Heat soak? Bad coil? Help!
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Heat soak? Bad coil? Help!
I am having a problem with my 83 F350. When the truck gets to about 180 degrees, it completely dies. No starting to sputter, nothing. It just dies. Will not start again until cools down. I have a new Holley 750 on it; thought maybe it was heat soaking, so I put a heat shield on, but it still does it. I have also replaced rear gas tank, new coil, new ignition control module, 160 degree thermostat, but it hasn't helped.
I am at a loss for what is going on. I thought if it wasn't heat soaking that replacing the ICM would solve problem
Any advice or ideas are appreciated, I don't know what to do at this point.
I am at a loss for what is going on. I thought if it wasn't heat soaking that replacing the ICM would solve problem
Any advice or ideas are appreciated, I don't know what to do at this point.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,915
Likes: 4,123
From: Angier, NC
You are going to need to do more testing if it is lack of spark or fuel before we can guide you down a path.
Now if you think heat is the cause you could take ice in a bag and pack it around the coil to see if that changes anything.
If not move the bag of ice to the IGN box to see if that does anything.
Could also pack the carb but I cant see it as a cause as it would not just "shut down at 180*". Most of the time heat soaked carbs show up after you have the truck running for a bit and you shut the motor off like running into a store and when you come out it will not start.
Dave ----
edit: I take it you have a v8 being you have a 750 carb but what size?
Now if you think heat is the cause you could take ice in a bag and pack it around the coil to see if that changes anything.
If not move the bag of ice to the IGN box to see if that does anything.
Could also pack the carb but I cant see it as a cause as it would not just "shut down at 180*". Most of the time heat soaked carbs show up after you have the truck running for a bit and you shut the motor off like running into a store and when you come out it will not start.
Dave ----
edit: I take it you have a v8 being you have a 750 carb but what size?
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2016
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You are going to need to do more testing if it is lack of spark or fuel before we can guide you down a path.
Now if you think heat is the cause you could take ice in a bag and pack it around the coil to see if that changes anything.
If not move the bag of ice to the IGN box to see if that does anything.
Could also pack the carb but I cant see it as a cause as it would not just "shut down at 180*". Most of the time heat soaked carbs show up after you have the truck running for a bit and you shut the motor off like running into a store and when you come out it will not start.
Dave ----
edit: I take it you have a v8 being you have a 750 carb but what size?
Now if you think heat is the cause you could take ice in a bag and pack it around the coil to see if that changes anything.
If not move the bag of ice to the IGN box to see if that does anything.
Could also pack the carb but I cant see it as a cause as it would not just "shut down at 180*". Most of the time heat soaked carbs show up after you have the truck running for a bit and you shut the motor off like running into a store and when you come out it will not start.
Dave ----
edit: I take it you have a v8 being you have a 750 carb but what size?
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Freshman User
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460. I don't have a multimeter, but I did buy a new distributor for it. Hasn't been put on yet though.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 7,174
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How old is the coil? If more than a few years old, I'd gamble on a new coil and see what happens. I guess it all depends on how much troubleshooting you want to do. But if the issue is a loss of spark, and you've already tried the ignition module, a new coil is a reasonable shot.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,049
Likes: 65
Does it act like it's running out of gas before it dies? If so, vapor lock? Fuel pump? Fuel filter?
Otherwise, if it quits like you shut off the key it's probably ignition and based on what you've already replaced I'd guess the magnetic pick up inside the the distributor.
Based on recent experience with a bad coil it didn't quit but it did miss, back fire and cut out under a load.
Otherwise, if it quits like you shut off the key it's probably ignition and based on what you've already replaced I'd guess the magnetic pick up inside the the distributor.
Based on recent experience with a bad coil it didn't quit but it did miss, back fire and cut out under a load.
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Freshman User
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How repeatable is the problem? Can you duplicate it in the comfort of your driveway? When the engine dies, test for a spark right away if possible. That should point you down the correct path.
How old is the coil? If more than a few years old, I'd gamble on a new coil and see what happens. I guess it all depends on how much troubleshooting you want to do. But if the issue is a loss of spark, and you've already tried the ignition module, a new coil is a reasonable shot.
How old is the coil? If more than a few years old, I'd gamble on a new coil and see what happens. I guess it all depends on how much troubleshooting you want to do. But if the issue is a loss of spark, and you've already tried the ignition module, a new coil is a reasonable shot.
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pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
So, you may as well replace the distributor, since you have it and you dont have a meter to ohm out the ignition pickup.
(450--950 across orange & purple at the plug)
Does your truck have a tach?
When the engine shuts off does the tach drop to zero even before the engine stops spinning?
(450--950 across orange & purple at the plug)
Does your truck have a tach?
When the engine shuts off does the tach drop to zero even before the engine stops spinning?
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 7,174
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When did the problem start? Any other recent work done? While waiting for everything to cool down, have you confirmed the loss of spark?
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
How do you know it's 180 degrees?
Are you using an IR thermometer or an aftermarket temperature gauge?
***get rid of the stupid 160 degree thermostat***
You are not allowing the engine to reach proper clearances and you are not effectively removing condensation from your oil.
Are you using an IR thermometer or an aftermarket temperature gauge?
***get rid of the stupid 160 degree thermostat***
You are not allowing the engine to reach proper clearances and you are not effectively removing condensation from your oil.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2016
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How do you know it's 180 degrees?
Are you using an IR thermometer or an aftermarket temperature gauge?
***get rid of the stupid 160 degree thermostat***
You are not allowing the engine to reach proper clearances and you are not effectively removing condensation from your oil.
Are you using an IR thermometer or an aftermarket temperature gauge?
***get rid of the stupid 160 degree thermostat***
You are not allowing the engine to reach proper clearances and you are not effectively removing condensation from your oil.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
So, you may as well replace the distributor, since you dont have a meter to ohm out the ignition pickup.
(450--950 across orange & purple at the plug)
Does your truck have a tach?
When the engine shuts off does the tach drop to zero even before the engine stops spinning?
(450--950 across orange & purple at the plug)
Does your truck have a tach?
When the engine shuts off does the tach drop to zero even before the engine stops spinning?
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 39
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Uff da! Missed the mention of the new coil in your original post. Time for everybody to mark their calendars as I was less correct than usual.
When did the problem start? Any other recent work done? While waiting for everything to cool down, have you confirmed the loss of spark?
When did the problem start? Any other recent work done? While waiting for everything to cool down, have you confirmed the loss of spark?