Well, I haven't been on here in a while. I had my 96 extended cab in the body shop over the last six months to have it completely redone. All new paint and no rust and dents. It has 184K on it and I've already had the small problems pop up over the years -
-#22 maxi fuse and fuel heater fix
-rebuilt the IPR valve and replaced fuel cannister (had a small crack)
-ICP sensor in the cylinder head

but this time has me stumped. It was plugged up all night (22 degrees) last week and went out to fire it up. It came to life and was idling perfectly but within 5 minutes I heard the idle get weird and it was sounding like it was losing power on a few cylinders. I jumped in it to tap the pedal and it died! It would not fire up. I drained the fuel bowl (it was full) and replaced the filter with a new one I had. It will not fire to life. Went to replace the CPS because I noticed that the tach needle wasn't moving while cranking, and the 10mm bolt was rounded off so that took a little bit of work to finally get out, but I did after removing fan/clutch and shroud and tapping a bolt extractor socket on it. Installed the new CPS but still want fire. Someone give a direction to go in because I'm lost on this one. Can I ohm the old and new CPS?
One question - can the lift pump be bad but still pump some fuel into the bowl? Should it fill the bowl quickly or does it take minutes? When it died, to me it sounded like a fuel starving problem because it didn't just shut down fast like an electrical situation would. I also installed a new rear fuel tank while in the shop. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

 

first thing i would do is check the fuel pressure at the fuel bowl while cranking. If its below 50ish switch tanks and try again. And look at the little screen in the side of the fuel bowl housing.

 

Try this;

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byb...1qRU1VVGc/view

 

 

 

Ok guys. The 7.3 is back and running fine. In the beginning when it died on me that morning I did check the tach movement and I had none. That's why I assumed CPS and replaced with a new one. Afterwards, I had tach movement but it still wouldn't fire up. I followed the repair sheet and cleaned the FPR screen. When I got to it , just looking at it from outside at the hole the screen looked clean. I removed the fuel filter and the bowl was only half full from all the cranking I've done. When I got the screen out the back side of it was caked up and black so I did a good cleaning, wiping out the hole good too from inside the bowl and reinstalled it. Tried to crank several times and when I was just about ready to give up and just replace the lift pump, the old bitch fired right up. I believe maybe I got air into the system when I replaced the fuel filter last week and but not putting any miles on the truck in about a year everything just happened at once. I've attached some pics of the great body work I had done at Pete's Body Shop, Creedmoor, NC.

 

Glad you got the truck running my man. And shes a buty nicely build.

 

Absolutely beautiful truck. If mine looked like that I'd be afraid to drive it. Glad you got the engine problem sorted out.

 

Well, I'm back. Two weeks later I went to warm it up and after 5 minutes she died just like before. I was like - damn. Pulled the regulator loose to check the screen again and it had some debris on it but nothing to create a shut down like that. I pulled the entire fuel bowl out and lift pump to inspect. I rebuilt the fuel bowl several years ago but went ahead and did it again. The weep hole in the back of the lift pump did show signs of dripping so I got a new one. While I had all that out I pulled the IPR valve and the small oring fell out into the valley so I rebuilt that, replaced the ICP sensor as well. I hate fuel leaks so I replaced all the fuel bowl to pump hoses with the new blue kit. OK, time to mount everything. Got the pump on and wanted to check to see if the pump would pull fuel from the tanks up to the top - had the IN hose on with the banjo bolt tightened up but the other two not connected. I cranked and cranked but got no fuel up to the pump. Went on and mounted the fuel bowl and tightened everything down, filled the fuel bowl full with diesel and went to start. It finally fired up but when the bowl emptied the truck shut down. Damn? While my truck was in the body shop for 6 months I had the rear tank and sender replaced but it never got drove because both batteries were dead. I feel my problem is debris up into the tank selector valve. The switch in the dash works fine showing both tanks at 3/4 because I filled both tanks when I got it back and have drove it - maybe 75 miles. I've got a new selector on order and I'm gonna pull the old one and while the lines are loose I'm gonna install a cheap electric pump to each tank feed line and pull fuel up and out to clear. As anyone run into this problem before? I've owned (3) 7.3's in the last 25 years and have never had a fuel problem like this but it never sit and not driven for 6 months either. Any help on the selector or advise I need to know?

 

Selector valve can get hanged up with debris if shower head breaks
If you have a pin hole in the suction line, you wont prime the pump fast causing hard starts
FPR screen removes air from bowl

Use a vacuum pump on the fuel line with long clear hose and see if it sucks fuel with no bubbles
if its slow hook up an air line to blow out the line with tank cap off

can bypass the valve with some fitting and hoses to test

or urn two lines to a jerry can from fuel pump to test if everything up front is ok

 

I like the vacuum pump idea, how do I hook it up? if I'm understanding my fuel lines correctly the (2) metal lines in the right of the valley are feed and return; the feed hooks to the right port on top of the lift pump and the return is to the top rear of the FPR (45 degree bend). The (2) metal lines on the frame before the selector valve is the feed and return and rubber hose is clamped to them going into the selector valve. Can I rig up the jerry can idea here? Thanks for the helpful input already.

 

When I had this problem I used a air compressor hose, stuffed a rag around it and pressured the tank. All the fitting on the selector are marked what they are.

 

@Hit Man X @Jarrett Campbell Just wow, this thing is beautiful.

OP, I am pretty you can rig up the jerry can. I know it's been done before. That would rule out anything up top.

 

:hearteyes: I hope to have a half decent respray someday.