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When I lost the keys to my truck, I had to replace the lock in the latch of my toolbox... the one that's built into the bed of my truck.
I really like the idea of having a toolbox there, I think it's truly one of Ford's "Better Ideas".
I was able to pick the lock with some borrowed lock picks. That saved me a bunch of cash, since I didn't have to call the locksmith out on a service call. Picking the lock itself was a little tedious. I sprayed it with some Tri-Flo to lubricate the internal parts of the lock, hoping it would make it easier. I spent about 45 minutes trying to "unlock" it by turning the tumbler in the wrong direction. Once I started trying to turn it in the correct direction, it only took about 7 or 8 minutes. If I had to survive on my lock-picking abilities, I'd probably starve to death.
Once the toolbox door was open, I sprayed some penetrating oil on the four nuts that hold the latch in place. The nuts came off easy and I took the latch to the locksmith.
I discovered at the locksmith's store that he could either sell me a new cylinder assembly for $8 or he could fit two new keys for the original cylinder for $24.
Taking the old cylinder out wasn't particularly difficult. Access to the cylinder was gained after removing the Hair Pin Cotter Pin from the Clevis Pin, removing the Clevis Pin and disengaging the latch parts. I removed the one screw holding the tab to the tumbler. There was a nut locker that I had to unlock before I could remove nut holding the main cylinder body. Even with the retaining nut removed, the main cylinder body didn't want to come out... I had to pound on it with a hammer. An over-sized socket was used as an anvil, supporting the latch while the cylinder dropped into the center of the socket.
Here's the instruction sheet for the replacement:
I've circled the parts that I used and X-ed out the parts that were surplus.
The long tab that catches in the latch plate was too long and had to be cut to fit. I used the old one as a guide and trimmed the new one down with a Dremmell tool and a cut-off wheel. The rough edges were filed down.
No other parts needed modification.
I found that the parts in the new cylinder are not quite the same as the parts in the old cylinder. There is no "interoperability" between the old and the new. For example, I wasn't able to use the old tab with the new cylinder... the square holes were a slightly different size (probably an 'inch vs. metric' conflict).
Once the cylinder was correctly installed, I re-assembled the latch and mounted it back in the door of the toolbox.
When I lost the keys to my truck, I had to replace the lock in the latch of my toolbox... the one that's built into the bed of my truck.
I really like the idea of having a toolbox there, I think it's truly one of Ford's "Better Ideas".
I was able to pick the lock with some borrowed lock picks. That saved me a bunch of cash, since I didn't have to call the locksmith out on a service call. Picking the lock itself was a little tedious. I sprayed it with some Tri-Flo to lubricate the internal parts of the lock, hoping it would make it easier. I spent about 45 minutes trying to "unlock" it by turning the tumbler in the wrong direction. Once I started trying to turn it in the correct direction, it only took about 7 or 8 minutes. If I had to survive on my lock-picking abilities, I'd probably starve to death.
Once the toolbox door was open, I sprayed some penetrating oil on the four nuts that hold the latch in place. The nuts came off easy and I took the latch to the locksmith.
I discovered at the locksmith's store that he could either sell me a new cylinder assembly for $8 or he could fit two new keys for the original cylinder for $24.
Taking the old cylinder out wasn't particularly difficult. Access to the cylinder was gained after removing the Hair Pin Cotter Pin from the Clevis Pin, removing the Clevis Pin and disengaging the latch parts. I removed the one screw holding the tab to the tumbler. There was a nut locker that I had to unlock before I could remove nut holding the main cylinder body. Even with the retaining nut removed, the main cylinder body didn't want to come out... I had to pound on it with a hammer. An over-sized socket was used as an anvil, supporting the latch while the cylinder dropped into the center of the socket.
Here's the instruction sheet for the replacement:
I've circled the parts that I used and X-ed out the parts that were surplus.
The long tab that catches in the latch plate was too long and had to be cut to fit. I used the old one as a guide and trimmed the new one down with a Dremmell tool and a cut-off wheel. The rough edges were filed down.
No other parts needed modification.
I found that the parts in the new cylinder are not quite the same as the parts in the old cylinder. There is no "interoperability" between the old and the new. For example, I wasn't able to use the old tab with the new cylinder... the square holes were a slightly different size (probably an 'inch vs. metric' conflict).
Once the cylinder was correctly installed, I re-assembled the latch and mounted it back in the door of the toolbox.
It's nice to have a locking toolbox again
I like the idea too except the engineering is **** poor. The bottom where the plastic " box " mounts in the bed side is very lame. They should have reinforced this as it rusts out rapidly.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
