52 Ford f7 too slow for road use... HELP!!!
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52 Ford f7 too slow for road use... HELP!!!
Hello everyone, I'm new to the board but am in need of your help and seek advice. I acquired an old 52 big job f7 last September and have been fixing it up slowly. My major issue is that it will not go any faster than approx 30mph.
The 2 speed rear does not work but I did disassemble it and manually switched it into high. Still no faster than 30...
I know these trucks are not speed kings but if I could get her to go around 50mph I could get her back into service again... Any suggestions??? I'll post any pics you request. It has very large tires on it but I don't think that would affect anything g besides acceleration. It just seems like its geard so damn low.
The 2 speed rear does not work but I did disassemble it and manually switched it into high. Still no faster than 30...
I know these trucks are not speed kings but if I could get her to go around 50mph I could get her back into service again... Any suggestions??? I'll post any pics you request. It has very large tires on it but I don't think that would affect anything g besides acceleration. It just seems like its geard so damn low.
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Hi friends... No. Have not counted the revolutions, can you explain the procedure? I will check that ASAP. Also. The engine in it is an aftermarket 351w... Not original flathead unfortunately. I know the 2 speed works by switching the little mechanism in the rear either full left or full right... Originally it was full left, I changed it to full right... Still slow as a turd.
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An aftermarket 351W.
What transmission?
What RPM are you turning at 30 mph?
What tire size are you running?
Even a stock wheezer '80s 351w smog motor will run up to 4000 rpm, which should be well over 50 with stock gearing, even low range.
Something besides gearing could be going on here methinks.
What transmission?
What RPM are you turning at 30 mph?
What tire size are you running?
Even a stock wheezer '80s 351w smog motor will run up to 4000 rpm, which should be well over 50 with stock gearing, even low range.
Something besides gearing could be going on here methinks.
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Hmmm. Ok. Well I know the trans is the original NH 4 speed... Don't quote me on that lol. I have a video on my YT channel so you can get idea of tire size but they're the 20" rims with tires damn near 3 feet tall. Def at 4000 rpms on the max out. My channel is archifxllc on YT,
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From: Maryland
I once had a truck with an Eaton electric 2 speed that didn’t work and I had to manually shift it at the rear, like you did. The first time that I manually shifted it to high range, it shifted itself back to low range when I turned the key on to start the truck. The 2 speed motor has an automatic switch inside the housing that has 2 prongs, one for high and one for low. The prongs move in sync with the button-switch on the shifter inside the cab. The high range prong was broken allowing only the low range to work. I remedied this by disconnecting the electric to the switch-button on the shifter, followed by manually shifting the rear again. After I did that it stayed in high range and it was full speed ahead. Later, I replaced the automatic switch in the 2-speed housing, which is really easy to fix. I’m not sure if this is the cure you will need, but it is a suggestion.
You have a really nice truck! I like the spokes better than the Bud wheels.
You have a really nice truck! I like the spokes better than the Bud wheels.
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I once had a truck with an Eaton electric 2 speed that didn’t work and I had to manually shift it at the rear, like you did. The first time that I manually shifted it to high range, it shifted itself back to low range when I turned the key on to start the truck. The 2 speed motor has an automatic switch inside the housing that has 2 prongs, one for high and one for low. The prongs move in sync with the button-switch on the shifter inside the cab. The high range prong was broken allowing only the low range to work. I remedied this by disconnecting the electric to the switch-button on the shifter, followed by manually shifting the rear again. After I did that it stayed in high range and it was full speed ahead. Later, I replaced the automatic switch in the 2-speed housing, which is really easy to fix. I’m not sure if this is the cure you will need, but it is a suggestion.
You have a really nice truck! I like the spokes better than the Bud wheels.
You have a really nice truck! I like the spokes better than the Bud wheels.
The way it is now, I have to immediately shift into 2nd around 2mph. Currently first gear is merely a crawler gear and they're all pretty lousy in terms of speed all the way through 4th.
Is the "high" gear setting noticeably different than low?
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From: Orcas Island Wa.
You mentioned it's a 4 speed, but that dash plate shows a 5 speed with that very weird pattern that says 'clark' to me. If you are in the lower right corner of your pattern, you still have another gear. If you didn't read 'the instructions', it's because you are a guy. Just a thought.
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From: Island Southeast Alaska
With that 351W there is no way your in hi gear. Either the rear end is
not coming out of low range or like Gary said ya have a Clark 5sp and
have not found 5th gear. She will run at 50 all day when ya get it in High
on both ends. And yes there is a noticeable difference between low and
high in the 2sp rear end.
Can ya get some numbers off the tranny? Some pic's of it? That may help
us tell ya just what it is. Same with the rear.
not coming out of low range or like Gary said ya have a Clark 5sp and
have not found 5th gear. She will run at 50 all day when ya get it in High
on both ends. And yes there is a noticeable difference between low and
high in the 2sp rear end.
Can ya get some numbers off the tranny? Some pic's of it? That may help
us tell ya just what it is. Same with the rear.
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From: Maryland
Perhaps jacking the rear up off the ground a couple of inches and rotating the wheels slightly while you slide the fork will help to engage the gear teeth. Possibly–and this is just a guess–the fork is just sliding the gear enough to make you think it is in position but the teeth have not meshed with the main gear. I would think that when the gears get ready to contact there would be some resistance before feeling it engage when switching it manually. Don’t forget to chock the front wheels!
I have driven trucks with 2 speed rears, that if the truck was on a hill I could hear it clank when working the button-shift but not fully engage, unknown to me. When I'd go to take off, the truck would roll slightly–as it was in a neutral position–then I'd feel the truck buck a little, telling me it was between gears but then fixed itself when the truck rolled a bit. This is why I suggested rotating the wheels while switching it manually. I have driven both pneumatic and electric 2 speeds and have had the same results. 2 speeds can be finicky sometimes.
I have driven trucks with 2 speed rears, that if the truck was on a hill I could hear it clank when working the button-shift but not fully engage, unknown to me. When I'd go to take off, the truck would roll slightly–as it was in a neutral position–then I'd feel the truck buck a little, telling me it was between gears but then fixed itself when the truck rolled a bit. This is why I suggested rotating the wheels while switching it manually. I have driven both pneumatic and electric 2 speeds and have had the same results. 2 speeds can be finicky sometimes.
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From: Mandan, ND
[QUOTE=archifx;14416405]Interesting, the reason I decided to pop the servo off of the axle and put it into high manually was because it wasn't working at all. There's no power getting to the little motor so in lieu of plopping down $250 for new servo motor I decided to switch it manually, I don't think it reverted itself back into low, but it definitely does not feel any different when driving it now that its "supposed" to be in high.
The way it is now, I have to immediately shift into 2nd around 2mph. Currently first gear is merely a crawler gear and they're all pretty lousy in terms of speed all the way through 4th.
Is the "high" gear setting noticeably different than low?[/QUOTE]
Yes, I grew up driving grain trucks with 2 speed rearends, both with five and four speeds. You know when you hit high (or low), whether you split shift or just kick it in high (or low) in road gear.
Most two speeds have a difference of almost 1.50:1 from low to high.
The way it is now, I have to immediately shift into 2nd around 2mph. Currently first gear is merely a crawler gear and they're all pretty lousy in terms of speed all the way through 4th.
Is the "high" gear setting noticeably different than low?[/QUOTE]
Yes, I grew up driving grain trucks with 2 speed rearends, both with five and four speeds. You know when you hit high (or low), whether you split shift or just kick it in high (or low) in road gear.
Most two speeds have a difference of almost 1.50:1 from low to high.
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