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So I have a 2011 F350 6.7 and it was a nice balmy -22 this am. Well started the truck, no issues until I got in it. No heat..I have the electric which did not work nor did my normal heat when I was driving on the highway. Froze my butt all the way to work. Any ideas on where to start other than just bringing it into the shop. Fuse that could effect both? Just too damn cold?
Are you saying the blower didnt come on? If so, could be a fuse. Check the owners manual on fuse locations and check that out. Otherwise, to the dealer she goes.
So, if the blower did come on, then I would have to ask that you check your coolant level. If it is low, you usually will not get heat. As for supplemental heat, it may have been too cold to notice it, as it is more for quickly unfogging your windows vs real cabin heat. How far did you drive the truck?
So, if the blower did come on, then I would have to ask that you check your coolant level. If it is low, you usually will not get heat. As for supplemental heat, it may have been too cold to notice it, as it is more for quickly unfogging your windows vs real cabin heat. How far did you drive the truck?
I have always found that my supplemental heat works best when the recirculate switch is set to recirculate, and it does a good job of heating the cabin before main heat really starts working.
Here is a little info on the supplemental heater (from 2010 Ford Super Duty Workshop Manual)
Auxiliary Electric Heater
An electric heater is available as optional equipment on diesel vehicles. The electronic heater assembly contains the Auxiliary Heater Control Module (AHCM) and element, and is located in the HVAC immediately downstream of the heater core.
Power is supplied to the AHCM element through a fused cable connected directly to the positive battery terminal with an in-line connection at the dash panel heater tube opening. Ground is supplied to the electric heater element through a ground cable connected directly to the negative battery terminal with an in-line connection at the dash panel heater tube opening. The AHCM is activated by a Medium Speed Controller Area Network (MS-CAN) message from the HVAC module — EMTC or HVAC module — DATC . The MS-CAN message is converted to a HS-CAN message by the Instrument Cluster (IC) module and is then detected by the AHCM .
The electric heater will be activated if all of the following conditions are met:
The ignition switch is in the RUN/START position
The engine is operating at greater than 500 rpm
Any ON mode is selected on the HVAC module — EMTC or HVAC module — DATC
The temperature set point is greater than 80% of the highest setting ( EMTC only, DATC uses software algorithm based on interior temp and set point)
The engine coolant temperature is less than 85°C (185°F)
No alternator faults have been recorded and alternator is not at full capacity
After you check the fuses. If you have a programmer or OBDII reader - reset the computers. I used forscan to do that on my 2011 when the A/C and heater wouldn't work and after it did its thing, everything worked again. You'll get to go through transmission adaptive learning again too.
Apparently Ford used a Windows OS to control things in the truck.
Interesting that after the coolant gets to 85F the Aux heater shuts off. I find that recirculate works better too, especially in the sub zero temps.
A lot of the trucks have remote start on them, my '11 did and so does my '15. It must be buried in some option package is my guess.
Why not just fire it up and let it warm up while you are shaving or something, does that work????????
As I found out this year, that sorta works - in sub zero weather idling doesn't really get the truck warm. The automatic high idle option helps a little, but it is so cold out that the truck doesn't really get "warm" sitting outside idling in the driveway in that kind of weather. As soon as you drive it, it is amazing how fast it starts to warm up. What does help is that the seat and steering wheel heater turn on automatically if you remote start it a few minutes before you jump in.
FWIW, I have driven to a parking lot and had to wait for my kids to get out of class and while idling, I have watched the temp gauges on the IC move from almost the center to the cold mark on the left... This is where an SEIC would come in handy.
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