I recently acquired a 1996 F-250 351W. It was not running well when I got it but got it going. (It had just sat too long).
Drove it for one week and then it cut out on me and then it would not start back. It has no spark I have replaced battery distributor coil plugs plug wires PCM ignition control module. I am trying to find out why there is no spark there is 12 volts at the coil. Any help would be wonderful.

 

1) Stop throwing parts at it. Except for maybe the battery and distributor cap and rotor, chances are good you didn’t have to replace anything else.

2) Thoroughly inspect the wiring in the engine bay and under the driver side dash/steering column area. If it sat for a long time, mice are sure to have made a home in it somewhere.

3) Pull DTC’s - being a 96 it’s got OBD 2 - you can get cheap code readers at places like harbor freight for less than $30.

4) Post the codes here so we can help you work through them.

 

It's not obd2. (I know weird) it is EEC.

I have no idea where to start with wires. There are so many. I don't know what goes where or to what.

 

Ok - since it has a gas engine I thought it would be considered light duty and therefore be OBD 2. Regardless, an OBD 1 code reader is about the same cost (the Equus Innova 3145 is a good one) or you can get on YouTube for videos on how to retrieve them by counting the flashes of the CEL.

With the wiring all you’re looking for is damaged wires that are bare/cut due to rodents and repair as necessary. As long as you can match up colors there shouldn’t be any reason to worry.

With 12v to the coil, It sounds like the ground side isn’t being pulsed. Pulling the codes will help determine why.

 

there are no codes being thrown. That's the problem.
Also left my ignition on last night so dead battery.... Yay me. I'm kicking myself so hard right now.

 

also have these other connectors next to the EEC connector. Which IDK what they are

 

Mistakes happen. Give the battery plenty of time to charge before attempting further diagnosis.

I’m not trying to imply anything, but I have to ask - are you sure you had the code reader hooked up correctly? In addition to the EEC connector, the gray connector with the single pin also has to be hooked up to the single pin on the code reader. This is the self test output circuit which is used by the code reader/PCM to initiate test modes. If you had it hooked up and still weren’t getting any codes, there’s a problem with the wiring to the PCM or the PCM itself.

I’ll have to look it up later but you’ll want to verify all the related power and ground feeds for the PCM and ICM - if you have the owner manual it should list all the fuses for them.

The round one is a test connector for the RABS. The other one I’m not sure - did the cover have terminals attached to a metal strip? If so it’s just a splice. If not, it’s likely another test connector, possibly for the transmission or maybe it’s one used by Ford to read live data.

 

Also, to make sure I’m looking at the right wiring diagram, I need the following:

1) Engine code H or R (8th digit of VIN)
2) Over or under 8600# GVWR? (Sticker on driver door jamb)
3) Auto or manual trans? If auto, is it E40D?

 

Engine code H
GVRW 8600
Auto. Believe it is E40D.

It's a 1996 with EEV and the 60 Pin connector for the EECM. Not the 104 pin.

It's a 1996 model year with 1995 components.

And yes the grey single connector was connected to the code scanner. New EECM.

 

Was the replacement ICM the same color as the one you replaced? I can’t recall the exact differences but it does matter.

If so, here’s a list of checks to make:

1) Fuse 22 (20A) in the engine bay fuse box - power for the ICM. If good, check for 12v at the red/light green wire at the ICM with KOEO.

2) Swap the PCM power relay with a known good one, try to start.

3) At the ICM, the pink wire is the spark output control wire - with the ICM hooked up, back probe the connector and ground it using a test light, then try cranking the engine. If the test light pulses when cranking, the ICM is working. If not, see below for checking the PCM circuits.

4) Initially I’d recommend unhooking the PCM connector and checking these circuits with a test light - the test light provides sufficient current flow to show whether or not any of the power or ground feeds have an issue (for example, it would glow dimly with low voltage, indicating high resistance and flickering would indicate intermittent opens). With the battery fully charged, sample the brightness of the test light by just connecting it between B+ and B- so you’ll know if it’s glowing dimly.

I recommend using the battery as your connection point just to make sure the results are accurate.

Pin # - Wire color - Signal/Voltage - Key Position - Test Light Connection Point

1 - Yellow - KAM Power/12v - Hot all times - B-
6 - Pink/Orange - VSS Ground - NA - B+
20 - Black - Case Ground - NA - B+
37 - Red - Power/12v - KOEO - B-
40 - Black/White - Ground - NA - B+
57 - Red - Power/12v - KOEO - B-
60 - Black/White - Ground - NA - B+

A couple notes -

1) Pins 37 and 57 are powered by the PCM power relay
2) Pins 40 and 60 are spliced and ground at G101 - the ground on the fender right next to the battery.

 

The other large, rectangular connector goes to the cruise control servo, if equipped.

 

Pull SPOUT plug and then try to start? Tell us what you find, Distributor PIP sensor caused mine to have no spark.

 

Correction: It's a 1996 with EEC-IV and a 60 pin connector.


Correction: It's a 1996 Federal Emission over 8500 lbs. GVW truck with the correct 1996 OBD-I components.


Since it appears neither computer (PCM) is displaying codes, even the System Pass Code 111, you either have a bad code reader or the pins on the data link could be corroded. Try cleaning them with contact cleaner or if they are really bad try a small finger nail file.

 

This is just FYI. I have a 96 Bronco and it has both EEC IV and OBD2 plugs. one under hood and OBD under dash.

 

Could you post a photo of the under hood OBD-I/EEC-IV diagnostic port?