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New oil cooler already getting clogged?

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Old Mar 8, 2019 | 01:07 PM
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New oil cooler already getting clogged?

I had a competent shop that mostly does 6.0s install an oil cooler, egr delete etc... They flushed prior and put an ELC coolant in. A few weeks ago I replaced my water pump myself and also changed the coolant filter (they put a Mishimoto filter kit along with the OEM cooler). It was full of dark sludge and it surprised me since it has only been 8 months... then the other day I was pulling and noticed my EOT was staying around 225 sometimes over 230 while my ECT was staying around 190. Anyone have an experience like this? Backflush myself, call the shop...? I do plan to try a different monitor as I was using Torque Pro and not sure how accurate it is. I didn't add a custom PID using the equation I just found online, I just used one that was in there and giving me a reading.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2019 | 07:05 AM
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It is possible your new cooler is plugged, there is a good possibility the flush wasn't done properly. I know I bought the Wal Mart out of distilled water when I did it and it took many hours. The new cooler will act as a filter and catch junk. You could try back flushing it to see if that helps but with deltas like that you may be replacing the cooler again.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2019 | 09:15 AM
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I’m afraid of that. I know they didn’t remove the block drain plugs cause I had fumoto valves and asked if they could put them on. When I got it back the owner told me they don’t flush it by pulling the plugs when doing an oil cooler... doesn’t seem like it should be clogged in 8 months if flushed properly. The shop has a really good reputation and the owner always is always helpful and great with me.

Im considering back flushing myself today although I wish I had some restore/restore+ And could go through the whole process I’ve seen described.

Not sure I can reach anyone at the shop being a weekend to see what kind of warranty they might have on the work they did (dumb I didn’t ask when having it done).
 
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Old Mar 9, 2019 | 09:37 AM
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Deltas are very bad, "flush" appears to be botched (horribly)................backflush @ the cover above the cooler --- works about 50% of the time
 
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Old Mar 9, 2019 | 10:18 AM
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Was the oil cooler OEM?
 
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Old Mar 9, 2019 | 11:32 AM
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My opinion is that if they didn't remove the block plugs, then they didn't do a proper flush - and I'd be concerned about anything else that should have been done, but wasn't, like a proper Restore flush and possibly a Restore Plus.

As stated above, start out by doing a backflush on the oil cooler, then do a proper engine flush yourself, that way you know it was done right. Not a hard job, just time consuming. At least then you'll know where you stand
 
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Old Mar 9, 2019 | 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by T diesel
Was the oil cooler OEM?
The oil cooler was OEM.

I’m going to try and do a back flush today then this week get restore/restore+ and do that throughout the week.

I’ve read soaking with cascade or lime away directly through the plate opening then flushing really well or any other techniques that would be simple and chems purchased easily at a box store?

One concern I have is I don’t want to do anything the shop would argue that I voided any warranty (I’m hoping they say this falls under their 1 year warranty).
 
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Old Mar 9, 2019 | 01:07 PM
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Before doing anything yourself, talk to the shop. As others have stated, the flush was not done well.

If you are on your own, I would not use any chemicals yet. Several times I would try the backflush meyhod, even if that means pulling the waterpump during the process, which is what I would do. After doing a high volume basic water flush like srmastertech has a video on. But no chem work.....yet.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2019 | 01:11 PM
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Thanks, due to time I have today I think that would be able all I’d want to try anyway.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2019 | 01:26 PM
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If I back flush with tap water how could I rinse with distilled or is that necessary? I plan to just be going through the plate on the oil cooler. Just gravity feed a couple gallons through sufficient?
 
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Old Mar 9, 2019 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by chopsieze

The oil cooler was OEM.

I’m going to try and do a back flush today then this week get restore/restore+ and do that throughout the week.

I’ve read soaking with cascade or lime away directly through the plate opening then flushing really well or any other techniques that would be simple and chems purchased easily at a box store?

One concern I have is I don’t want to do anything the shop would argue that I voided any warranty (I’m hoping they say this falls under their 1 year warranty).

Where was the OEM oil cooler purchased? Sometimes I have seen internet businesses like Sinister call it an OEM oil cooler, but it really wasn't.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2019 | 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by chopsieze
If I back flush with tap water how could I rinse with distilled or is that necessary? I plan to just be going through the plate on the oil cooler. Just gravity feed a couple gallons through sufficient?
No, it needs pressure to dislodge particles trapped at the inlet.

There are posting at all sites for the method, but it takes mechanical skill.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2019 | 04:56 PM
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So I have an IPR EGR delete so I must not be able to get to that cap. Is there any other decent method to do some kind of a back flush?
 
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Old Mar 9, 2019 | 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
No, it needs pressure to dislodge particles trapped at the inlet.

There are posting at all sites for the method, but it takes mechanical skill.
yeah, I was going to use pressure to flush with tap but was wondering how can I rinse all the tap water out with distilled?

At at this point I’m trying figure out how I can even back flush with that IPR delete on there.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2019 | 05:45 PM
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Would it be worth trying to back flush through the intake? I realized I have a gen2 IPR delete. There’s a nipple coming right off the intake above the egr but I read you can’t back flush. I guess I quit worrying about it till I talk to the the shop.
 
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