Front Hub Assistance
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2008
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Front Hub Assistance
I need to do U-joints before spring, and I'm thinking while doing the work I might as well do the wheel bearing/hub assembly too as I believe they are original at 165k miles. Question is, how do I know what hub to buy? I see options for coarse thread and fine thread, 2 wheel ABS and 4 wheel ABS? How can I tell what my ABS system is?
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2012
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When I call my Car Quest parts store they don't usually ask me all those questions. I'm 99% sure you have 4 wheel ABS and likely the course thread studs. Likely a BGS 515020 (CarQuest part #) Don't buy the cheaper one buy the good one. Just my $.02. 
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If they are ABS there will be a black wire that goes into the top of the hub, fastened with an Allen bolt. You likely won't be able to see where it goes into the hub unless you take the rotors off; however, the wire will run along the brake line, then backwards on the frame, to a clip behind the plastic of the inner wheel well, and I don't remember where from that point.
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Elder User
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OK I have 4 wheel ABS....I didn't realize 2 wheel ABS was the rear only, so I definitely have ABS up front.
Any preference on Moog vs Timken? Since I only drive a few thousand miles each year, and do very little off-road (my 4wd use is only occasional snow) is there any logic to going cheap, as in DuraLast or should I stick to the higher end hubs?
Anyone running the cheaper stuff with success?
Any preference on Moog vs Timken? Since I only drive a few thousand miles each year, and do very little off-road (my 4wd use is only occasional snow) is there any logic to going cheap, as in DuraLast or should I stick to the higher end hubs?
Anyone running the cheaper stuff with success?
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2013
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Take it apart then decide if you want to be doing it all over again in a few months when the slcheap parts wear out! Haha, just save the trouble and get a better quality part; it doesn't pay to cheap out.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,465
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From: Jacksonville, FL
Originally Posted by Bonanza35
Most go Timken. Do it right, if your doing it yourself you don't want to do it twice.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,766
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From: East Tawas, MI
Just a word,
Don't use the greasable U-joints in anything. Get sealed and top of the line.
I always thought elsewise and have a pile of joints that I regularly serviced with zerks.
They just don't make the cut.
Denny
Don't use the greasable U-joints in anything. Get sealed and top of the line.
I always thought elsewise and have a pile of joints that I regularly serviced with zerks.
They just don't make the cut.
Denny
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 1,072
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From: Dustbowl, NV
Definitely go Timken, you definitely have fine thread, and it's adviseable to lube the wheel bearings.
Front ABS Grease-able Block Off Fitting for Ford 7.3L 99-04
You only need one; use it to lube both sides!
Front ABS Grease-able Block Off Fitting for Ford 7.3L 99-04
You only need one; use it to lube both sides!
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Elder User
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Why do you say I definitely have fine thread? Most of what I have researched says course thread up until 2003 or 2004. Either way I'm just going to take lug off and run up to McParts to fit it on their lug-finder display.
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From: Dustbowl, NV
There was a recent thread that had this conversation- the consensus was that '01 could have course or fine thread depending on build date- but all '02 thru 04 had fine. Best to do as you said, and check it!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,465
Likes: 17
From: Jacksonville, FL
Originally Posted by holeshotwalt
There was a recent thread that had this conversation- the consensus was that '01 could have course or fine thread depending on build date- but all '02 thru 04 had fine. Best to do as you said, and check it!
If you can, pop of a lug nut and take it with you to be sure, if it doesn't thread on, you need the other one........