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Found a 47 1 ton panel truck, single rear wheels, all original, good glass. Add said running when parked 20 yrs. ago. Haven't had a chance to view it but owner said "just some surface rust". I know what he means ha ha. Was looking for something to customize but this sounds like a truck to restore. Is there anything peculiar about this model I should look out for other than the usual R&R? Even on old motorcycles it's not a crime to improve the brakes. Thanks for your help.
A 1 ton wouldn't be too bad of a truck to hot rod.
The usual rust through spots are on the back corners of the cab on the inside (and sometimes out side), the bottom of the door panels, especialy the front corner, and the bottom peice right infront of the doors below the hinge. The floor is of course a major rust area but the easiest to replace.
I wouldn't take the 20 years as anything special. If it doesn't run now then assume that it may not be able to run. A truck may blow a head gasket and the problem can be forgotten in less than a years time. And if water seeped ino the cylinders over that time...
But don't let that discourage you, you can swap the old flattie out and few people would complain. I think that a truck would be better off hot rodded than still in a field, and those flatties are exspencive to rebuild.
A good thing would be to inspect the legnth of the frame for cracks or bends. Who knows what this thing went through in it's past life. They can be fixed, but it's better to know about what you have to began with.
Can't think of anything else right now. Good luck with the truck. It would be a long/hard project if you got it, but well worth it.
Thanks! Carbon in the radiator? I have a 90 e150 300/C6 to swap running gear and maybe replace the 300 with a stock 351 efi. Keep the front straight axle?
About the straight axel, keep it if you perfere it. As far as handling goes they're ok, but are nothing compared to a modern day suspension. If you have little as far as tools and what you can do, then leaving it there would be better. But if you have the money, tools, and time to put in an indie then go ahead and do it, especialy if you have a 351w or a 300. A straight front axel on todays highways with a bigger engine can tend to be scary, especialy with high crosswinds.
Thanks Clayton,
Sorry bought double post. Connection pretty slow at 5PM. Tried to stop and resend. Whats that expression "more tools than talent"? That's me. Don't know what that 47 panel weights but bet the frame isnot bigger/stronger than my half ton swap van. Would that Panel fit on my frame or does that get into titling problems? Ya, the 300 just needs a good rebuild. "Was runnin' when I parked it" ha ha. low oil pres. Everything else in good shape. Happy Trails.
Byron
Don't worry about the double post, I've done that plenty of times too.
The panel should weigh quite a bit less than the van. I can't give you the exact stock weight right now, but it is most likely less than 3000 lbs.
I don't know much about the mounting pionts on the back part of panel to give you advice on putting the panel body on another frame. If you really want to do that then measure the frame and make sure that it will fit in the space provided by the under side of the panel first. Then you'd need to locate all the mounting points and figure out how to recreate them on the E frame. The front would be the easiest since all the fenders and grill mount to the frame in one spot.
It may be a good idea just to swap out the rear end and see about installing that or another front clip onto the panel.
Finally got round to looking at this panel. Interesting, it has a recessed spare between the right rear wheel and passenger door. Also a roll down window above the spare! Never seen one of those before. Bumpers missing though. Anyone seen a truck like this before or know what model it is?
Thanks
BC
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