'55 divider bar to anti rattle insert config?
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Lancaster, So Carolina
'55 divider bar to anti rattle insert config?
Ok boys, time for a little break from the IFS Summit meetings...
Buttoning up for the wintah.
Im putting the divider bar in LAST (before side glass and regulator) but:
Maybe Im a bit out of install order with this. I got one door window prepped to push in the glass, but I have no picture (and of course I was not smart enough to take one)of the horiz anti rattles right at elbow level.
Do the ends at the divider bar fit outboard of the divider bar window channel or inside it? (or are they trimmed to butt up?)
At the other end of the anti rattles. do those curved tails go outboard or inboard of the rear side of the window channel?
I would assume if they go outboard, then prying the antirattles out and praying the clips dont fail is the only way??
Buttoning up for the wintah.
Im putting the divider bar in LAST (before side glass and regulator) but:
Maybe Im a bit out of install order with this. I got one door window prepped to push in the glass, but I have no picture (and of course I was not smart enough to take one)of the horiz anti rattles right at elbow level.
Do the ends at the divider bar fit outboard of the divider bar window channel or inside it? (or are they trimmed to butt up?)
At the other end of the anti rattles. do those curved tails go outboard or inboard of the rear side of the window channel?
I would assume if they go outboard, then prying the antirattles out and praying the clips dont fail is the only way??
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
Likes: 124
From: Iowa
Do the ends at the divider bar fit outboard of the divider bar window channel or inside it? (or are they trimmed to butt up?)
At the other end of the anti rattles. do those curved tails go outboard or inboard of the rear side of the window channel?
I would assume if they go outboard, then prying the antirattles out and praying the clips dont fail is the only way??
Cruiser
My stuff is aftermarket. Right at the divider bars, my fuzzies pretty much end. At the rear, the fuzzies go on the outside of the anti-rattle. I hope you have better luck than I and a few other here did. They are miserable to install without tearing out the rear most clips. If you learn anything, please don't forget to share it.
At the other end of the anti rattles. do those curved tails go outboard or inboard of the rear side of the window channel?
I would assume if they go outboard, then prying the antirattles out and praying the clips dont fail is the only way??
Cruiser
My stuff is aftermarket. Right at the divider bars, my fuzzies pretty much end. At the rear, the fuzzies go on the outside of the anti-rattle. I hope you have better luck than I and a few other here did. They are miserable to install without tearing out the rear most clips. If you learn anything, please don't forget to share it.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Western Shore of Virginia
Cruiser; Having installed those pieces recently,I recall having to remove the (aft most) clips,then installing new clips more to the end of the anti-rattle pieces.in order for them to align with the holes in the door. A small dab of grease on each helped with the install into the holes in the door. Also I used a 4"x1/4" piece of wood to help with pressure on the clip while not distorting the anti-rattle pieces. As Fenders said the (ends) go outside on the back end. and butt against the division bar in the front. I too used aftermarket pieces (D. Carpenter) Jim VA.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
Likes: 124
From: Iowa
"Having installed those pieces recently,I recall having to remove the (aft most) clips,then installing new clips more to the end of the anti-rattle pieces.in order for them to align with the holes in the door. A small dab of grease on each helped with the install into the holes in the door. Also I used a 4"x1/4" piece of wood to help with pressure on the clip while not distorting the anti-rattle pieces."
Jim
That's the part that can hang you up. I have bought a couple sets of the horizontal fuzzies. The rearmost clip always seems too close the the next clip. How did you move the clip in the backing of the fuzzy, without it pulling out easily during install? I'm going to try the grease tip next time.
Jim
That's the part that can hang you up. I have bought a couple sets of the horizontal fuzzies. The rearmost clip always seems too close the the next clip. How did you move the clip in the backing of the fuzzy, without it pulling out easily during install? I'm going to try the grease tip next time.
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Senior User
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From: Lancaster, So Carolina
Thanks guys.
I had the anti-rattles in before the division bar. Also bought the D Carpenter pieces. I remember no problems with that rear most clip ( WHere it 'hockey sticks" up) , but its clear they are 1/8 to 3/16 longer than where I want my division bar to land.
I have worked the ARs outside of the division bar channel with sets of taped up flathead screwdrivers (an attempt to keep from crunching the paint job
) , but it appears I only managed to separate the SS part and put that outboard, leaving the fuzz and metal fuzz backing inboard and too snug overall to run glass up the division bar channel.
Rather than risk chipping paint and ruining the ARs altogether, Im thinking of a) removing the vent assys (4th time), b) marking the ARs where they shoud be trimmed to butt up to the DB, c) takeing out DB top screws and taping it to hold it fwd. d) shimming out the AR away from the paint, then trimming with a Dremel bit. Comments?
I had the anti-rattles in before the division bar. Also bought the D Carpenter pieces. I remember no problems with that rear most clip ( WHere it 'hockey sticks" up) , but its clear they are 1/8 to 3/16 longer than where I want my division bar to land.
I have worked the ARs outside of the division bar channel with sets of taped up flathead screwdrivers (an attempt to keep from crunching the paint job
) , but it appears I only managed to separate the SS part and put that outboard, leaving the fuzz and metal fuzz backing inboard and too snug overall to run glass up the division bar channel. Rather than risk chipping paint and ruining the ARs altogether, Im thinking of a) removing the vent assys (4th time), b) marking the ARs where they shoud be trimmed to butt up to the DB, c) takeing out DB top screws and taping it to hold it fwd. d) shimming out the AR away from the paint, then trimming with a Dremel bit. Comments?
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
Likes: 124
From: Iowa
Cruiser
That's your best shot IMO. None of the ARs and fuzzies appear to be designed to be removed and then re-used. They are just too delicate. There are lots of tears on my garage floor from this phase of the operation. I'm afraid it's one of those things that requires experience. And the education is expensive in terms of destroyed parts. I have DC as well as lesser brand parts. Your windows are very likely going to be too tight until they wear in over time. There just isn't enough room in there for everything. I suppose it is so they will continue to seal after the break-in period. I'm afraid my power window motors are going to suffer reduced service life because of the close fit.
That's your best shot IMO. None of the ARs and fuzzies appear to be designed to be removed and then re-used. They are just too delicate. There are lots of tears on my garage floor from this phase of the operation. I'm afraid it's one of those things that requires experience. And the education is expensive in terms of destroyed parts. I have DC as well as lesser brand parts. Your windows are very likely going to be too tight until they wear in over time. There just isn't enough room in there for everything. I suppose it is so they will continue to seal after the break-in period. I'm afraid my power window motors are going to suffer reduced service life because of the close fit.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 150
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From: Western Shore of Virginia
Gentlemen: You can remove the rear most clip with a pair of surgical clamps or a small pair of needle nose pliers. However you WILL NOT be able to re-use the old clip as the tangs that protrude thru the molding are bent over to hold them in place. D/C has enough of them in a plastic bag when you order a set. They are cheep!!!.So when you re-install be sure to bend the tangs over. Also sometimes the tangs will not go thru because they hit the stainless,just move it ever so slightly. That will keep them from falling out . My clip was almost to the end of the molding when installed.about 7/16" from the origonal location. Jim VA.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Lancaster, So Carolina
All good feedback to the window origami mess we all must face.
Jim-since the rear of the ARs are sitting pretty, I'm going to try to prune the front to butt up to the DB.
I'll provide feedback to close the thread, however it will be quite a few weeks later b4 I can get back to the task.
I'll also take a stab at what order of assy may provide the best result, since that could be the key to window rebuild Nirvana
Jim-since the rear of the ARs are sitting pretty, I'm going to try to prune the front to butt up to the DB.
I'll provide feedback to close the thread, however it will be quite a few weeks later b4 I can get back to the task.
I'll also take a stab at what order of assy may provide the best result, since that could be the key to window rebuild Nirvana
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