1977 F250 2wd with a 400 and a NP435.

I am planning on pulling my engine and transmission to go through both of them and clean and paint. I was wondering is it easier to pull the engine and tranny together or separate them pull the engine and pull the transmission through the bottom ?
I have a standard cherry picker and a engine hoist leveler.

 

I always pull both together if I need both out. I don't recommend pulling engine, tranny and T-case together though. I recommend having a stabilizer bar on your lift so you can adjust the angle of everything coming out, so much easier!!

 

2wd together is faster. Pulling the complete front clip (14 bolts) makes for a way easier time IMO. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14696880

You do know how to get the retaining collar off to be able to remove the stick right? Thanks to Number Dummy we all do.

"NP435 = aluminum top cover w/8 bolts
T-18 = cast iron top cover w/6 bolts
Warranty Plate TRANS code: A = NP435 (N-1965 only) / F = Warner T-18 / P = F350 Warner T-19.
Warner shift lever retainer cap (8MTH-7220) threads on/off.
NP435 shift lever retainer cap (B8T-7220-D) has two notches, is retained to shift tower by two pins.

To remove this cap, it must be pressed down and held down while turning it counter clock wise to remove it. (Its spring loaded and twists into place, we removed one and it was a 2 person job. Put the trans into 2nd, 4th, or reverse, then one person holds the cap and applies pressure, twisting in a counter clockwise direction. The other person hits it from the top with a hammer to get the cap to go in below the two clips that hold it in.) People unaware use pliers or channel locks to remove it, which tears out the pins."

Push down on the "cap" part# 7220. You can use a piece of 1x4 wood with a hole drilled in it. I have a pic of the modified piece of wood trick and that is thanks to another FTE member.

 

I recommend pulling the front "clip" if pulling the engine and trans as a unit. Having 800 plus pounds dangling high in the air with a cherry picker can get tippy.

Keep your safety in mind!

 

X22K on what he said, all that weight and then try to safely ROLL/MOVE it is even more dangerous. And trying to just pull just the core support out...more of a PITA IMO.

 

Doable with a gantry or A-frame... dang dangerous IMO with a cherry picker where induced momentum is a bad thing.

 

More web advice. "Push down hard on the thing at bottom of stick, and turn to the left (counter-clockwise) I always make sure trans is in neutral.

I made a "tool" for the job. I use a 1x4x24" long piece of wood with a hole cut in the middle. Slip the tool over the shifter, push down and turn to the left. I know, it sounds dumb but, hey, it worked for me and I've used it several times.

 

By the time you go through all that of removing the front clip, why not just separate the engine from the trans? Starter, 6 bolts and 4 torque converter nuts...
I replaced the 460 in my 77 and all I had to do was remove the hood.. actually I got the old engine out with the hood in place..removed the hood for the new engine..separated engine from the trans.

 

Yes that is a way to go, you can skin a cat head or tail 1st...lol Here is that board trick.

Also here is a trick to help align things up come install time, long bolts with the head cut off.

 

@77&79F250
I really like that long bolt trick. I'll bet it useful in other settings as well.

 

Thanks, but all I did was post a pic of the idea. It actually came form another FTE member along time ago. So long ago I can't remember.

Yes I could see where it would work on other items.


Transmission install tip-8" long grade 8 bolts with the heads cut off to make guide studs. These make installing the transmission a whole lot easier, and since I was doing everything by hand, easier was always better. These bolts have been put in their own box and labeled for future use. Use a hack saw to cut flat tip screwdriver slots in the ends, use a grinder to round the ends a little after cutting off the heads.

Trans tip 2- When installing a flywheel and torquing the bolts, you need to prevent the crankshaft from turning. I used a piece of 1/2" aluminum U-channel which I cut to length and slipped between two of the ring gear teeth. I then wedged it against the bottom inside corner of the frame at about a 60 degree angle. The aluminum is softer than the iron teeth, so any damage will occur to it long before the teeth, and it will actually conform itself to the iron teeth if enough pressure is applied. The U-channel also fits perfectly over the outside edge of an FE flywheel, so it will not slip off!

To actually install the transmission itself, I slid it under the truck on a piece of cardboard, then used two pieces of 2" round hardwood stock laid across the transmission tunnel as "hands"...I tied two pieces of rope under the front and rear of the trans, then ran them over the stock, then back down to me. This way I could pull down and push up from underneath, while having the option of tying off the rope to the frame to hold the trans suspended while I re-positioned.