Need advice on a new alternator!

Well, almost became overnight guests at a friend's house Christmas night

After an evening of sharing with friends, my family and I loaded into the Excursion and eerrrumph, errruuuuph, click-click....

How in the world do TWO 850+ CCA batteries die?

Grabbed TorquePro, wouldn't find the OBDII-BT adapter. I unplug everything, including cellphone charger and brake controller. Reset to 00 (bypass) and cycle the key on the Hydra. No change.

Grabbed a spare headlamp from the console, my not-yet-used DVOM from troubleshooting a while back (has DC Clamp ammeter) and check batteries. 11.75. Yep, they're down

Found I left the rear wiper turned on. Had it failed to dock and drained the battery? Turned it off and waited a bit.

All-off for a few mins, get a crank or two, barely.

Climb under the hood. Fuel bowl heater is not connected, pigtail up out of the way, not shorted. Nothing laying on GP relay.

Climb underneath to check new starter (this summer). Not hot, cables look and feel good and tight, housing not loose, top (grounding) bolt tight. Crap.

Finally surrender and called my buddy inside for a jump from his...ahem...Trailblazer Turned off everything, connected jumpers to one battery, let him keep the rpms up a bit and put juice into the battery. Checked with meter while connected- 12.85v

After a few mins, cables getting warm and decide to remove cables and try it. SUCCESS!!! Starts up, throws CEL P0381 (Glow Plug Circuit)- probably due to low voltage cutout.



Here she is running on the way home, 2nd gear, OD off, radio, heat, wipers all off, only HIDs running (night time). 11.9v Would drop off when I hit the brakes (tail lights) and low rpms, eventually down to 11.7v




The most I could get was 12.1v, which she had to work up to at 2k-3k rpms. People probably wondered why I was in neutral and revving at stoplights. It was just over 1.5hrs home.





This was a few days ago on 12/18. 14.2v




So I'm thinking new alternator, right?

I don't want junk. I need something relatively soon. Upgrades are nice, but don't need crazy juice and not sure I want to be grinding brackets and such right now, in the middle of a lot of projects at the moment

I know, I know, "Good, Fast, Cheap, Now"

Ideally, I'd like to find something at local NAPA, AdvanceAuto, Autozone...about my only choices on Saturday after Christmas

If it is a BIG deal, I can order something- as long as I get something that I can install by early next week.

Suggestions?

I've never tested an alternator. This case seems pretty cut and dry...Bet the field is staying energized and/or alternator isn't...well, alternating, LOL!

FYI- New UVCH and OEM GPs installed this year and starts at 25F in less than 2 secs with GPs.

Thanks!

 

I don't really know brands of alternators. I always get whatever the local parts store has and go with it. They may have a choice between new and rebuilt though.

 

Not much instock anywhere.

NAPA has 110amp reman instock for $150 plus core. 3 yr warranty.

Guess that's gotta be it. If I knew it was going out, I could've ordered a better or upgraded one.

Driving her a few years is better than sitting at home broken down, I guess

Thanks CampSpringsJohn!

 

I understand that you need it fixed and quick.

This thread was informative:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...s-way-out.html

 

Thanks for the link. I have about an hour before I hit the road to pick up an alternator. Can make different choices until then.

What about this 6.0L alternator? Is clocking it hard or take much time? Is it a direct fit in the mount and wiring?

Do I just call and ask for 2005 6.0L alternator

Thanks.

 

Will 2001 E350 alternator fit? They have that instock and it is 130 amp. Same price.

 

It depends on the connections on the back. I believe it will bolt right up to the mount.

 

Here is the closest thing I could find. I did not have a chance to read the entire thread. You'll have to carefully vet it.

Inexpensive upgrade to 140 amp large case alternator - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com

 

I thought the vans used the OBS set up and had the alternator on the opposite side of the motor? Not sure how/if that would fit.

Clocking the alternator case isn't hard. Remove 3 screws and pull the case off the back. Rotate it one screw hole and put it back together. I changed the pulley to the 7.3 pulley. Whole process took 5 or 10 minutes. The 6.0 alternator has a larger case so you either have to stack a couple of washers between the bracket and the alternator for clearance or hit the bracket with a grinder for about 2 seconds to make clearance.

If you go with the 6.0 set up, just be sure to ask about different amperages. They sell them from 110 up to 135 or 140.

 

Unless you want to re-engineer the cable, fusible link, and connections - I'd just go with the stock amperage that has been keeping the rig charged for so many years without issue. It's not like they undersized the alternator.

 

Keep your current alternator and have it rebuilt by a good shop at your leisure. Eat the core charge. Then when the "lifetime" unit dies you have a good one on the shelf ready to go.

 

I'm up and running, back on the road. I'll update when I get back tonight.

Thanks all!

 

If you can wait a few days, I would recommend a 140amp 6g large case, from QuickStart, in Michigan.
http://store.alternatorparts.com/825...lternator.aspx
Its 100% American made, and has heavy duty parts for longevity. It is a large case, but it should bolt right in with spacers they ship with it.

 

Good post at that link, thanks!

 

Turns out they only had 110amp in stock for the 6.0, the 99 van one had a different electrical connector- a bit larger...I think I might be mixing them up, we pulled a couple and they had another one out for a Town & Country for someone else at the time.