So about two weeks ago the wife and I are on a trip up to Denver. I was going to pick up a small 4'x8' Uhaul and pull a bunch of deuce and a half parts back to San Angelo. Never got the chance

We drove up from San Angelo and stopped in Trinidad, then up the next morning to finish the drive to Denver. We got as far was Colorado Springs when the truck starts showing a light on the dash that says 'Check Gauge' which basically means CHECK YOUR OIL PRESSURE.

The only problem was that the light would go out as soon as I glanced over at the oil pressure, which is fine.

After three hours wasted at Phil Long Ford in CS, we were back on the road to my buddies place just outside Parker. We didn't make it. Four miles from his house, the Check Gauge comes on again and this time the oil pressure gauge doesn't show any pressure. I park it. Get a tow truck to take us to my buddies place, where it has sat for the past couple of weeks. It still has all it's oil, just not getting any pressure.

My buddy found a guy in Denver the specializes in Triton V8 and V10's. The long and short of it is I can have it towed to his shop and for approximately $5k he can pull it, rebuild it and put it back in for that price. I asked if I could get him to install a set of Banks headers and the 5 Star tuner I want to add. No problem.

As long as they don't have to machine any of the parts (crank, etc) - He always uses rebuilt heads, so those are stock. And as long as the crank is in good shape, no big deal.

Time frame is 3 weeks (unless machining had to be done - add another 3 weeks).

So, I'm seriously considering just biting the bullet and having it done.

Just thought I would see if there are any warnings when having the V-10 rebuilt - it's a 2 valve.

Any suggestions/warnings.

 

"as long as they dont have to machine any parts"

kind of a red flag to me since you lost oil pressure you most likely smoked some rod and crank bearings and I would think your engine rebuilder would know that means he almost certainly is going to be turing the crank and machinging the rods. turning the crank and maching rods is no big deal for a engine maching shop so it makes me think he "specilizes" in selling engine parts rather then a engine machine shop.

 

$5k can get you a decent V10 Ex in some places. Of course, you might be buying something that is ready to grenade in the next week... but V10s are pretty stout.

I guess it depends on what you can get to replace it vs. what you already have in it plus repairs. If it's otherwise very nice and you love it, rebuild. If you're lusting after something else, this may be the time to crunch numbers.

 

https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/d/...877216829.html


that is the company

Yes I could go with a Ford Crate engine for between $4500 - $5500 depending the source that sells them.

They build engines and specialize in Ford Triton V8 & V10

 

I didnt see a single machine in that shop, he doesnt build engines he assembles parts others shops are building, he may very well be good at it but he isnt building an engine he is assembling them.

 

Ask if they have a torque plate for a V10, if not they are not V10 experts.

Get a new V10 from Ford for a E350 van, and swap oil pans.

Or sell excursion to me for cheap.

 

I read your post twice and I seem to missing the part where the V-10 blew up. Did it actually make any unwanted engine noise or did it simply temporarily lose oil pressure then was quickly shut down? If it was quiet the whole time and the only odd conditions were the CHECK GAUGES light and no pressure on the dash gauge it might be a failed sending unit. Just curious as to what the exact conditions were and if it may be something a lot easier and cheaper than a rebuild or replacement engine.

 

I agree with WE3ZS. Might be worth a little investigation before committing to a blown motor scenario. If you shut it down fairly quickly it could be in fine, usable condition.

In these cold states, the engine will white with virtually no oil pressure for what seems like 20-30 seconds when it’s -20 with wind chills.

I hope its it’s a best case scenario for you!

Jasonodsky

 

I`m with Tom. I read it twice also and fail to see where it blew up! I would install a mechanical gauge and check the pressure with that.

BTW, how many miles are on it.

 

how many quarts are in the motor?

My 2000 would throw a CEL and had no oil pressure when low RPM during the drive home from me buying it. Scared the crap out of me. Thought I was going to need an oil pump for sure, if not an entire rebuild. And of course immediately after I got it.
In the end, it was 3 quarts of oil low. The dipstick showed level. But when I drained the oil to check for shavings I had <5 quarts in the drain pan. Refilled her to to specifications and the problem never happened again.


I recommend you check your oil. Ensure you have sufficient in there. And check the old oil for metal shavings.

 

I think most everybody here is on the same page in that letting somebody you don't know, and nobody that you know can vouch for, rebuild your V10 is a bad idea. Especially a deal that starts with "write and sign a blank check".

If further analysis shows that the engine is toast, get a motor from a known source that will honor the warranty when you're 1,000 miles away.

Rockauto lists long block V10s from $2,600 to $3,800.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ong+block,5240

At that price, I'd swap the motor if you need a motor.

And you could still get lucky and find that's no more than a sending unit....

 

I'M SORRY

Take a LARGE EMPTY METAL COFFEE CAN (do you remember what those were?)

add two hand fulls small rocks


SHAKE VIGOROUSLY - A LOT

that is what it sounds like when the engine is runnning

I didn't mean to leave that out - it is exactly what happens when you start it - and you can start it but I turn it off IMMEDIATELY so as not to cause more damage than necessary

That is why I KNOW it needs a rebuild - and its still full of oil

 

If the engine needs to be replaced find a reputable remanufacturer. When my 2000 Dodge Durango's Magnum 5.9L was cooked because of a blown hose I went with a Promar engine. After 2 years it has been fine. You will have to return the core. The price was about $2300

 

I also have a 1970 Kaiser Jeep deuce and a half that is up near Denver. I'm in the process of getting it transported down to San Angelo and was going up to Denver to gather up all the things that make it parade ready, put them in a 4' x 8' enclosed trailer and bring them down to San Angelo. THEN I've been looking on UShip to select a shipper to haul it down to San Angelo.

That is what I was doing up in Denver. That was the whole reason for the trip. It didn't turn out the way I had hoped.

And let me throw one out more little item

I'm getting ready to fly up to Denver for one day (I have to drive to Lubbock to do that) so I can sit in my dentist's chair while he performs three root canals on me tomorrow afternoon. As I always throw up on planes, I don't do this lightly, but it is the only way I can accomplish this - as you can see, I've got a lot on my plate - and thank God that I'm retired. But this will 'take it out of me' for about a week. Been there, done that. Only add flying up and back on the same day, and well it really will take it out of me - times three.

When this happened, I started my search for crate engines. Ford still makes them and USES the V10 to this day - F450/F550 and motor homes and other applications - so FORD still sell crate engines for the V10.

 

Sorry to hear about your Ex and the box of rocks inside there. Also wish you the best with the triple root canal.

I think we were all hoping to save you a rebuild till we heard about the rocks.

Sounds like you're rolling with the hiccups and formulating a plan. Sounds like a crate motor would be a good, known option. Consider posting for advice on the V10 forum. Lots of good info there that’s specific to the V10.

Keep us us posted on your progress and what you decide to do.