When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
That should do the trick. You only need one valve in the hot water incoming line, from intake/head to heater. There won't be any circulation coming from the return line, which is sucked by the water pump.
I believe the home made one is just a shut off and may have been on the truck before the Vintage air was installed. It would only be used to totally shut off all flow. The second is a flow control valve. The farther you open it the more flow you get resulting in more heat available in the cab. I know I am guilty of only turning the heat on as high as it will go but the adjustability is a good thing. The replacement looks like a very good quality piece. It should replace the plastic one with very good results.
Thanks guys. Even though I never really need the heat, I thought it would be good to let the coolant flow through the heater core from time to time. Or maybe keep it on a low flow?
On my truck I had to get rid of the heater core and just ran the hose from the head right back to the pump. When I am ready to drive it I'll have to hook it all up as it should be though. Don't know if my rerouting will cause any problems yet since it hasn't run more than 10 or 15 minutes at a time lately.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
