77 Ford 300 i6 engine rebuild.
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77 Ford 300 i6 engine rebuild.
Hey y'all, I just bought my first truck... A 1977 Ford f100 custom. I bought it knowing the rings where bad last week. Well today it completely gave out with not enough compression to start... Anyway I'm planning to rebuild the engine. Is there anybody who could kinda walk me through the process? And what are the best rebuild kits? Any tips or tricks or anything I need to know? What would be some good performance mods to do while I have the engine apart? What are the best parts for the money? How hard is this to do? It has 120,00 miles on it which kinda surprised me that the engine would have gone out already..I've read a lot about these engines and people say that they die around 300,000. .....Anyway sorry for the dumb newbie questions...
Thanks y'all this form is awesome.
Thanks y'all this form is awesome.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Welcome To FTE
Like a lot of complex technical things, it's always 90% preparation and only 10% doing the actual task. That means doing your homework. Get the Ford shop manual for your truck for general big picture removal and disassembly.
Lots of aftermarket books published by the hot rod press on rebuilding engines, find one for yours. The best tips and advice often revolve as much around stuff not to do, things to avoid. That alone will save you time and money and aggravation. Some of the tools needed you may want to rent. A lot of the parts can't be ordered until you can get in there and see what's what and measure. If you get up to speed using the resources at your disposal, you can definitely perform a first class rebuild your first time.
Like a lot of complex technical things, it's always 90% preparation and only 10% doing the actual task. That means doing your homework. Get the Ford shop manual for your truck for general big picture removal and disassembly.
Lots of aftermarket books published by the hot rod press on rebuilding engines, find one for yours. The best tips and advice often revolve as much around stuff not to do, things to avoid. That alone will save you time and money and aggravation. Some of the tools needed you may want to rent. A lot of the parts can't be ordered until you can get in there and see what's what and measure. If you get up to speed using the resources at your disposal, you can definitely perform a first class rebuild your first time.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,188
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From: Near Los Angeles
A 1977 with 120k miles? Forty years old, with 10k miles per year, is 400k miles.
On the forum we get your questions about once every couple of months. The best thing you can do is begin to search and copy/paste into a file. There is much info out there. You just have to find it. Good luck.
On the forum we get your questions about once every couple of months. The best thing you can do is begin to search and copy/paste into a file. There is much info out there. You just have to find it. Good luck.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Spokane, WA
Read, re-read, take notes, make a plan, work the plan. Include this site in your reading and note taking: https://fordsix.com/index.php?sid=38...f157e3cb29aad0
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Problem is, do you know (for example) right now what size pistons are in there? Stock, or .020" over .. 030" over? Block will need cleaning up and honing, and then see if the pistons are OK to reuse. Crank will need to be cleaned up, checked for cracks/inspected. Maybe polished up, then maybe (oversized) bearing size determined. A machine shop will be doing some of the cleanup and inspection, you'll want to talk with them about parts and what they recommend too. Don't order anything till it's apart and everything checked out.
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I have no idea but I would imagine it's stock... Considering it needs rings and only 120,00 I guess it's the original Pistons..
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2012
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From: Mims, FL
You would still be better to take it apart, inspect, and measure before ordering a rebuild kit. The little bit of delay is much better than guessing and having to return it. Even if the pistons are OK to reuse, maybe the crank needs to go under .010. Who knows until you and/or the machine shop look at it.
IMHO, YMMV, etc...........
IMHO, YMMV, etc...........
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,061
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From: Mims, FL
Opinions vary, but it depends on your setup. If you're going to use a stock intake manifold, then either the stock Carter YFA 1 barrel, or a 1 to 2 adapter and run a 2100 or 2150. If you find an Offy C or DP, or Clifford, then still the 2100 or 2150 is a good choice for basically stock setup, or go to a small 4 barrel about 450 cfm or so.
Unless you're camming it, freeing up the exhaust, and other engine work, you won't get much benefit going too big. That's why I think the Motorcraft 2 bbl 2100 or 2150 carbs are good for this application. They come in different sizes labeled by opening size. I don't know all of them off the top of my head, but IIRC top is about 1.14 to small about 1.00. I know they make a 1.08.
Unless you're camming it, freeing up the exhaust, and other engine work, you won't get much benefit going too big. That's why I think the Motorcraft 2 bbl 2100 or 2150 carbs are good for this application. They come in different sizes labeled by opening size. I don't know all of them off the top of my head, but IIRC top is about 1.14 to small about 1.00. I know they make a 1.08.
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 367
Likes: 2
From: summerfield florida
Good Carb Choice
Opinions vary, but it depends on your setup. If you're going to use a stock intake manifold, then either the stock Carter YFA 1 barrel, or a 1 to 2 adapter and run a 2100 or 2150. If you find an Offy C or DP, or Clifford, then still the 2100 or 2150 is a good choice for basically stock setup, or go to a small 4 barrel about 450 cfm or so.
Unless you're camming it, freeing up the exhaust, and other engine work, you won't get much benefit going too big. That's why I think the Motorcraft 2 bbl 2100 or 2150 carbs are good for this application. They come in different sizes labeled by opening size. I don't know all of them off the top of my head, but IIRC top is about 1.14 to small about 1.00. I know they make a 1.08.
Unless you're camming it, freeing up the exhaust, and other engine work, you won't get much benefit going too big. That's why I think the Motorcraft 2 bbl 2100 or 2150 carbs are good for this application. They come in different sizes labeled by opening size. I don't know all of them off the top of my head, but IIRC top is about 1.14 to small about 1.00. I know they make a 1.08.
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New User
Joined: Apr 2017
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Opinions vary, but it depends on your setup. If you're going to use a stock intake manifold, then either the stock Carter YFA 1 barrel, or a 1 to 2 adapter and run a 2100 or 2150. If you find an Offy C or DP, or Clifford, then still the 2100 or 2150 is a good choice for basically stock setup, or go to a small 4 barrel about 450 cfm or so.
Unless you're camming it, freeing up the exhaust, and other engine work, you won't get much benefit going too big. That's why I think the Motorcraft 2 bbl 2100 or 2150 carbs are good for this application. They come in different sizes labeled by opening size. I don't know all of them off the top of my head, but IIRC top is about 1.14 to small about 1.00. I know they make a 1.08.
Unless you're camming it, freeing up the exhaust, and other engine work, you won't get much benefit going too big. That's why I think the Motorcraft 2 bbl 2100 or 2150 carbs are good for this application. They come in different sizes labeled by opening size. I don't know all of them off the top of my head, but IIRC top is about 1.14 to small about 1.00. I know they make a 1.08.
Thanks y'all.
I was going to put a glasspack on it. Does that free up the exhaust any? And what would be a good cam to put in when I rebuild it?