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3.5L Ecoboost Misfires Latest Information

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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 04:33 PM
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3.5L Ecoboost Misfires Latest Information

Here is the latest of what we are seeing at the dealers on this issue. If yours is having these issues which may be intermittent take a close look at the items listed. Also this is a ongoing issue which Ford Engineers are still going after. There are a few fuel injector issues but not many it all seems to be on the ignition side of things and the water in the intake from the intercooler is a whole other issue they are still working on and I go over the latest design on that as well. The new issue with age on these is spark plug cracks something so small will likely go overlooked by the technician or DIY type and they usually cause intermittent misfires like this one. It is something to look at if you are having any of these ongoing issues......

 
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 06:31 PM
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I had a misfire from plugs so did a friend of mine's Eco his dealer told him Eco should get plugs every 50k miles that seems to do the trick too. I waited til 58k and soon as I was past 50 I noticed it
 
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 07:37 PM
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Nice video!
 
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 10:38 PM
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Remember new plugs and points, rotor and condenser, distributor cap and wires time.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 12:18 PM
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Man oh man Youtube cut off last 3 min of video, I re uploaded it and relinked the full video now, sorry about the last one and how it just cut off at the end.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Papa Tiger
Remember new plugs and points, rotor and condenser, distributor cap and wires time.
Not to mention cleaning the carb and the linkages plus adjusting the choke.

Back to the plugs, I haven't done any exploratory work under the hood of
my truck. So the question I have; are the plugs something easily changed,
or are we talking special tools and training?

I never bought the idea of 100,000 miles on plugs, so thanks for the info
on the need to change them at half that interval.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Truckpilot1329
Not to mention cleaning the carb and the linkages plus adjusting the choke.

Back to the plugs, I haven't done any exploratory work under the hood of
my truck. So the question I have; are the plugs something easily changed,
or are we talking special tools and training?

I never bought the idea of 100,000 miles on plugs, so thanks for the info
on the need to change them at half that interval.
They are almost too easy on these to change everything is right out in the open, regular ole 5/8" spark plug socket, no breakage issues, it's great.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 09:39 PM
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Thanks for the info. I appreciate the video.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by makuloco2000
They are almost too easy on these to change everything is right out in the open, regular ole 5/8" spark plug socket, no breakage issues, it's great.
Do you recommend using the Ford OE plug or going aftermarket on these engines?

If the plugs are cracking in some cases, will that have an effect on the COP?

Thanks for posting sir!
 
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 12:24 PM
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Also.. with the aluminum heads are people using anti-seize on spark plugs? Good video. Since I am at 50K, I will be changing spark plugs this week. BTW... after my second stumble/water condensation issue the dealer performed the latest TSB which is the lower cover plate over intercooler. I will see if it makes a difference or not. I haven't driven much after install.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by makuloco2000
They are almost too easy on these to change everything is right out in the open, regular ole 5/8" spark plug socket, no breakage issues, it's great.
Is it that easy on the car version of the EB 3.5? I just turned over 70k on a 2010 SHO and every once and a while it seems like it's not idling as smooth as it used to. I figure I can change the plugs and see if it helps as it's due @ 100k anyway.

But I know on a lot of FWD Fords (like the wife's 3.0 Escape) you have to take the intake manifold off to get to the back bank.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 12:50 PM
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I watched some of your other videos and I really like your methods of instruction. There needs to be more techs like you that will take the time to video these repairs for people to be able to work on their own trucks and cars out of warranty. Great job! (I attempted to rep you but I am in rep jail)
 
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 03:22 PM
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Just changed mine out. Took about an hour. Super easy. My porcelain didn't have any cracks but the gap on all six plugs was about .040. I used the Motorcraft plugs so there were no issues with warranty. CYFS-12-Y-3 is the plug number. $8.62 ea at stealer.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by tseekins
Do you recommend using the Ford OE plug or going aftermarket on these engines?

If the plugs are cracking in some cases, will that have an effect on the COP?

Thanks for posting sir!
I have not seen them damage the cop yet as they are usually very intermittent. I am a dealer tech so all I know is ford oem so yes oem for sure.

Originally Posted by Skoiv
Also.. with the aluminum heads are people using anti-seize on spark plugs? Good video. Since I am at 50K, I will be changing spark plugs this week. BTW... after my second stumble/water condensation issue the dealer performed the latest TSB which is the lower cover plate over intercooler. I will see if it makes a difference or not. I haven't driven much after install.
These new fancy plugs supposedly have some nickel plating on them but I still use a bit of antisieze on them as a force of habit.

Originally Posted by itguy08
Is it that easy on the car version of the EB 3.5? I just turned over 70k on a 2010 SHO and every once and a while it seems like it's not idling as smooth as it used to. I figure I can change the plugs and see if it helps as it's due @ 100k anyway.

But I know on a lot of FWD Fords (like the wife's 3.0 Escape) you have to take the intake manifold off to get to the back bank.
Not so on the Taurus sho, there are some vapor and or pcv lines back there but the intake is designed for forced induction and therefor does not have the long runners so it is all in the middle and does not hang over the rear bank like on the escapes etc.

Originally Posted by PrinceValium
I watched some of your other videos and I really like your methods of instruction. There needs to be more techs like you that will take the time to video these repairs for people to be able to work on their own trucks and cars out of warranty. Great job! (I attempted to rep you but I am in rep jail)
Thanks for the kind words, I definitely try to be different and detailed in my videos to help the common working man.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2014 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by makuloco2000

Not so on the Taurus sho, there are some vapor and or pcv lines back there but the intake is designed for forced induction and therefor does not have the long runners so it is all in the middle and does not hang over the rear bank like on the escapes etc.
Thanks. Been a while since I had the cover off on the SHO but I remember it being surprisingly clean. I think in the summer I'll tackle the sparkplugs on it.
 
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