Battery drains overnight.
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Battery drains overnight.
My battery goes dead if I leave the negative hooked up overnight. I started my '99 Expedition and took the negative cable off while it was running. Since it did not die I assume that it is not my alternator. I got my test light out and hooked the clamp to my negative cable and put the needle on the negative post. It lit up and I started pulling fuses one at a time. The only fuse that significantly dimmed the light was my #103 50A Junction Block Battery Feed. Don't really know where to go from there. Any ideas?
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How would I fix this problem? Can I simply pull the fuse for the rear wiper?
EDIT:
My rear wiper does not work. We took the nut off and tried to take it off. Even when we pushed the wiper down it still had a draw on the battery. I was thinking of taking the back hatch panel off and disconnecting the wires?
EDIT:
My rear wiper does not work. We took the nut off and tried to take it off. Even when we pushed the wiper down it still had a draw on the battery. I was thinking of taking the back hatch panel off and disconnecting the wires?
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In the fuse box under the hood, pull fuses #12, #212, and #213 those are the ones for the rear wiper.
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Pulled fuses #12, #212, and #213 under the hood and disconnected the rear wiper in the back hatch. I put the test light on while I pulled the fuses out and the light is still bright. Any ideas or is it suppose to be bright?
EDIT: I took the Exp to work today. It died once when I made a hard left to turn in to a parking stall and died twice while I was backing into my driveway. Don't know what could cause this either.
EDIT: I took the Exp to work today. It died once when I made a hard left to turn in to a parking stall and died twice while I was backing into my driveway. Don't know what could cause this either.
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Pulled fuses #12, #212, and #213 under the hood and disconnected the rear wiper in the back hatch. I put the test light on while I pulled the fuses out and the light is still bright. Any ideas or is it suppose to be bright?
EDIT: I took the Exp to work today. It died once when I made a hard left to turn in to a parking stall and died twice while I was backing into my driveway. Don't know what could cause this either.
EDIT: I took the Exp to work today. It died once when I made a hard left to turn in to a parking stall and died twice while I was backing into my driveway. Don't know what could cause this either.
If the battery is then weak and the alternator stops charging/feeding the electrical system, the truck will stop running.
Once charged, you might start it in the driveway and watch your alternator gauge. You will see it bounce back and forth eventually once warmed up.
It might take 10 minutes or so.
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Lead Driver
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First , you should NEVER disconnect the battery on a modern vehicle while running ! ( unless in an emergency ) You can damage electronic components . 2nd , when doing a draw test you need to give time for all modules to reboot and go into sleep mode . 3rd , the proper way to test for draw on newer vehicles is to use a DVOM set to DC amps .
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Tennessee
If it has a computer ... It IS a modern vehicle 
. Your truck has a couple ..... Voltage spikes from disconnecting the battery while running can damage components .
. Your truck has a couple ..... Voltage spikes from disconnecting the battery while running can damage components .
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Tennessee
Yes , the battery absorbs any variance in the charging , within normal charge rates . When the battery is suddenly removed from the loop , the alternator will go full charge before the electronics can take over . Damage can happen in that time .
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This can be the result of a stuck IAC valve. If the IAC valve is stuck then it can not respond to those added load demands at idle and the result is the engine stalls.