I am planning on rebuilding my front end(F250 4x4 TTB), I am not interested in doing a d60 swap, they go for $1K+ for a full swap around me. I need help making sure I buy the correct parts for rebuilding my current front end.
Ball Joints--> K8435(2) K80026(2)
Wheel Bearings-->?
Tie Rods-->?
Spindles-->?
Anything else?
I have never done any of this on my own, but with you guys, and the internet I can do it. Any help or input is greatly appreciated.

 

Seals, and bushings for the leafs, stabilizer, and pivot, if its ifs.

 

Id check those u joints on the stub shafts while i was in there too. Mine where used up, way back.

 

I did mine awhile back.

I would use OEM ball joints and tie rod ends. You can get import ones for ridiculously cheap prices but hardly worth it considering all the work it is to replace them. OEM parts are available for reasonable prices from RockAuto and I think also Amazon.

You can rent a ball joint press from most auto parts stores for free. You put down a deposit and it's refundable. Don't even need to buy the parts from them.

Seal was leaking on the driver's side where the axle shaft goes into the differential housing.

Front axle u-joints are easy, except for the inner one on the passenger's side. On paper you need to take the differential apart to remove the clip to get the axle stub out, but I've heard of guys finding a way to change that u-joint in place.

There are two part seals that seals the inner part of the hubs on each side of the truck, replace them.

Wheel bearings last a long long time. Unless they show signs of overheating or wear/damage I'd clean them and regrease.

Replace all the pivot bushings on the axle and on the springs and spring hangers with urethane bushings. The old rubber bushings are in steel sleeves and do not like being removed. In general the bushing replacing is a real project. The upper spring hanger bushings on mine were down to metal to metal contact and the new bushings solved a lot of the camber problems.

There are needle bearings that support the outer part of the axle shafts. Mine seemed OK so I left them but you should take a close look at them.

My springs were worn but instead of replacing them I got Firestone airbags to compensate for the sag. AirLift bags seem to be as good or better.

The hard part is finding a competent shop to do the front end alignment when you're done. There are adjustable camber and camber bushings to bring it back into spec, assuming it will need some adjusting. It seems like most shops will just adjust the toe-in and call it an alignment.

 

The local Firestone place wanted something like $250 per side to do camber. I said bump that I'm getting a D60

Also, here is another place to get D50 parts. I've ordered from them before and they had pretty good customer service and super fast shipping
https://quad4x4.com/ford50ifs1983-1997.html

 

I'm literally looking for a miracle for my 02 F250 4x4 Lariat 7.3 power stroke but I doubt anyone can help without me having a decent diagnostic tool first? My trucks got 418k miles and I've got a problem that no ones been able to figure out and I "think" it's either injectors or the electrical box behind the front driver's side fender that's causing my problem... There's so many erratic weird symptoms I could tell you but the two constants are that it surges while driving at any constant speed and it starts running very rough and usually shuts off when I slow down to come to a complete stop. It'll crank right back up again after it cuts off but it usually starts running really rough as soon after I start it back up again and the warmer the weather, the more often I experience the problems. Again, the most obvious constant symptom is when I'm driving on a flat surface (not when I'm climbing upward grade and accelerating); but when I'm simply trying to maintain a constant speed with just the weight of my foot on the accelerator pedal. It's weak the majority of the time until it starts surging forward as if 4 of the 8 cylinders aren't firing until all of a sudden they do and it surges forward like a rocket just as if 4 of the 8 fuel injectors aren't firing fuel into the cylinder the majority of the time and then all of a sudden without notice, all 8 start firing again and it surges forward with the normal amount of power it should always have but only for a few seconds and then just as suddenly as it starts running properly, it falls back to what feels like half half the amount of power it should have again and that's the way it continue to run almost 100% of the time? I've had 2 diesel mechanics hook up their Snap On diagnostics tool and run the buzz test to determine if all the injectors are firing and they always are when being tested with the motor not running. So the diagnostic tool seems to indicate that all 8 injectors are firing in the correct sequence but only while running the buzz test but some of them stop firing for some unknown reason while driving it because they're faulty or the correct electrical signal fails to be sent to at least half of them when driving it? Again, the warmer the weather and the hotter the engine is running, the more it fails? Has anyone experienced this with theirs before and how can.I prove where the breakdown is coming from? I bought the truck several years ago from a used car dealership that claims it was a one owner truck bought new by a farmer and very likely like most farmers, he ran the truck very hard but likely didn't do ANY of the proper required maintenance that it should have gotten. I've got a high end expensive volt meter that I can use to test anything on the engine and/or anything on the electrical system if there's any way to give me the proper components to check, along with their proper voltages? Are any of the less expensive diagnostic tools worth me investing in for a few hundred dollars verses the cost of the Snap On diagnostic tools? I noticed the cheaper diesel ones are for sale on certain social media apps that they claim will do most of the things the expensive tools do but is that true and if so, which ones will do all the things I'll need to properly troubleshoot my vehicle? Thank you!

 

Aceman, You have posted in a thread about front axles in the forum for 1994 to 1997 Powerstrokes. Your question will get a better response if you start a new separate thread with your engine problem questions in the correct forum for 2002 trucks. If my truck was acting like yours the first thing I'd check is the injector wiring harness. It plugs into the cylinder heads just below the valve covers on each side. The connections tend to melt and it's easy to see the burned contacts when you unplug the harness from the cylinder head. There are numerous cheaper diagnostic tools but I don't know about all of them.