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I removed Floyd's engine today and will put it on an engine stand.
The four bolts that hold the bell housing on seem to be the only bolts that can be used for the stand. I did a test mount leaving the hoist attached and with all the weight on the stand it seemed to work but, man oh man, was I ever nervous.
Are these the four bolts that attach the stand?
The engine is complete at this moment, with carburetor and exhaust manifolds still attached. I will be taking the exhaust manifolds off the moment I feel confident in leaving the engine only attached to the stand
Two bolts down at the crank centerline, two up high as possible. Is your stand a three wheeled or four? It never hurts to be careful when rolling it around, especially with a three-wheeler. Make sure the bolts into the engine go in at least 1/2".
That looks like a great way to do it. I have the cast aluminum adapter that holds it sideways by bolting into the forward and rear exhaust manifold bolts. Then you flip the engine end over end, like a somersault. I was always under the belief that mounting it conventionally as you have shown wasn't possible. Maybe the aluminum mount has some advantages, but not sure I can think of them. Thanks for the photos!
The stand is 4 wheel with the back wheels quite a bit wider than the stance of the front.
The four bell housing bolts align as you suggest Ross. The top right bolt goes into the block while the upper left and bottom bolt into a thinner casting that makes up the bell housing.
I stick a piece of 2x4 between the front of the engine and the stand/ground - I measure the distance and the cut the zx4 about a 1/8 inch longer - I don't know if it helps or not but I feel better
I stick a piece of 2x4 between the front of the engine and the stand/ground - I measure the distance and the cut the zx4 about a 1/8 inch longer - I don't know if it helps or not but I feel better
I had another motor on a stand for two years and not even a droop. I had mine on it for months and worked on it while on the stand. New harmonic balancer, oil pan, timing cover, etc. Never a problem for me. Letting it go of the hoist though is always a tense moment...
My only advice is to use a 4 wheeled stand , and point out that the side mounts that bolt on at the exhaust manifold location allow you to rotate the engine into a position that is advantageous for pressure washing all the sand and rust out of the back end of the casting .
Now that a nice engine stand. The best engine stand that I ever had I welded up in high school back in 66, you could hang anything on it. The sad news is that I sold it with an engine years ago. The newer stands just don't act like they will handle the rated loads, here is an example. The weight is well within the limits of the stand but I would not dare move it unless I had my hoist attached and some help. The stands just kind of moans when you put that much weight on, well you know what I mean.
My only advice is to use a 4 wheeled stand , and point out that the side mounts that bolt on at the exhaust manifold location allow you to rotate the engine into a position that is advantageous for pressure washing all the sand and rust out of the back end of the casting .
That type only works on flathead V8s. ah, ya beat me to it!
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