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Engine and manual removal

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Old May 8, 2016 | 05:37 AM
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Engine and manual removal

hey everybody, so I've got a 1977 4x4 manual f100. The synchros into 2nd are stuffed. So my question is I'm going to have to pull the box out. Am I best to take the front clip off and remove the motor and box? Do I need to take the transfer case out as well? Or can I leave that in? I figure if I take the motor and box out I can clean the motor up as well as clean up the engine bay. Figure taking the front clip off will make the removal easier. Appreciate the help.
 
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Old May 8, 2016 | 07:19 AM
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IMO taking the 14 bolts out and removing the complete front clip is way easier than fighting it over the radiator core support. And you can easily pull the motor/trans/xfer case as one unit.

FYI as a 3 piece package come time to pull it out, it will be very tail end (xfer case) heavy. So you better have a monster of a cherry picker eng hoist, over head hoist/ tractor. And use a chain in a / cross mount pattern using the head bolts, NOT just a carb-intake lifting plate.

Pre front clip removal advice: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14696874

Front clip removal:https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14696880

Radiator core support bushings: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14696866

Also in this thread are some diagrams: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...then-some.html
 
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Old May 8, 2016 | 07:26 AM
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One man hood, or leave the motor in and one man trans drop. One man front clip removal ideas.
 
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Old May 8, 2016 | 08:11 AM
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Thanks for your reply. I've been going through all your posts. There's a fair few to go through haha. So I was thinking it would be way easier to clean up with the front clip removed, question do you have to take the hood off, or can you leave it attached and take the hole front clip as one. Or is it just to much? Also is pos to leave transfer case in the truck, then I don't have to disconnect driveshafts? Or is the transfer case suspended from the gearbox?
 
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Old May 8, 2016 | 08:15 AM
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I would pull the hood, it 4 bolts. Sharpie mark where it is positioned before you loosen them. Way easier to pull motor/work/clean up/repaint on things with the front clip off.

Removing a d/s is not that big a deal, you can leave the xfer case in the truck, but it is connected to the trans.

With the motor left in, you have to wrestle the trans and xfer case off and the cross member can be a PITA.

Here is a thread that discusses the problems the crossmember can cause. Read thru the complete thread LOTS of good info. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...250-build.html
 
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Old May 8, 2016 | 11:32 AM
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I have removed the transmission and transfer case from the bottom side of the truck. It is a royal PITA. The transfer case is equivalent to benching 135# of complete awkwardness. The transmission seems to be lighter than the transfer case. I always unbolted the transmission from the bellhousing. It's easier with a helper and no transmission jack has seemed to work for the transfer case. When I replaced my clutch I rigged up ratchet straps to the frame and was able to move the transfer case easier but it was still a heluvatime.
If I had to do it again I would remove everything out of the front of the truck.
Plus it gives you time to clean stuff up/ replace gaskets wires paint etc etc.
if able remove the transfer case side mount off the frame. That hardware gets frozen/ corroded. Then you can paint the frame too!!!
 
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Old May 9, 2016 | 09:51 PM
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hey man, i removed my engine, gearbox and transfer out of my truck aswell, i just removed bonnet and radiator, engine and gearbox i took out the engine bay in 2 pieces, could be done with engine and trans still connected i believe, and the transfer case i dropped out the back of the cross member, the transfer case is a heavy ***** of a thing when your rolling around on the ground, but i done the removal and fitment all on my own with a engine crane with good lift height, trolley jack and bike tie downs to support
 
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