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When I get a few days of good weather (dry and warm) I need to address the rust on my oil pan.I've already started the degreasing/cleaning process.
From what i can tell something like silver Chassis Saver or POR15 is the way to go. In the worst spot, I was thinking about adding some fiberglass to strengthen the worst area:
I'm pretty sure the will help, but I'm not sure if the paint is thick/tacky enough to hold the wetted out glass in place.
Is there anyone here who has experience with POR15/Chassis Saver or other MCU paints and fiberglass?
I use their thicker version called porpatch which is like a putty to repair a hole in my 7.3 8 years ago and still holding. I also fixed hole in trans pan..
I coat over it with the POR15
That's good to know. Right now, I don't have any apparent leaks. I'm hoping it stays that way once it's sanded down.
I'm assuming that whatever I use it must have a service temperature of 200 degrees or more, meaning the oil pan can regularly see that temperature for extended periods of time.
I think ford needs sued on these oil pans. I didn't want to buy the 87-96 years due to seeing it on most if not all the trucks. I guess they didn't fix it on this model series either. Oil pans and gas tanks must be made of the same pot metal.
If I was worried that sanding the rust off an oil pan was going to open up a leak, I'd go ahead and replace it. Just sayin'.
I'd agree if it wasn't a $2,000+ job with high likelyhood of the tab rising as the job progress ( while the engine is out you might as well do xxx).
If I get the pan cleaned up with no pinholes and get some epoxy and fiberglass tape over any rusty/pitted spots it should produce a sound repair. I'm not so worried about the sanding that I'm going to drain the oil in the pan when I do the job. It's just that there was at least one spot with a little crunch sound - it could have been the paint for all that I know.
I know that the factory calls the rust on these pans cosmetic and their solution is to sand it down and apply high temp paint. Applying fiberglass cloth with high temp epoxy to any pitted area is a much better and longer lasting solution.
I think ford needs sued on these oil pans. I didn't want to buy the 87-96 years due to seeing it on most if not all the trucks. I guess they didn't fix it on this model series either. Oil pans and gas tanks must be made of the same pot metal.
After seeing how mine went, I suspect it's the prep/paint. I had a few small visible rust spots that grew very fast over the course of 6 months or so. I think that once the paint is compromised all bets are off and the speed of decline will be very fast - at least in the northeast.
I think ford needs sued on these oil pans. I didn't want to buy the 87-96 years due to seeing it on most if not all the trucks. I guess they didn't fix it on this model series either. Oil pans and gas tanks must be made of the same pot metal.
There is nothing wrong with the pan design. Its that nice salt/brine solution that is the problem.
There is nothing wrong with the pan design. Its that nice salt/brine solution that is the problem.
Than why don't I see rotted oil pans on my 79 ford my 94 volvo or my 93 toyota truck that has a rotted out frame and is a year away from the frame recall?
I don't think it is just the salt causing the issue here.
Can't say I ever seen any of the 80-86's with soft oil pans either.
Back to my question about temperature. I found an epoxy that can be used up to 250 degrees without an oven cure that's also thin enough to wet out glass cloth.
I assume the max temp we should see at the pan is well below this, more like 200-225 degrees.
Am I correct in saying that I should never see temps as high as 250 degrees at the pan?
I'm in a similar boat... one thing though, how are you going to reach all the nooks and crannies? That is a really long oil pan. I'd like to wire wheel mine but obviously there are some hard to reach spots above the subframe crossmember etc.
What's the strategy to go to those places? Just lots of elbow grease I am sure.
And ya, these pans are absolute crap. If my 1988 Volvo can make it through 25 years of salt and snow without a lick of rust but my 2000 Ford is getting really rusty, then we know someone skipped out in their supply chain. Never had an issue with any of my first gen Tundras either.
To pull the motor or not to pull the motor... the "while your in there" words will get uttered I am sure.
What's the strategy to go to those places? Just lots of elbow grease I am sure.
In my case those hidden areas appear to be rust free.
My plan was to not try to remove the paint in the hard to get to areas, but rather to scuff it up so the epoxy will stick well. If it starts to peel up when sanding then the plan will change....
I cleaned up the pan as best I could and went for the fiberglass/epoxy approach. In the places where the paint seemed to be on good I didn't worry about removing it, just scuffed it up good.
I kind of like the clear epoxy, if the rust starts forming under the the coating, it's easy enough to see.
