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I bought the bracketry off an 83 Econoline 5.8 to put in my 83 F250 but I bought a reman Cardone 20-7878. The new pump came with a warning to re-use all the old bolts and studs but I didn't realize I had to grab that when I grabbed the brackets. I'm pretty sure these bolts here should work but I'm not 100% sure. I've also managed to find a part number e2uz-3d683-a but that is discontinued from Ford. The other issue is why is it $20 for freaking bolts?!?!
I may make a trip to the junkyard but power steering pumps are a pain in the butt to get too down on the bottom! The bolt I need is on the back too so I'd likely have to remove the whole pump to get it out.
Been down this road a couple of months ago. GM uses that same pump on my Tahoe. Where that green plug is located is a o-ring around the hole. That tear drop shape of the pump is a sheetmetal reservoir. The cast round part of the pump on the front has a large o-ring that seals the front of the tear drop reservoir, and any bolt bolts or studs in the rear have o-rings around them to seal in the oil. The bolt you need is a shoulder bolt. The support bracket fits the shoulder part of the bolt, and the threaded part screws into the back through the sheetmetal reservoir and presses it tight so the o-ring around the hole seals the oil in place. Any studs used back there also have a shoulder on them.
P.S. I see the bolts in your JEGS link do not have shoulders. What you will have to do is use one of the studs they give you, and screw it into the back of the pump first so it presses on the o-ring, and then let the stud stick through the bracket and use another nut to squeeze the bracket.
Well I ended up robbing two of the studs I need from the junkyard. Neither of them had an oring behind them.
SAE threads (sorry forgot to check), with an 18mm hex... Thanks Ford
The o-ring is behind the sheetmetal reservoir, you can't see it. You will know if it's not there, you will have a annoying oil leak. This special bolt/stud you obtained presses the sheetmetal reservoir against the o-ring underneath to keep it from leaking.
Here's a picture that shows the o-rings that seal the reservoir under the bolts. The o-rings on the upper right side of the picture go under the bolts you installed, the o-ring shown in the middle goes under the pressure outlet fitting. The o-ring to the very left goes around the pressure fitting to seal it to the pump. The other 3 o-rings mentioned all seal the large reservoir to the pump housing.
P.S. There is also a very large o-ring, shown at the very upper right, that seals the OD of the pump to the large hole in the reservoir. The description got cut off.
I'm really not seeing an o ring behind this stud. I went back to the junkyard today for an electric TBird fan and a wiring harness for the rear of my truck... Someone hacked mine all to crap.
Anyway, while I was there one of the pumps I robbed the stud for was still sitting under the van marked "Biohazard: Poop inside". Here's a picture.
It's right where the threads end and the back of the pump begins in the hole. You can't replace it unless you pull the whole back of the pump off (reservoir). It would not be right behind the bolt, the o-ring would just roll up and tear if it where right under the bolt head.
It's right where the threads end and the back of the pump begins in the hole. You can't replace it unless you pull the whole back of the pump off (reservoir). It would not be right behind the bolt, the o-ring would just roll up and tear if it where right under the bolt head.
I have a 1992 e-150, 300 straight 6, E40D
Quick question, I am think I cross-threaded the stud on the back of a replacement pump I pulled from a junkyard when I tried to clean it with a die.
Questions:
1) What is the thread pitch and diameter of the stud as it extrudes from the pump ?
2) I have a stud I removed from another pump. Can I just install it on the intended pump without also having to pull off the reservoir to put a new o-ring on ? Since the o-ring is on the inside of the reservoir I figured it's not something I have to replace when I replace the stud which is external to the reservoir but maybe I don't understand it correctly (hence why I am asking).
I do not know what the threads are. You could try just putting the stud in place, hopefully you haven't banged the pump around very much without the stud in place and the o-ring has fallen out into the reservoir.
If you have the stud that threads into the pump why not measure the thread size & pitch?
Also why is there a need to remove this stud?
Dave ----
The reason I need to remove the stud is because I somehow messed up the threads on it when I tried to clean the threads.
I have a re-threading kit for various popular thread dimensions along with a thread file to determine pitch. I think I measured the threads to be a pitch of 18, and it seemed to be a 3/8 -18. So I chose that die from the re-threading kit and it went on for about 1/4" then stopped. I backed it off and for whatever reason the threads were clearly screwed up from the die. The pitch file was pretty clearly matching 18, I have no idea what happened.
All that to say - I screwed up the threads on the stud trying to clean them up, so I want to put on a different stud.
The reason I need to remove the stud is because I somehow messed up the threads on it when I tried to clean the threads.
I have a re-threading kit for various popular thread dimensions along with a thread file to determine pitch. I think I measured the threads to be a pitch of 18, and it seemed to be a 3/8 -18. So I chose that die from the re-threading kit and it went on for about 1/4" then stopped. I backed it off and for whatever reason the threads were clearly screwed up from the die. The pitch file was pretty clearly matching 18, I have no idea what happened.
All that to say - I screwed up the threads on the stud trying to clean them up, so I want to put on a different stud.
If I were to guess, those threads may be metric. 10mm (.393) is very close to 3/8 (.375). A common coarse thread is 1.5 per mm. 1.5mm thread pitch is 16.9 threads per inch. So that is very close to 3/8-16. There is no 3/8-18. Fine thread would be 3/8-24
Take any 3/8-16 bolt and thread it in where the stud is supposed to go. Verify the fit. Then buy a replacement, then carefully remove the boogered stud and insert the replacement. You're then back to good.
If I were to guess, those threads may be metric. 10mm (.393) is very close to 3/8 (.375). A common coarse thread is 1.5 per mm. 1.5mm thread pitch is 16.9 threads per inch. So that is very close to 3/8-16. There is no 3/8-18. Fine thread would be 3/8-24
That is what I am thinking that it is metric.
Time to pull out the metric tap & die set.
Dave ----
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