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got Offenhauser 6019DP today, have questions

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Old May 10, 2017 | 07:42 PM
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got Offenhauser 6019DP today, have questions

Got the 6019DP manifold today from Jegs. A little disappointed in the finish work but I can make it work. I think I read here somewhere that the carb primaries go to the inboard side of the engine in order to feed the lower ports of the manifold, Correct? Also, there is cast into the bottom side of the manifold "Not for use with water plate". I am using EFI exhaust manifolds and was planing on making a water plate to heat the lower ports of the manifold. Is there some reason that I shouldn't? The sticky above makes a lot of good points about why you should make a plate when using EFI manifolds. Thanks for any help you guys can give.
 
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Old May 10, 2017 | 08:00 PM
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Hello!

It says that on the bottom? How bizarre. (Would you mind snapping a picture of it?)

I am curious why it would say that, since almost everyone goes that route, and I've never heard of anyone having any problems with it.

Otherwise, the primaries will go toward the engine (pointing toward the runners) and the secondaries will point away. The primaries will feed down the smaller top ports and the secondaries down into into the lower, larger ports.
 
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Old May 10, 2017 | 08:34 PM
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I'll try to post a pic tomorrow if I can get a little help from my wife. I suffer from "Old fart syndrome" and am not to good with this computer thing. On this manifold the primary carb ports (nearest the valve cover) do go down to the smaller ports, but they are at the bottom of the runners as pictured on the Summit web sight.
 
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Old May 10, 2017 | 09:51 PM
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Oops, I said that backwards. The primaries run along the smaller bottom passages (the smaller passages increase velocity and then torque), and the secondaries run through the larger upper passages for increased flow. (Got the top/bottom mixed up)

Either way though, the primaries go toward the engine/valve cover/runners.
 
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Old May 10, 2017 | 10:02 PM
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Try it without the water plate. You may be surprised. I was
 
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Old May 11, 2017 | 06:12 AM
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OK here is a pic. It's not real clear. Hope you can see it. I found a site at Offenhauser.co said that some manifolds made before 2015 may have porosity in the heat box area that may let coolant into the runners and to test those manifolds you can turn the manifold upside down and pour water into the heat box area and let it set to see if it leak trough. I did that overnight and it's OK.
 
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Old May 11, 2017 | 06:21 AM
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Boy these things are hard to get. I've seen here on this forum that people were haveing a hard time getting these and I gave up on Summit as they just keep postponing the shipping date and last Friday I found one at JEGS. They said they had 4. Ordered mine immediately and apparently so did 3 other people now they have a shipping date of Sep of this year. Wonder why there has been such a run on these?
 
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Old May 11, 2017 | 09:56 AM
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In an attempt to help any and all, see if these [1 DP and 1 open style] are still available? They are listed on another forum.

https://fordsix.com/viewtopic.php?f=87&t=76722

https://fordsix.com/viewtopic.php?f=87&t=76701
 
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Old May 11, 2017 | 11:21 AM
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Thanks for the pic. I know mine definitely doesn't have that. How interesting.

That'd make sense on the porosity, but that just seems strange to me that it could be so porous that it would soak through 1/4" of aluminum.
 
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Old May 11, 2017 | 09:31 PM
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I have read about there being a soak issue somewhere. I wonder if it is Chinese aluminum. You could, of course, get a refund and buy a Clifford intake.
 
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Old May 12, 2017 | 06:07 AM
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Originally Posted by F-250 restorer
I have read about there being a soak issue somewhere. I wonder if it is Chinese aluminum. You could, of course, get a refund and buy a Clifford intake.
I suspect that it is Chinese as it was wrapped in Chinese news paper and it was in that poor quality light brown cardboard box. Really thought about a Cilfford intake but like the concept of the duel port for what I going to be doing with this truck.
 
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Old May 12, 2017 | 07:48 AM
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What about coating the inner heat plate area with a sealer, eliminating the possibility of such a thing happening?
Do you all think that RTV would adhere properly to the aluminum and not eventually peel off, clogging things up?
Any other suggestions for a proper coolant barrier?
 
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Old May 12, 2017 | 10:18 AM
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Well, like I said mine tested ok. They said the problem was with some of the ones made before 2005 and mine has a date of 3 24 17. Should be no problem. But I think that when I make my water plate I will pressure test it using the holes that I will drill and tap in the plate. Bolt the plate to the manifold with a gasket in place and put a pressure gauge in one hole and a air fitting in the other. If it doesn't pass then I will send it back. But like I said I gravity tested it by just turning it upside down and filling it with water and it didn't leak overnight so I think it is OK. That notice of "not for use with water plate" may have be left over from when they were having problem.
 
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Old May 12, 2017 | 12:51 PM
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Keep in mind there is no pressure when hooked to the heating line, but I understand why you're doing it.

You might want to do a search and see what the other guys did with their DP.
 
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Old May 12, 2017 | 02:36 PM
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Someone's probably cracked and hydrolocked their engine...
 
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