2001 7.3 fuel System upgrades (starting in the tank)
Happy Holiday,
Bryan
I've seen one or two reports where Clay's kit has been well-spoken of, but unless you're really jumping up the horsepower, your stock fuel system can provide what you need. The only "upgrades" that I'm really aware of being based on practical issues are the following (again, without huge horsepower demands -- "huge", IIRC, is in the neighborhood of >600 hp, but that's purely a memory number and may well be off a little in either direction), and some of these "upgrades" are really nothing more than preventative maintenance to restore OEM conditions for our maturing vehicles:
- hutch/harpoon mod
- inline fuel strainer between tank and pump
- rebuild an aged FPR on the fuel bowl
- install an electronic fuel pressure gauge for troubleshooting/monitoring from the cab
- perhaps remove the spring in the inner stem of the fuel bowl
- replace aging o-rings on the fuel bowl
- replace (proactively) the passenger side fuel line in the engine valley
- Regulated Return with a new filter down on the pump discharge to replace the one in the valley
- new fuel pump to replace an aged and "tired" unit
- perhaps up-sized fuel line between the tank and pump suction
- fuel rail crossover to balance pressures between the heads on the engine
Other things people have also drilled out the screens in the fuel line inlet ports (but I'm not convinced this gains very much unless you're hitting those huge horsepower gains previously mentioned).
Good comments - My main thought about this upgrade is that I was planning to do the Hutch and Harpoon mods because I do not know what the condition of my pick-up screen looks like. Plus, I am tired of standing at the fuel pump waiting to top off the tank. I do not have any drop in fuel pressure or performance concerns. The truck runs like a top and this is just part of my preventive maintenance efforts. I have stock injectors and do not plan to upgrade them until they get tired.
I have also done a few minor upgrades that might enhance the future fuel system mods. I have the Riffraff Fuel Crossover (gold spring- I think) and the CCV high flow plugs. The main reason for me adding these mods is that I was trying to quiet down the engine idle noise. So far, so good and I plan to keep this low mileage truck (70k) for many years to come.
Maybe the simplest and best use of time and money would be to replace the OEM fuel pump with the Bosch that Clay sells
Thoughts
Bryan
In your case, which is very similar to mine, I would do the following... If I were replacing my existing truck with a lower mileage unit today, these are the exact steps I would perform as a step towards at least 100-200K miles of "no issues" with fuel supply.
1) Hutch and Harpoon (go ahead and replace the pickup foot at the same time)
2) Skip the Baldwin pre-pump filter setup, and instead, use the large Racor PS120 strainer setup (no periodic filter element replacements, virtually no strain on the pump, visible fuel flow condition to observe the presence/absence of contaminants like water & dirt, air bubbles, etc.).
3) Purchase a replacement pump and just carry it with you. If you're over 250K miles, swap the new pump into position in your driveway and carry the older original unit as an emergency spare with the truck, and also carry at least 2-3 small clamps and wrenches to do the swap in a parking lot somewhere.
4) Proactively replace your fuel bowl o-rings (if you haven't already done so)
5) Inspect your passenger side fuel line for any signs of rubbing/wear under the clamp which holds it in place, and replace if necessary (or purchase to carry in the truck for and emergency).
6) Install an electronic in-cab fuel pressure gauge for troubleshooting purposes.
In your case, which is very similar to mine, I would do the following... If I were replacing my existing truck with a lower mileage unit today, these are the exact steps I would perform as a step towards at least 100-200K miles of "no issues" with fuel supply.
1) Hutch and Harpoon (go ahead and replace the pickup foot at the same time)
2) Skip the Baldwin pre-pump filter setup, and instead, use the large Racor PS120 strainer setup (no periodic filter element replacements, virtually no strain on the pump, visible fuel flow condition to observe the presence/absence of contaminants like water & dirt, air bubbles, etc.).
3) Purchase a replacement pump and just carry it with you. If you're over 250K miles, swap the new pump into position in your driveway and carry the older original unit as an emergency spare with the truck, and also carry at least 2-3 small clamps and wrenches to do the swap in a parking lot somewhere.
4) Proactively replace your fuel bowl o-rings (if you haven't already done so)
5) Inspect your passenger side fuel line for any signs of rubbing/wear under the clamp which holds it in place, and replace if necessary (or purchase to carry in the truck for and emergency).
6) Install an electronic in-cab fuel pressure gauge for troubleshooting purposes.
Thanks,
Bryan
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Bryan
The screens inside the mixing chamber will go away with the H&H mod.
I am referring to the hard rubber pickup foot itself which begins to crumble with age. It's cheap, and I would personally leave the large mesh screen in the bottom of it just to keep large flaky trash from closing off around the fuel tubing.
Link to Clay's site for this part is here >>> http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/fuel-t...ot-and-screen/
The picture below shows what I'm talking about replacing. One thing to keep in mind is that if you increase the size of your pickup tubing as suggested in the H&H mod, you'll have to drill out the inlet portion of the pickup foot where it slides onto the tube, and you need to do this without a drill... simply turn the properly sized drill bit into the rubber by hand -- it's a little stiff, but not too difficult.
I was pleased with the results afterwards. Although there was no performance boost I could notice, knowing that my fuel system was maintained (fuel lines and bowl resealed with the diesel o-ring kit) gives me peace of mind.
It was odd the first time I filled up after the harpoon mod. My fuel gauge stayed passed F for 120+ miles until it finally started to lower to below F then 3/4 tank, etc. I thought for a while that I broke my fuel sender, thankfully I didn't and it was just the benefit of stuffing all that extra fuel in there.













