1946 1 ton rebuild help
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1946 1 ton rebuild help
Hello everyone. I'm looking to rebuild my tonner into a resto mod. I'm starting out by ripping it down to the frame and I want to put a solid suspension on it and don't really know where to start. With tires and rims, to the engine it's self. I want to stuff as much HP under the hood as well. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Rob
Thanks
Rob
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Orcas Island Wa.
I would think a tonner with it's 8' bed and 122" wheelbase would make a good high horsepower resto-mod. The frame is way more beefy than the half tons most folks start with and it wouldn't be so squirrely when you stomp on it. Also longer wheelbases are way better for towing if you ever do that. Pickup or flatbed? There are folks here that might want those oddball axles and 17" split rims and any decent tires, not to mention a flatty and the tranny that goes with it. Any pictures?
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Thanks for the info. I know I will be picking everyone's brains on this one, its my first build ever. I am selling the flathead V8 along with any other parts anyone's looking for. The motor has no cracks that I can see but is in rough shape.
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I did a rebuild on a 1940 one ton. I used a ford 302 from 68 mustang and a c4. you can buy water pump front engine mounts from speedway $40.00 if you don't want to cut on the frame. I also used a reverse oil sump and pickup to clear the crossmember. this allows you to use the original flathead mounts with long bolts and about 1.5 inch stacked washers. This config also means the trans mounting bolts align exactly, so no mods needed there, which is a big job avoided. you will also need a block off plate for fuel pump and get a low psi fuel pump for carb engine or go with higher pressure for injected... otheer items needed....
a three groove main crank pulley, 2 groove water pump pulley, relocate alternator kit/brackets from march to top passenger side head mount. An a/c bracket from ft. worth firm alan grove components..also mounts to front driver side heads. I have no power steering pump. kept it manual.
today you can get an electric ps rack setup, saves space but more costly. This truck runs well, but its over 6,000 lbs, so unless you put in a race engine, it will never be fast.. so be realistic about cost....
a three groove main crank pulley, 2 groove water pump pulley, relocate alternator kit/brackets from march to top passenger side head mount. An a/c bracket from ft. worth firm alan grove components..also mounts to front driver side heads. I have no power steering pump. kept it manual.
today you can get an electric ps rack setup, saves space but more costly. This truck runs well, but its over 6,000 lbs, so unless you put in a race engine, it will never be fast.. so be realistic about cost....
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Orcas Island Wa.
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Thanks guys, I did get this from North Dakota and so far I can't complain. I will take all the advice I can get. I would like to use the same motor mounts to save time and effort so I will seriously look int to it.
Thanks again
Robert
P. S. I will put more picks up as we progress.
Thanks again
Robert
P. S. I will put more picks up as we progress.
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From: Vancouver Island
Awesome truck! Looks like this will be a cool build. Any idea on how much hp/tq you looking for? I have a 400BB with a turbo 400 in my panel and. 302 boss with a 400 in the 47pickup. The BB is tight on the exhaust side but fits height wise even with a High rise tunnel Ram. Can't wait to see more progress
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correction to earlier post - If you buy the engine mounts for (302 v8) from speedway, they bolt onto the front heads of the 302, not water pump- they mount to the frame perfectly on the centers of the old flathead locations. you will need rubber biscuit mounts and long bolts. also about a dozen thick washers to increase the height. also remember to get a reverse sump oil pan and pickup for frame clearance if needed. there are fuel injected high perf versions of 302s out there, so the choices are great if you stick with this design.
for suspension - fyi fact - the wheel base of a 1940 one ton is exactly the same as a modern f150 at 122 inches. as a coincidence... my rubber flex .brake line replacements were identical to a modern f350... My guess is that if you find any f150 122in wheelbase system it will probably work.
if you choose to rebuild the hydraulic shock absorbers, there is a guy in NY - "apple shocks/rebuilding" some name like that. he does good work.
for suspension - fyi fact - the wheel base of a 1940 one ton is exactly the same as a modern f150 at 122 inches. as a coincidence... my rubber flex .brake line replacements were identical to a modern f350... My guess is that if you find any f150 122in wheelbase system it will probably work.
if you choose to rebuild the hydraulic shock absorbers, there is a guy in NY - "apple shocks/rebuilding" some name like that. he does good work.
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Black Hills of SD
I'm kind of a minimalist on some things, only change things that are worn out or safety related and I like patina trucks. I would find a late 50s-early 60s 1/2 ton and use the axles, convert to front disc brakes if you city drive, maybe sent the axle off for a 2-3" drop. And run some stock looking wheels with dog dish hub caps. 9 inch or 8.8 rear. 8.8 are easy to find with limited slip already in them for cheap.
Juice up the 302, or find a late one from an Exploder or Mountaineer with the roller cam and GT40P heads. If you don't want efi and switch over to carb, don't forget to change the distributor gear. C4 would be the cheapest but an AOD with lockup would be nice too. Forget the C6, while tough the parasitic drain from one is a sacrifice no small block needs to make.
If you go bigger than a 302, might as well go right to a 429/460 because a 351 will use just as much gas and give a lot less torque in return. I think the first year for hard valve seats is 72 in most cases although not true on a 300-6. Save a lot of money and get an engine new enough to have them.
Juice up the 302, or find a late one from an Exploder or Mountaineer with the roller cam and GT40P heads. If you don't want efi and switch over to carb, don't forget to change the distributor gear. C4 would be the cheapest but an AOD with lockup would be nice too. Forget the C6, while tough the parasitic drain from one is a sacrifice no small block needs to make.
If you go bigger than a 302, might as well go right to a 429/460 because a 351 will use just as much gas and give a lot less torque in return. I think the first year for hard valve seats is 72 in most cases although not true on a 300-6. Save a lot of money and get an engine new enough to have them.
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Thanks for all the help. My build is coming together in my head and I have started to move forward with everything. I picked the Mustang II coil overs with a 2" drop in the front and the same for the back. I will have them in later this week. here is an updated pic. Next I'm talking to Phoenix engines to put a monster under the hood. I'm looking at a Winsor 302 or a 351. If any one has any suggestions please let me know. I do use them. And I don't Know how to rotate the Pics Sorry