting. I removed the cowl and remade the cowl vent, as well as i have made a new fire wall to weld in place, so while I have time off I am going to work on all the fenders and front doors. I was pretty lucky the other day as a mate found a new old stock front right fender, so I will have to make a new wheel arch for it as it is a truck one
Here's a few more pictures



Heres a couple of pictures of a bus i have as well


 
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Old Mar 23, 2020 | 03:51 PM
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Holy that's unfortunate! Looks like you've done a lot of metal work! Lots fantastic! I'm hoping to get some progress on mine. I'm thinking I might weld my front end in to get it a bit lower and provide some rigidity to the front. Still got to do the rear end of the jag
 
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Old Mar 24, 2020 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Powerhour
Holy that's unfortunate! Looks like you've done a lot of metal work! Lots fantastic! I'm hoping to get some progress on mine. I'm thinking I might weld my front end in to get it a bit lower and provide some rigidity to the front. Still got to do the rear end of the jag
If you are going to weld the front end in make sure that you can get the lower arm long bolts out as they tend to seize up with rust, if they are stuck, I have good success by sitting the front end on its back with the nuts removed on the lower arms and heating bolt up with an oxy torch and melting a candle down the bolt into the tube , the bushes will burn, try and turn the bolt as you go, take your time and they will come out
Kind Regards
Peter
 
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Old Mar 25, 2020 | 11:38 AM
  #9  
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I'll try that for sure! I hate rust and deal with it all the time here on Vancouver Island.
Question, what chevy wheels have you found that fit these jags? I've tried a few and none of then fit the centre bore. Bolt pattern is correct but not the bore
 
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Old Mar 27, 2020 | 01:00 AM
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Hi I used aftermarket wheel vintiques smoothie wheels with the dual bolt pattern, which have a bigger hole in the center, the only thing I found was that the chev bolt pattern holes need to have the tapered holes enlarged to the same as the ford ones as the nuts didn't seat properly into the taper.
On my A model I had the stud pattern changed on the jag diff to ford with longer studs and used the matching ford holes in the wilwood front brake hubs
 
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Old Mar 27, 2020 | 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by toprodz
Hi I used aftermarket wheel vintiques smoothie wheels with the dual bolt pattern, which have a bigger hole in the center, the only thing I found was that the chev bolt pattern holes need to have the tapered holes enlarged to the same as the ford ones as the nuts didn't seat properly into the taper.
On my A model I had the stud pattern changed on the jag diff to ford with longer studs and used the matching ford holes in the wilwood front brake hubs
That's good to know! I wish I could get the hub machined smaller but I'm not sure how much meat will be left.
What is the offset and back spacing on the wheels?
 
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Old Mar 29, 2020 | 08:11 PM
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The front wheels where 15 x 7 with 215/70 x 15 tires on them they had a 4" back space, I was going to have them modified to move the center of the rim out about an inch to move the wheel face in a bit for more clearance around the fender, this would also make them similar to the negative offset of the Jag wheels, The other option was to do a brake conversion that is available in Australia that would move the wheel face in about 3/4" on each side, but I was going to wait till closer to the build end to make up my mind
Peter
 
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Old Mar 30, 2020 | 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by toprodz
The front wheels where 15 x 7 with 215/70 x 15 tires on them they had a 4" back space, I was going to have them modified to move the center of the rim out about an inch to move the wheel face in a bit for more clearance around the fender, this would also make them similar to the negative offset of the Jag wheels, The other option was to do a brake conversion that is available in Australia that would move the wheel face in about 3/4" on each side, but I was going to wait till closer to the build end to make up my mind
Peter
Thank you for all of the info it is much appreciated! What is this brake swapped from? Are they still decent brakes?
 
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