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I clearcoated my oil pan, probably about a dozen or so years ago, before any rust could even think about forming. Fast forward to today, and that clear coating all flaked off, so I'm down to the original black paint again.

Recently, I found some VHT High Heat clear coat, so I'm thinking of doing another solvent cleaning and re clearing session again. Perhaps that will hold for another decade. Currently, I wipe the pan with used oil at every oil change.

 

I had my pan replaced a little over a year ago after having little or no good results from using POR-15 on it about 5-6 years ago. I need to get under there and take a look at how well the new, non-OEM pan is holding up. Good info in this thread.

 

Good info on Por 15 not holding up after 5 or 6 years. It is really hard to get that kind of info, because most people glow about a product when they first put it on. By the time 5 or 6 years rolls by, they've traded or sold the vehicle.

 

This was just the kind of discussion I was having with myself today as I prepped my oil pan for paint. My pan (2002 with 217k miles) is rusty but not perforated yet.

I talked to the guys at POR and the reason I think that POR-15 is probably not the best option is that, as per my discussion with them, you MUST strip all residual paint off the oil pan. POR 15 only adheres to uncoated metal and rust.

The problem lies in being able to prep the pan properly. The rear section which protudes downwards is easy enough to get to once you remove the oil filter and torque converter / flywheel cover, but the rest of the pan is nightmare to access. You cannot properly prep it. Period. There isnt enough space to strip any residual paint or use sand paper or a small wire wheel. I tried.

I then I used a $9 can of Permatex paint stripper. WOW is that stuff nasty. Instantly burns your skin on contact. Ya need to wear a face mask and a respirator. But it worked. One can did half the tank. I tried some paint stripper at the front of the tank where only rust seems to remain and nothing came off. Logical.








The lower profile section of the tank, forward of the cross member looks like its rusted, which is "good", because then POR-15 will adhere, BUT that assumes there isnt any paint underneath the rust. Which is possible. And therefore POR-1 wouldnt work.

The nice thing about Rustoleum engine primer and engine enamel is it will adhere to old paint. Problem is I can only find it as a spray which wont work in tight spots. Also, in a study by museum restorers, Rustoleum performed best. See here:Comparative Study of Rust Converters for Historic Outdoor Metal Work

What to do?

 

 

Not long enough.

 

I just did my pan the other day myself. Sorry no pics., I have some bubbling on the bottom front edge and sides. I first noticed it 8 yrs. ago doing an oil change, and just wired brushed what I could ,sprayed rustoleum primer, then top coated with rustoleum paint. s time I wire brushed, wiped with brake kleen, sprayed Eastwood's rust converter, (2)coats, followed by Eastwood's Rust encapsolator (2)x On a side note, I was thinking of painting it on with a brush, but figured spraying it would get into more hard to reach places, atleast it does when I spray things in the garage.

 

So the first time you used Rustoleum ENGINE primer and engine enamel? The regular metal primer is only good to 100F or so. How long did it last?

The Eastwood products were spray? Were you able to get into the all the areas around the front of the pan and center under the crossmember with the spray can?

 

The first time lasted about 8yrs.. Yes I just used regular Rustoleum red oxide primer w/ regular Rustoleum black paint that I had lying around the garage. I figured high heat would not be an issue at the oil pan. The Eastwood products I used this time ((Rust Encapsulator) says it's good for 400deg. & yes they were spray on versions. I think I spent $21.00 & change. I sprayed it in the tight spaces the best I could. I don't expect to cure the rust, just hoping to slow it way down. There are some weeping fuel (2 lines by the oil cooler) & oil leaks (dipstick flange)that should help coat the pan too. I got the flange o- ring & nut, just haven't got around to fixing it yet. When it starts pissing on the driveway, I'll have to do it.

 

I called Rustoleum and they mentioned that was common issue; using regular paint in a high heat situation. Nonetheless it lasted 8 years.

The dipstick in my truck looks like it could cumble apart at any moment! I just blew the long rear brake line (rust) and replaced with DORMAN kit. Perfect it.My power steering cooler lines are also on the cusp of bursting.

 

My underneath is not at that point yet, but I don't plow (2wd), and I wash the undercarriage when I can. I have had to replace the rear brake lines in the 15 yrs,I've owned it, but that's normal for any vech. in this Midwest area. My left cab corner & right bed side wheel arch is another story tho.

 

What's leaking on those fuel lines? If it's the steel tubing that runs up to the filter I would move them to the top of the priority list. They do rust through and when they spring a gusher they spring a gusher.

 

It looks like the seals are leaking a little. The lines I thought are stainless. If not the fuel has them pretty well coated. I seen a thread awhile back where another member was having the same issue. I think it was mentioned that the seals aren't serviceable, & the lines have to be replaced. I may look into changing them out, sooner rather than later.

 

Those seals are not serviceable and the flex lines might be impossible to separate from the tube lines.