Turning off the auto locking hubs
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 3,225
Likes: 63
Turning off the auto locking hubs
I tried this once before, pulling the fuse, but that was a pain in the butt.
There are times that I will use 4WD low, on pavement
Backing into my driveway is one example. Fairly steep and then I have to jack the trailer around a bit once at the top.
4WD low makes pushing an 18K trailer up the driveway less work for the truck, but the hubs locked add their own issue.
The other example is pulling on the "roller coaster" hills.
The auto portion of the locking hubs is vacuum controlled. There is a supply hose connected to a small manifold that is electrically operated.
No power, the port is blocked.
Power applied, the port is opened and the vacuum circuit to the hubs is completed
Power then removed, the vacuum port is blocked, and a dump port allows the vacuum hose to repressurize and disconnect the hubs.
I cut the grey wire at the connector, 2" away. Soldered in a wire that went trough the firewall grommet to a simple on - off switch
The pictures: One is the electrically operated valve and vac hose.
The other is what is now my mini 5 switch panel.
I can now switch into 4WD low, flip the switch and have low gear and no steering issues
There are times that I will use 4WD low, on pavement
Backing into my driveway is one example. Fairly steep and then I have to jack the trailer around a bit once at the top.
4WD low makes pushing an 18K trailer up the driveway less work for the truck, but the hubs locked add their own issue.
The other example is pulling on the "roller coaster" hills.
The auto portion of the locking hubs is vacuum controlled. There is a supply hose connected to a small manifold that is electrically operated.
No power, the port is blocked.
Power applied, the port is opened and the vacuum circuit to the hubs is completed
Power then removed, the vacuum port is blocked, and a dump port allows the vacuum hose to repressurize and disconnect the hubs.
I cut the grey wire at the connector, 2" away. Soldered in a wire that went trough the firewall grommet to a simple on - off switch
The pictures: One is the electrically operated valve and vac hose.
The other is what is now my mini 5 switch panel.
I can now switch into 4WD low, flip the switch and have low gear and no steering issues
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 3,225
Likes: 63
Yes to the up fitters, but they only turn things on and only when the key is on.
Clockwise from top left:
1. Turbo cool down on - off
2. Compressor on
3. Stobes
4. 4wd
5. Air horn on/off
#1 Turbo cool timer is just an on off switch, since it has to be wired to a hot circuit. Don't need it all the time.
#2 The main compressor feed is coming off #4 up fitter. I had several leaks that were a chore to find, so in the interim I added the switch to feed the compressor relay with the key off.
#3 Strobes, have them in the grill and on the toolbox, need an always hot feed
#4 is just a make/break switch for the hub circuit
#5 Air horn relay is wired into the truck's horn circuit. This is just another make break circuit switch.
Mainly to keep my wife from setting off the alarm in a Lake George CVS parking lot at 10 pm when I am not around and blasting everyone with air horns that are connected to an 8 gallon supply.
Not that she has ever done that
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 3,225
Likes: 63
Those add on switches were all done separately, with no consideration of future additions.
The next truck will be done in a more systematic manner.
Something else I did not consider. It was probably 2 years into ownership before I realized most major repairs were done with the cab off.
I have several things that are wired between the chassis and cab and chassis and bed that would be an issue if either had to be removed.
So the next truck will have a much neater switch block and all chassis-cab/bed stuff will be capable of disconnects.
The next truck will be done in a more systematic manner.
Something else I did not consider. It was probably 2 years into ownership before I realized most major repairs were done with the cab off.
I have several things that are wired between the chassis and cab and chassis and bed that would be an issue if either had to be removed.
So the next truck will have a much neater switch block and all chassis-cab/bed stuff will be capable of disconnects.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 6,600
Likes: 84
Yep, if my cab has to come off they'll be cutting my wiring that I've run.
Had I considered cab off repair at the time, I would have added in a way to disconnect.
Had I considered cab off repair at the time, I would have added in a way to disconnect.
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Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 3,225
Likes: 63
I have a collection of "free" horns.
One is off a Mack dump, one from a Volvo HDT pair, and a double trumpet that came off I don't know what.
The mack and Volvo trumpets are about 28"
The Mack and the double trumpet are mounted in the space behind the front bumper, crossways.
The Volvo is mounted under the passenger door
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 21,338
Likes: 8,057
From: North Central Washington
Duane,
That is a very good idea. I use 4 low at my place all the time when backing trailers and such up the driveway. For me the front being locked in has not been an issue because everything around here is dirt. But I can certainly see the advantage of just having the rear axle in 4 low.
That is a very good idea. I use 4 low at my place all the time when backing trailers and such up the driveway. For me the front being locked in has not been an issue because everything around here is dirt. But I can certainly see the advantage of just having the rear axle in 4 low.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 9,762
Likes: 115
Interesting overall setup and being able to lock low and go without turning issues is nice. Never realized why that would be needed until I moved to land of mountains and snow...
Shouldn't be too hard for Ford to program in a 2WD LO setting in the future. Even in the snow/ice I hate having to turn sharp in 4WD.
Shouldn't be too hard for Ford to program in a 2WD LO setting in the future. Even in the snow/ice I hate having to turn sharp in 4WD.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,045
Likes: 5
From: Gig Em, Tx
I tried this once before, pulling the fuse, but that was a pain in the butt.
There are times that I will use 4WD low, on pavement
Backing into my driveway is one example. Fairly steep and then I have to jack the trailer around a bit once at the top.
4WD low makes pushing an 18K trailer up the driveway less work for the truck, but the hubs locked add their own issue.
The other example is pulling on the "roller coaster" hills.
The auto portion of the locking hubs is vacuum controlled. There is a supply hose connected to a small manifold that is electrically operated.
No power, the port is blocked.
Power applied, the port is opened and the vacuum circuit to the hubs is completed
Power then removed, the vacuum port is blocked, and a dump port allows the vacuum hose to repressurize and disconnect the hubs.
I cut the grey wire at the connector, 2" away. Soldered in a wire that went trough the firewall grommet to a simple on - off switch
The pictures: One is the electrically operated valve and vac hose.
The other is what is now my mini 5 switch panel.
I can now switch into 4WD low, flip the switch and have low gear and no steering issues
There are times that I will use 4WD low, on pavement
Backing into my driveway is one example. Fairly steep and then I have to jack the trailer around a bit once at the top.
4WD low makes pushing an 18K trailer up the driveway less work for the truck, but the hubs locked add their own issue.
The other example is pulling on the "roller coaster" hills.
The auto portion of the locking hubs is vacuum controlled. There is a supply hose connected to a small manifold that is electrically operated.
No power, the port is blocked.
Power applied, the port is opened and the vacuum circuit to the hubs is completed
Power then removed, the vacuum port is blocked, and a dump port allows the vacuum hose to repressurize and disconnect the hubs.
I cut the grey wire at the connector, 2" away. Soldered in a wire that went trough the firewall grommet to a simple on - off switch
The pictures: One is the electrically operated valve and vac hose.
The other is what is now my mini 5 switch panel.
I can now switch into 4WD low, flip the switch and have low gear and no steering issues