Brake Pads/Rotors Recommendations
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 597
Likes: 1
Brake Pads/Rotors Recommendations
Hello,
I am on my 2nd Ex and the brakes are going to get replaced. With my first EX I went with factory OEM pads/rotors because it was at the dealership and I although I read that factory rotors used to be prone for warping I thought my brakes worked good except on my first trip out towing my 9K travel trailer going down a big hill in TN on my first strong application of brakes the pedal started to vibrate from what I assumed what rotor warpage because of heat and I noticed some brake fade. It had me really concerned because I wasn't riding the brakes and if I needed more stopping power it might not have been there. What are some recommendations of rotors and brake pads for an occasional tow vehicle?
I am on my 2nd Ex and the brakes are going to get replaced. With my first EX I went with factory OEM pads/rotors because it was at the dealership and I although I read that factory rotors used to be prone for warping I thought my brakes worked good except on my first trip out towing my 9K travel trailer going down a big hill in TN on my first strong application of brakes the pedal started to vibrate from what I assumed what rotor warpage because of heat and I noticed some brake fade. It had me really concerned because I wasn't riding the brakes and if I needed more stopping power it might not have been there. What are some recommendations of rotors and brake pads for an occasional tow vehicle?
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 7,460
Likes: 85
From: Kent Station, WA
I am using powerslot slotted cryo treated rotors and hawk lts pads up front. In rear are hawk pads and oreilly rotors. Setup works great however I have not towed any thing heavy yet. Alot of super duty/excursion folks use the Powerslot Hawk LTS pad setup.
There have been multiple threads on this before, next time try the search function.
There have been multiple threads on this before, next time try the search function.
is a BAAAD MAN
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,738
Likes: 5
From: Winston Salem NC
I have the EBC pads and really like them, O'Smelly's rotors. I have almost the same camper as you, it helps to put it in a lower gear going down those big hills, and I use the manual brake lever some too.
Good luck!!
Good luck!!
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,790
Likes: 24
From: Mount Royal, NJ
Read my reply on this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-upgrades.html
The exact same problem I had with a trailer and hills.
Problem solved.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-upgrades.html
The exact same problem I had with a trailer and hills.
Problem solved.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 456
Likes: 6
My recommendation are
EBC Turbo Groove Front and Rear
ebc turbo groove,black, ford excursion | eBay
and matching
EBC Yellow Stuff Front and Rear
This really makes a extreme dfference when you need to throw an anchor.
EBC Turbo Groove Front and Rear
ebc turbo groove,black, ford excursion | eBay
and matching
EBC Yellow Stuff Front and Rear
This really makes a extreme dfference when you need to throw an anchor.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,955
Likes: 6
From: Eastern PA
I use the cheapest that advance auto parts has. I've found that after 235k miles, all but the best has roughly the same life and you'll be replacing them every 2 years or so regardless.
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Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 10,101
Likes: 40
From: Pa
I have been running Raybestos Advance Technology R-300 rotors (slotted rotor)and Hawk SD pads on all 4 corners for around 15months now. Thus far they have worked very well. The rotors are around $100 each from Rockauto. Got the pads from AutoAnything.
I have experienced what you did with steering wheel shaking going down hill with my OE brakes when going down mountains at higher speeds. I even glazed the pads a couple times. These new pads and rotors take more abuse and bite harder. Also make sure to flush the brake system with new fluid. I use the Motorcraft DOT3 because the boiling point is high and it is not awful expensive.
I have experienced what you did with steering wheel shaking going down hill with my OE brakes when going down mountains at higher speeds. I even glazed the pads a couple times. These new pads and rotors take more abuse and bite harder. Also make sure to flush the brake system with new fluid. I use the Motorcraft DOT3 because the boiling point is high and it is not awful expensive.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Bay Area, Ca
Oops, your right I mispoke. Sorry bout that. Just seen him and his company on here and other sites so often helping all of us out and jumped to the conclusion. Sorry.
He did help me out and I will be buying from him again.
He did help me out and I will be buying from him again.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 889
Likes: 1
From: Ithaca
I put Power slot Cryo treated rotors and Hawk Pads (yellow SD?) they have been on for about 25,000 miles, Great stopping low dust and noise free so far. No pulsing either. Love this set up. I have another set I got on sale a while ago waiting to go on when needed.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,790
Likes: 24
From: Mount Royal, NJ
Yeah. you know your brakes have issues when you slam them to the floor while on pavement and the ABS never kicks in, even though the ABS works just fine on gravel or dirt.
Definitely time for some maintenance.
Definitely time for some maintenance.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 340
Likes: 0
replace the hoses with braided steel lines and flush the system first.
See what difference that makes... then move onto rotors and pads.
Ive just recently been down this trail and went from the other end. I am sure my increased performance is a combination of all things but the hoses and fluid flush really made a huge difference.
See what difference that makes... then move onto rotors and pads.
Ive just recently been down this trail and went from the other end. I am sure my increased performance is a combination of all things but the hoses and fluid flush really made a huge difference.
New User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
My opinion on brakes with this truck is that you need a harder pad than the rotor itself. It's my understanding that the pulsing through the pedal are deposits of brake pad left behind on the rotor surface because the rotor is harder than the pad. My experience has been with NAPA rotors, and Hawk LTS pads, or stock all around. The LTS pads made a huge difference, and I've had absolutely no pulsing through about 20,000 miles, and braking power that makes driving the Ex a much more pleasurable experience. Just be sure to bed these things correctly.
Next thing as recommended by others, was a fluid flush and lines. I don't have stainless lines on the truck, but my past experience on every other car is that I should. The Motul RBF I put in the truck did make a big difference in pedal feel and firmness over old fluid, even with the stock lines.
Good luck!
Next thing as recommended by others, was a fluid flush and lines. I don't have stainless lines on the truck, but my past experience on every other car is that I should. The Motul RBF I put in the truck did make a big difference in pedal feel and firmness over old fluid, even with the stock lines.
Good luck!