Here is a step-by-step write-up for replacing power window motors:

Tools and supplies needed:
8mm socket and ratchet
4 1/4-20 1 inch long bolts
4 Nyloc nuts
7/16 wrench and deep socket with ratchet
White lithium grease
Philips screwdriver
Small Straight edge screwdriver
Plastic door panel removal tool
Large and small Punch
Hammer
Pro-grip squeeze clamp
Electric drill
Drill bit
Wire crimper and 2 14-16 gauge (red) butt connectors
Wire cutters
Rubber tape
Finally----Patience!!

1. Remove the door panel by removing the 1 Philips screwdriver located in the grab indentation on the arm rest, and then insert the door panel removal tool around the outside of the door panel to pop the plastic rivets out of the metal door. Then lift up and slide the door panel forward around the door handle. There will be a rubber grommet around the door handle that will need to be removed to make the removal easier. Then unplug the power window switch and power door lock if so equipped.

2. Once removed, it should look like this:


3. Next carefully remove the paper moisture barrier. There will be 5 Phillips screws holding the lower part of the lower door panel on. You can remove this if you wish, and I recommend it after having screwed up myself for not doing it, and you'll soon see why.

With the barrier removed, it should look like this:





4. Once the paper barrier is removed, it's time to STOP...HAMMER TIME!! Just kidding . But no really, it's time to grab the hammer. The 4 rivets you see will need to be first hammered flat with the big punch. Then tapped through with the smaller punch.



Once hammered flat, they will look like this:





Next you will need to grab your smaller punch and punch the rivet in. **If you have a helper, they can catch the rivets so they don't fall down into the bottom of your door and then rattle later on**

5. Before you drill the rivets off, you will need to grab your Pro-grip squeeze clamp and clamp the window in place. This will keep the window in place and prevent it from falling down into your door and possibly shattering.

I found the best way to attach the clamp is to go through the vent window. This is also a beneficial way of holding the window because you don't need to take a measurement for a piece of wood to be in your way in the door while you're trying to work on it. It is also very easy to release the clamp and adjust the window later on when you put everything back together. It's almost like having a 2nd set of hands to hold the window for you. Also, the Pro Grip clamp is padded on each end, so it's perfect for glass. **DO NOT THINK YOU CAN USE A C-CLAMP AND BE FINE, YOU WILL DAMAGE YOUR GLASS**



6. With the clamp in place, now it's time to grab your drill and drill the heads of the rivets off. My rivets stayed in place while drilling, but rivets are known to spin when you don't want them to while trying to drill them out, so you may have to either reach around inside the door and hold onto them with your screwdriver, or have your friend do this.



**Another reason to remove the paper barrier fully, because when you drill, you will get shavings EVERYWHERE!!! It the tape is still there, they will stick to it, and they will be there FOREVER, so don't do what I did. Otherwise it'll end up looking like this:


Your rivets should look like this after you have drilled them:



After drilling the heads of the rivets off, you may have to grab your Philips screwdriver and tap the rivets through to let the motor and assembly fall. Again, having friend around to help hold the motor and arm in place I highly recommend, otherwise you could damage your door from the inside.

Here's what it will look like with the rivets removed:



7. I was having the worst time trying to get the motor and arm assembly out of the door, pulling my hair out!! . I figured out, to get everything to come out, you will need to remove the arm rest piece.



It makes it much easier to remove then. One Philips screw holds it in. Set it aside.

You will also need to slide the arm out of the bottom of the track to remove it:





8. Now with the motor and arm removed, you will need to unbolt the motor from the arm. 3 8mm bolts and it'll be free.





Once the motor is removed, now is a great time to make sure you have the correct side. Because as you can see here, O' Reilly's gave me the driver's side.



Once you have the correct motor:



**Depending on where you bought your new motor from** O' Reilly's gave me a re-manufactured one, that needed to have the factory connector spliced in. So you will need to cut your old plug off and splice it on the new motor. Their idea of connectors needed to splice the wire together was downright scary. I wouldn't trust a splice job using their hardware in a heartbeat, so I suggest using PROPER wiring hardware for this job. I'm sure any ACE or Home Depot will have the correct hardware needed for this job. No sense in doing it twice right? I also suggest taping the wires to the side of the motor (like how the factory did it) to make sure they don't get caught up anywhere.

Put some white lithium grease on the gear before bolting back on the track. This will help in the future with any wear and tear. Bolt the motor back to the arm with the 3 8mm bolts you removed earlier.

Now it's time to gather the rest of your hardware:



9. Here's where it can get frustrating...and I mean VERY frustrating. So don't forget to bring your patience, because you'll need it!

Since we drilled the factory rivets out, now we need to reattach the arm assembly to the door. Here is where the bolts will go:



1 inch bolts are the perfect length, because they don't interfere with the door panel.

First you will need to grease up the track of the door, and the end of the arm where it slides in the track with white lithium grease. Having your helper nearby also helps with this process. The problem I noticed while trying to install the arm and motor back into the door was the slider kept falling out of the track. Do not think you can just put it in the track later, because it HAS TO go in the track first before you bolt the arm back to the door. You will need the ignition on for this process. Plug the motor in, not only to test the motor but also to maneuver the assembly around in the door while you get the holes lined up. After fighting with it for almost 30 minutes and having the slider fall out of the track several times, I FINALLY got it bolted in!!







Now test everything again, and make sure it's not binding up anywhere, and that the arm moves freely. Now would also be a great time to inspect the window track and see if it needs to be put back in the channel or if anything else needs to be addressed while you have everything apart.

10. Put it all back together. If you didn't heed my advice about the lower door panel and the tape, after brushing it and hitting it with some compressed air, this was the best I could get it to look:



(Also, while blowing it all out...not only did some of it go down into my door, but also into the interior as well)

Thanks for reading.

 

Thanks, SVT. Reps for this (I know how much work they can be to create).

I moved this into the HOWTOs subforum....

 

A shortcut that I learned years ago when I worked at a Ford dealer will save having to pull the regulator assembly. After pulling the door trim panel off , depending on the model you will be able to see some of the bolts that hold the motor to the regulator. On some models you may not be able to see all of them but there will be small dimples that are made in the metal door panel. You can drill access holes with a large drill bit and remove the motor and install the new motor. You can see 1 of the dimples that I am talking about in the 4th picture that you posted. The dimple is to the left of the rivet that you have circled. I do recommend wearing long sleeves though as the edges of the metal panel can be sharp. If you use a large enough drill bit you can use a 1/4 drive extension and socket through the access holes. I used a small piece of paper wrapped around the bolt head and then pushed it into the socket to hold the bolt in place to get it started through the panel. The next time that I have to replace a window motor I will try to take pictures of the dimples to make it clear where they are. Do so at your own risk though as I accept no liability for any injuries !

 

I'd recommend removing the regulator anyway, so then the track can be greased. Also with my method, you don't have to worry about getting cut.

 

It is just another option but everyone has their own methods. You did a great job on the post and pictures also ! I usually lubed regulator and tracks with spray grease. I was not knocking your method just giving another option that could be easier. Anytime you are working in the door panels like that you take a chance of getting cut as a lot of those edges are sharp !