Howdy all. I know that the there is a debate about Dorman versus international up-pipes. My original pipes were leaking and at this point the International's are out of my price range. Everyone says that stock will just be replaced soon, and the Dorman's were about $165 with discounts and all from Advance Auto, so if there's the possibility of replacing either way, I decided to give them a try. If they eventually leak, I'll have to do it again, of course, but now I know how, so there's that.

In any event, they came without installation instructions. Not a problem, except for torque specs. Does anyone know what the 10 mm bolts at the y-connector and 30 mm bolts at the exhaust manifold should be torqued to? Chat with Dorman products was unhelpful. They . don't . appear . to . know! When I asked I got:

All of the exhaust torque specs i can find call out between 26-32 ft'lbs.

The Y pipes are not mentioned, but I would go with a value in that range for these as well

I answered:

That's a little troubling since the whole point of the bellowed up pipes is to eliminate leaks and the gasket at the y connector the point of most danger. The international version of this part calls for 21 at the y-connector and 19 at the exhaust manifold. Is there a pdf giving installation instructions for this kit?

And then:

I do not have one, no. And these are not called out specifically in the service manual.

So, what now? The international pipes list 21 at the y-connector and 19 at the exhaust manifold. Should I follow this. Does anyone else who used Dorman's have any input?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

I can't see anywhere there is 30mm bolt....maybe 30mm long though. I'd go with the International specs......you're going to probably the only person that puts a torque wrench on them though.

 

Oops! Sorry, I meant 13 mm bolt at the bottom. 30 would be pretty big, indeed! But I'm intrigued by the other comment. I'm a bit new to this area of the engine, and thought that the torque was more crucial there. Plus, I didn't want to strip the bolts (having done that before, alas) so I didn't think I could just happily twist away. So minus the torque wrench, which it occurs to me will be pretty hard to fit into some of those spots anyway, I should just go until they are kind of firm-ish?

 

Ooooops...duplicated what someone else posted already.

 

I also use a torque wrench on every bolt I turn. I used the IH specs and my dorman pipes are holding strong. 6 months and a couple thousand miles...

 

Since you've done this, let me ask one more ignorant question. The guides all say check for leaks when you are done. Is this just an eyeball check, or do you spray water on it (in those oh so tight quarters) or what? I'm not sure what I'm looking for. It's an old truck (best part!) so I can't run it for a bit and then look for the one spot I wouldn't eat off of, it being a bit of a sooty, oily mess here and there (the oil or fuel in the valley is my next task ... just got the truck). Thanks.

 

For the up pipes, I painted them with high temp Silver paint. Real easy to see oil spray or soot.

As for the valley, do it all at one time. To get the up pipes out, you have to pull the I/C tunes, spyder, turbo and turbo pedestal. Might as well use it as a time to R/R all the top end that needs attention. Don't forget I/C boots. The silicon version will hold a lot better then the older stock options.

 

[QUOTE=brichert;14082371]Since you've done this, let me ask one more ignorant question. The guides all say check for leaks when you are done.

when done fire it up and put your hands around the pipes at all joints and you will feel air if there is a leak but do it quickly before they heat up to much!

 

When I went to do my pipe ups for the first time I said to myself as long as I have it all taken apart I may as well replace this which lead to that ! Next thing you know I am sanding and painting my valley so I can see when there is a leak. A bit over kill but I am glad I did. I painted the valley gray so I could see leaks easier. I Hate Leaks !!!

I ended up replacing:
* All HPO galley Orings, HPOP line fittings, the updated Orings on HPO galley plugs. The HPO galley plugs are on the front & back of heads.
* T500 HPOP
* Modded banjo bolt & replaced Orings
* Rebuild fuel bowl & replaced all fuel line sleeves (oring)
* Rebuilt turbo, blank pedestal and new Orings
* New syder boots
These are all things that can and will leak and I would rather NOT deal with something leaking later.
This kit would cover I think most the orings.
"Mechanics Parts Cabinet" Combo kit - Riffraff Diesel Performance

Now as far as checking for leaks do like Wes said with your hand or build a boost leak tester. There are threads out on that.

 

So that's where I'm headed huh? Guess I'll wait 'til it warms up a bit before I tackle the uppies.

 

That's pretty nice. The better half is ready for the project to be over while I'm having the same problem ... since I've got this out I might as well replace that ... So far I rebuilt the turbo, and have pulled the pedestal and will replace the o-rings. I'll pop in HPO o-rings while it's opened up. Do I need to rebuild the EBV on the pedestal as well? I wasn't going to replace the I/C boots as they looked ok albeit dirty. I thought that meant something else was spraying filth on them, but reading a bit more, perhaps this means that they are leaking as well? Am I right that the general feeling is to replace?

Insofar as the fuel bowl and HPOP go, I was planning to rebuild them as well, but after I have the rest put back together. The rig has been sitting for a while now, without being started and it makes me a little nervous to let it sit there for another month. We have a 10 month old at home as well as 3 other kiddos, so as soon as I get elbow deep in oil there is some crisis in the house and I have to put everthing on hold.

Speaking of HPOP, can one get away without servicing the -ahem- nonserviceable plug? For some reason, that part gives me a bit of apprehension that I'll mess it up.

Thanks for all the help!

 

4 kids and a wife sounds like you have your hands full. With that being said lucky you have the cash to do what you are to your truck. It may hurt now doing the old "One thing leads to another" but in the end you will be happy you did. Besides you don't want something going bad when you are on the road with your family in it. Then you would be kicking yourself for sure.

Now as far as your pedestal & EBV you can get a rebuild kit for it for around $100. I myself went with blank pedestal and I will never have to worry again about it leaking. I can live without a EBV and I went with a HiFlow turbine outlet.

My HPOP had something leaking I think it was the nonserviceable plug so instead of having the "What if it still leaks" that is why I bite the bullet and got the T500. It was money well spent and my truck was happy too with it.

Keep up the good work !