Rear brake question

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Feb 8, 2017 | 04:23 PM

RBerry9511

Thread Starter

Tuned

Joined: Feb 2013

Posts: 434

Likes: 7

From: Hemet

Rear brake question

Ok I am having trouble removing the passenger side rear brake rotor on my 2000 limited 7.3l 4x4. The rotor seems loose but the emergency brake seems to be holding it on. The e brake is off and I was wondering if anyone knows if I have to adjust the adjustment screw in the back of the hub up or down to release it? This brake job is becoming a real PITA. Thanks for any and all help in advance.

Feb 9, 2017 | 02:24 AM

andym

Post Fiend

Joined: Mar 2002

Posts: 19,402

Likes: 38

From: Bonita Springs FL

If you're still stuck on this, yes if there's a slot in the backing plate to adjust the e-brake shoes you can back them off that way. I can't remember at the moment if there is or not on this truck. Otherwise you're probably going to have to pry or pull them off forcefully. That usually destroys the shoes, as you may have already found out by now.

Feb 10, 2017 | 03:22 AM

RBerry9511

Thread Starter

Tuned

Joined: Feb 2013

Posts: 434

Likes: 7

From: Hemet

Quote:

Originally Posted by andym

Well after many failed attempts I called a local mom and pop brake shop and they did the passenger side rotor removal and brake install for $54. The owner/mechanic owns an Excursion and it is a7.3l but a 2 wheel drive. Looks pretty clean. I told him about this forum so hopefully we might have another member. I would like to think if my knee wasn't messed up that I would have been able to finish the brake job but I might be kidding myself. I will ask tomorrow what it took to get the rotor off.

Feb 11, 2017 | 03:43 AM

RBerry9511

Thread Starter

Tuned

Joined: Feb 2013

Posts: 434

Likes: 7

From: Hemet

Quote:

Originally Posted by RBerry9511

ok I picked up my excursion from the shop this morning. He had to break the rotor in 2 to get it off the truck. Not sure how but I don't feel so bad now. Also the brakes are amazingly better. I didn't think it would make that much of a difference. Now to do shocks and steering dampener done. Thanks for all the help.

Feb 11, 2017 | 01:00 PM

hasteranger

Lead Driver

Joined: Mar 2010

Posts: 5,250

Likes: 11

From: West Virginia

I've had to split several to get them off. No big deal if you have a replacement. They are cast so they aren't hard, especially if it's below freezing.

Feb 11, 2017 | 01:24 PM

J ballan

Fleet Mechanic

Joined: Jan 2012

Posts: 1,668

Likes: 13

From: Saskatchewan

Quote:

Originally Posted by hasteranger

I've had to split several to get them off. No big deal if you have a replacement. They are cast so they aren't hard, especially if it's below freezing.

I know they can be a real pain to remove sometimes but I've never had to break one in half to get it off. How did you go about doing that if you don't mind me asking?

Feb 11, 2017 | 01:53 PM

hasteranger

Lead Driver

Joined: Mar 2010

Posts: 5,250

Likes: 11

From: West Virginia

Depending on the size of the vehicle, I've used anything from an 18 oz ball peen, usually a 2 lb sledge, or a 8 or 10 lb sledge. If they are stuck they get whacked to try and loosen, if they don't break loose they get beat. I have a large cold chisel, usually once I've decided it's coming off in two pieces, I'll make a couple marks with the cold chisel and then a few taps of the hammer and it will split along that line.
If it's below freezing, just slam with the hammer and they will crack.

They are cast so they are brittle anyway, and most are thinner than you'd think especially at critical points.