94 Ranger XLT - Transmission issues...
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94 Ranger XLT - Transmission issues...
So! I have a 1994 Ranger XLT 3.0 Automatic...
When engaging the Transmission into anything when its cold, even pulling up to a light or a stop sign, you have to rev it a few times before it engages. Will go away once in a while
I was thinking it is the Torque converter but, maybe it is the valve body. Fluid is full and bright red.
I want a 5speed manual in it. Probably about time to do it unless you guys think it would be something cheap to fix?
When engaging the Transmission into anything when its cold, even pulling up to a light or a stop sign, you have to rev it a few times before it engages. Will go away once in a while
I was thinking it is the Torque converter but, maybe it is the valve body. Fluid is full and bright red.
I want a 5speed manual in it. Probably about time to do it unless you guys think it would be something cheap to fix?
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
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From: SW Va
Do you have an OD light blinking???? If so, you have trouble codes stored in the tranny computer, so have a trusted tranny shop scan the tranny computer & post up All trouble code Numbers, as they can offer up good trouble shooting clues.
When last was the tranny filter & full fluid pump out done. Our vintage rides are scheduled for 30k mile fluid & filter changes.
Even though the fluid looks ok, it doesn't take much to muck things up in our tranny, so maybe something in the valve body is gummed, or varnished up, or maybe the tranny filter is plugged up if line pressure is low.
When last was the tranny filter & full fluid pump out done. Our vintage rides are scheduled for 30k mile fluid & filter changes.
Even though the fluid looks ok, it doesn't take much to muck things up in our tranny, so maybe something in the valve body is gummed, or varnished up, or maybe the tranny filter is plugged up if line pressure is low.
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
Here is a link from our "Tech Info" thread on how to do a filter change & full fluid pump out. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-pump-out.html This is the procedure Ford used before getting their flush machine & it will get most all of the old fluid out of the valve body, torque converter, cooler & lines.
With the vehicle level, if we disconnect the tranny return line at the cooler & do the pan emptying pump out with the engine at idle before we raise the vehicle on stands for the pan drop, we can get most of the old fluid out & make the pan drop much less messy.
After replacing the filter & pan, if we level the vehicle & refill the pan with the same amount removed, we can idle the engine to complete the flush & remove about two qts at a time without running the tranny pump dry & it would appreciate that. If we do the service with the vehicle front end raised on ramps, or jack stands, we can only pump out about a qt at a time, as most fluid is back towards the rear of the tranny pan.
More thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.
With the vehicle level, if we disconnect the tranny return line at the cooler & do the pan emptying pump out with the engine at idle before we raise the vehicle on stands for the pan drop, we can get most of the old fluid out & make the pan drop much less messy.
After replacing the filter & pan, if we level the vehicle & refill the pan with the same amount removed, we can idle the engine to complete the flush & remove about two qts at a time without running the tranny pump dry & it would appreciate that. If we do the service with the vehicle front end raised on ramps, or jack stands, we can only pump out about a qt at a time, as most fluid is back towards the rear of the tranny pan.
More thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,907
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From: suburban atlanta
It is not the torque converter and is unlikely to be the valve body. When cold, seals inside are stiff and unwilling to conform to the surfaces they 'seal' to. As the fluid warms, the seals warm and get more flexible, allowing the seal edges to touch the walls a bit better.
In the biz, it was called 'morning sickness', and the only cure was to wait 9 months and repair the transmission. The nine months part was humor.
To repair, you need to remove and disassemble the transmission, R&R the seals, and put it back together. Most times, the clutches & steels will be replaced along with any other parts that normally fail or show excessive wear. T'ain't cheap as you are paying for tools, skills, knowledge, training, overhead, lifts, hot tank, power, light, compressed air and everything else at the shop that does the work. Plus the seal kit and any 'hard parts'. Even with contributed labor{mine}, fixing an A4LD cost close to $500 with a kit, input shaft, brazing, some thrust washers and the overdrive planetary. Plus fluid, filter and gasket. I did get a trans jack out of the deal, but it was ~$50. Sure did help.
tom
In the biz, it was called 'morning sickness', and the only cure was to wait 9 months and repair the transmission. The nine months part was humor.
To repair, you need to remove and disassemble the transmission, R&R the seals, and put it back together. Most times, the clutches & steels will be replaced along with any other parts that normally fail or show excessive wear. T'ain't cheap as you are paying for tools, skills, knowledge, training, overhead, lifts, hot tank, power, light, compressed air and everything else at the shop that does the work. Plus the seal kit and any 'hard parts'. Even with contributed labor{mine}, fixing an A4LD cost close to $500 with a kit, input shaft, brazing, some thrust washers and the overdrive planetary. Plus fluid, filter and gasket. I did get a trans jack out of the deal, but it was ~$50. Sure did help.
tom
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fletchb
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