changed out my glow plugs today and just a run of the mill oil change but did switch to T6 5w-40 syn and all the truck has ever known is 15w-40 dino. Also new GP relay, all new uvch’s, and torqued down the injector hold downs to 120 in-lb and rockers to 20 ft-lb.

everything went really well...I had a buddy helping and from start to finish had it all done in just a hair over 4 hours with a few beers and a sandwich along the way...fired right up, drove great home about 15 miles from his garage...it was raining so I didn’t really stomp on it but all the numbers I monitor in forscan looked good...

Tonight I ran out to pick up dinner and decided to hit it WOT on the empty “highway” ... you know....just wanted to make sure I tightened all the cac boots good enough and didn’t have a boost leak...everything was good/normal, then right around 60/65 with boost at about 15psi I had a sudden loss of power...dash lit up like a Christmas tree...SES, water in fuel, hell I think even the WTS light flashed...it did not die, just seriously defueled but only for about 1-2seconds and then as my foot came off the go pedal it was back to normal, I did a little wtf freak out and then gave it some gas and it was like nothing happened...made it to the store, came out started fine, drove fine, then just normal cruising about 70 on said highway on the way home and boom it did it again, same exact thing...maybe a touch longer but not much...and same reaction, let off the go pedal, back to normal...I even punched it a few times as I got close to home seeing if I could recreate it but it was fine...


So what did I screw up?

The only dtc I have in forscan is for the batteries being disconnected that I hadn’t cleared out...

I agree...it’s highly likely it’s related...

I checked the 42 pin and it was good and snug, is there a torque spec for it? I didn’t want to go crazy on it as it’s just a plastic harness...

the 9 pin connecters also checked out and were seated correctly...I inspected the pigtails earlier today too and didn’t find any signs of chaffing.

I did have a thought though...what if it was my OBD adapter/forscan? I just spent another 1/2 hour after dinner and checking those connections and I was really on it multiple WOT pulls on the highway all through 4th gear and it ran better than it’s run since I got it (a testament to the oil I believe. Maybe the torque specs) but I had removed my OBD dongle after the 2nd time it happened...I had actually had something similar (though resulted in a complete engine kill, pull over, freak out, restart) happen when I was trying to use the iOS “torque pro” like app to monitor gauges and needless to say it DID NOT like my truck or the PIDs I was manually entering...I’ve had no issues ever in months of using FORScan, but the lack of DTC’s is interesting to say the least


EDIT...I will inspect the fuses tomorrow...its pouring again.

I will admit I’m guilty of never really taking it out...the truck doesn’t sit so no worry of battery drain...and not really the area you have to worry about hackers with computers reprogramming your locks and jacking your truck/stuff.

I have (I hope) one of the OBDlink mx+’s sitting under the tree so this old Chinese knock off is out for good unless I can recreate the issue again without it.

All the fuses checked out and it hasn’t happened again since I removed the old OBD dongle...gonna hopefully chalk this one up to that as the cause...running great otherwise and started below 30* for the first time since I owned it without being plugged in on the first crank!

It could very well be the CPS. Mine was one it the ones that had an issue with the wipers but only when they were in the intermediate position. For $25 it’s an easy swap and it’s a good idea to keep a spare in the glove box anyway. This is one sensor you want to only use OEM for. There are probably more failed aftermarket ones than good ones.

Did you hear a loud bang or pop and have a browning of the paints when you had your sudden wtf moment? Check your car boots if one came undone it will cause the truck to go as you described power wise, another possibly but not as wtf causing is the IPR tin nut backing out, is it loose? Do you also have good fuel pressure? If not it can start to behave similar to what you described, I would lean towards electrical for the lights however.