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Less than 2k on rebuild in the sig. 400, aussie Cleveland heads, edelbrock performer.
My Mr. gasket 222 (if memory serves) has began dissolving. Have been smelling oil burning at idle lately. Had the hood open to check the oil and see the intake gasket hanging out the front. Seems to be coming apart near the ports too so I imagine it's sucking oil in the bottom.
I've seen fel-pro printoseal do the same which is why I avoided them.
The question is; go back to a valley pan or try edelbrock's 7265 gasket? I'm Leary of any rubber coated fiber gasket after this episode
Are you talking about the "S" shaped intake manifold gasket that are under the front and rear ends of the intake manifold? Yes prone to blow out and cause major leaks. Ask me how I learned that on my 351M....
I hear a trick is to clean up as much as possible then rough up that area of the block and bottom of intake with some sand paper and JUST use Permetex copper high temp or Permetex black high oil resistance RTV.
It worked great on my 351M the second time around.
Pull the intake, clean everything. Mock the intake up without gaskets to see how it fits.
If it looks OK, go and get a gasket kit. Fel-Pro Print-o-seal is good, don't know why you had problems with it. Others are, too. When you get the box home open it up and put the end seals into the garbage, right away. Instead of the end seals (which always give trouble), use a strip of high quality silicone sealer or, better yet, The Right Stuff. If silicone, allow to skin over before setting intake. Bolt down but not fully torqued. Complete torquing the next day. That allows the silicone to cure and be in compression while in service. If you spent the $15 for The Right Stuff, lay down the strip, install the manifold and torque it down. TRS sets up immediately. You can drive the truck at this point, no waiting.
Agree with using black silicon sealer on the 'S' ends; or the china walls as its been called. You could use a punch and dimple those areas then silicon, allowing it to skin over, or set up for a bit. Do the same even if you're going to use the turkey pan.
As far as the intake gasket, I prefer the turkey pan for the reasons you have leaks....the cloth/fiber gaskets will soak up some oil after a spell, and oil might also get into the intake runners. Not to mention hot oil splatter on the bottom of your intake manifold.
Definitely dry fit everything beforehand for a check on uniform gaposis.
I should have clarified; this is far from my first rodeo and wasn't an install mistake. I've done dozens of intake gaskets and never had a leak. I did not use the end seals, did about 1/4" bead of silicone. That's not the problem. The fiber/rubber whatever gasket that goes between the intake and head is squeezing out the end. Like I can see the port opening where it's supposed to seal the thermactor port.
It was not like this when I put it together, it's only happened within the last few weeks. I normally put high tack around all port openings, but may not have around the thermactor holes as there are none in these heads.
The gasket is defective, it looks like rubber that's been swollen by oil and is coming apart. I ordered edelbrock's gasket which is supposed to be paper with silicone rings around the ports. I'll take pics upon tear down so this can serve as a warning
Well, finally got this done 2 weeks back. No more oil burning smell and I had to raise the idle screw a bit; both good indicators it was Sucking oil and I had a vacuum leak. The piece of melted gasket felt nothing like it did when I installed it. It felt like hard plastic from a credit card. Edelbrock gaskets are in and so far so good.
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