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Got myself a rebuilt steering box from Blue Top, installed it ... but had leaks at high pressure hose fittings. No problem, we had another go at it, tightened them up again. Still leaks. Hard to get a crow foot on there, really tight access.
So this 2nd time we pulled all the inner fender well stuff (battery, tray, coolant overflow, windshield washer reservoir, brackets) and even loosened the steering box from the frame for better clearance. We got them line wrench crow feet on there solid and tightened the fittings up good. Made sure there was no pelosi in there to cause a bad fitting. It still sweats power steering fluid from both fittings when running. See pic below.
I'm starting to think I should just buy two new power steering hoses. Anybody else BTDT?
Ya think? So I'd put some on the leaking threads, I can see that working great. But would a dollop around the backside of the flare have any pressure to seal up?
I had a battle like this with my little ranger. I even tried new hoses. Nothing worked. I finally figured it out, the power steering pump was right above the fittings and was dripping a little bit of fluid down onto the steering box fittings as it was running. Never could see the drip, but I replaced the pump and all is dry now.
I had a battle like this with my little ranger. I even tried new hoses. Nothing worked. I finally figured it out, the power steering pump was right above the fittings and was dripping a little bit of fluid down onto the steering box fittings as it was running. Never could see the drip, but I replaced the pump and all is dry now.
I wish that were the case. We cleaned it all up with brake clean first, started her up, and saw both fittings begin to weep ATF,
It's just a beveled soft copper washer that compensates for any irregularities between the two flared sealing surfaces. I'm pretty sure places like NAPA will have them available locally.
For flared connections, 100% of the sealing is between the very end of the tube and the matching machined surface. The threads only provide the clamping force, nothing more. Sealant on the threads won't really help, other than to prevent galling.
Are you positive you have flared connections? NumberDummy says they are O-ring connections, not flared.
ASNIP
For flared connections, 100% of the sealing is between the very end of the tube and the matching machined surface. The threads only provide the clamping force, nothing more. Sealant on the threads won't really help, other than to prevent galling.
So you're saying this. Seems logical. The old power steering box sockets sure look like flare fittings. Getting down in there to have a look will mean stripping the inner fender well again. Next weekend.
So you're saying this. Seems logical. The old power steering box sockets sure look like flare fittings. Getting down in there to have a look will mean stripping the inner fender well again. Next weekend.
Most flares I’m aware of in the automotive world (at least our age) are inverted flare (45 degree). AN has a 37 degree single flare that probably looks awful close but isn’t. I’d expect to box to have inverted flares but it may be worth a call to Blue Top if you’re not sure. Easy stuff first.
99% of the flare fitting leaks I have come across in automotive are due to the fittings not being tight enough. Get the flare nut wrench out and make sure they are actually tight. They have to be tight enough to deform the flare on the tube. Each time these style fo flare fittings are undone and reinstalled it has to be cinched down tighter to ensure a proper seal.
Each time these style fo flare fittings are undone and reinstalled it has to be cinched down tighter to ensure a proper seal.
Excellent point!
How about the threads on the flare nuts? Is there any damage or accumulated crud on those threads?
The threads previously inside the old gearbox would be clean, but any exposed threads may not be. Since you have to tighten the nuts a little further, you're driving previously exposed threads into the gearbox. That might be giving a false torque without properly compressing the flare.
Thanks guys for the good tips. I think we need to get straight line wrenches on there, not just crow foot line wrenches, and really crank them down. Yes, the threads are clean, we've leaked over a quart of Type F thru there while they were cracked loose or slightly off. We have to remove the rearward fitting to get a wrench on the forward one.
Here's what Ryan at Blue Top said:
Hello, those are indeed brass 45° flare fittings. We cut brand new surface on them so when the steel line is tightened it will make New depression to make the seal. If your lines have damage or a crack on the flare it can cause a leak. It will probably be a matter of new lines unless the brass seats are imprinted too much from trying to stop the leak.
Hello, those are indeed brass 45° flare fittings. We cut brand new surface on them...
That's a bingo! Could this be the problem?
Over my morning coffee, I got to wondering if the flare surfaces were reworked during the rebuild process. That means the flare nuts have to thread in deeper. Any chance the flare nut wrench flats are hitting the gearbox body? That would prevent the flared surfaces from clamping together properly.
You can damage the seats in the box by tightening them too much. Once that happens they are not going to seal. But what else do you do? You can tell if this has happened, the seat should look like a smooth cone. If it has a groove in the cone then it may never seal.
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