Howdy all,


Ok, I'm back considering a 6.0L Truck/Excursion.

I know the 6.0L engine is considered (by *some*) a POS.

You could say that about a great many gasoline and diesel engines out there.

We all know that this is simply not true.

There are always some design "flaws" that after several years the aftermarket figures out and fixes.

To that end, I'd like to know what one does to "FIX" a 6.0L engine.

I have found the following so far.

1. Replace the EGR cooler with a stainless steel aftermarket cooler that doesn't fail (or remove it altogether......AND I don't want to argue the benefits or problems with EGR-cooler delete..... I know what they are.)

2. Replace the oil cooler with either the aftermarket improved cooler or eliminate it altogether and replace with the after market outboard oil-air cooler (or do BOTH according to the "Bullet-Proof" guys)

3. Replace the head gaskets with improved gaskets using ARP (or equivalent) studs.

From what I can tell to make the engine as reliable as any other light truck diesel, one must do the above 3 things.


What else is there?


Cheers,


Rick

 

Sounds like your on the right path. OEM head gaskets are fine. As long as you remain stock (no tuning) head bolts shouldn't be a problem if the other items you listed are addressed.

 

Keep up with preventative maintenance and it should be fine.

 

For what it's worth. As far as I know, (going off of the OASIS report and Previous owner testimony), my truck currently has 174,698 miles and I have the original Oil Cooler, EGR valve, Oil Cooler, Head Gaskets and studs.

This is a stock, no tuner 6.0. You could get lucky and not even have to worry about it. The key is to have the money set aside for when/if the time comes. Just my opinion. I am a new owner. Bought the truck when it had around 172,000 mi.

 

Personally I am of the opinion you should wait on head gaskets and studs until it is needed, unless you intend on running big tune on it. Depending on the model year and the build year of the engine will determine what you will want to do with it. The factory oil and EGR cooler are fine if you keep up on the cooling system maintenance. Having the FICM sent out to Ed at FICMrepair.com is a nice upgrade as he addresses the manufacturing defects that are in all FICM's ( this can also wait to be done until the FICM begins to show signs of failure as noted by the FICM main voltage dropping off ).



The best thing you can do for your 6.0L is get gauges that read live data like the scan gauge II or one of the smartphone apps like dashboss for IOS devices or torque pro for android, they are an absolute must have to keep an eye on things and will not only help you spot problems before they leave you sitting on the side of the road but will help you diagnose drivability issues as well as no start issues.

The next thing you need to do to ensure reliability is to keep up on the maintenance schedule and only use OEM/Racor oil and fuel filters, OEM oil filter cap and OEM air filters. Don't go cheap on maintenance or you will pay big time down the road. Also running full synthetic 5W-40 engine oil makes the injectors happy little campers.


Keep your charging system health by always changing batteries in pairs and always load test batteries separately.

 

Yes, if you are serious about getting a 6.0, definitely invest in one of the above. Even if you ended up with a gasser, you can still use the live gauges on it. It will help tremendously in buying a used 6.0. You can ensure that you aren't buying a vehicle with an already bad oil cooler/EGR cooler etc. You see a problem, you could pass on it, or negotiate a better deal.

 

No need to go buck wild buying parts that more than likely arent needed.

Digital gauges and go enjoy the engine.

If I bought another 6.0 I would upgrade the alternator and do a full coolant flush to ELC. Nothing more unless the digital gauges tell me otherwise. I would even likely lay off doing an EGR delete for a little while, gotta drive the truck, get to know it and enjoy it.


Josh

 

Depending on the year, there are different strengths and weaknesses, personally I prefer the strength side of the later 6.0s ('05+) and actually as late in the run is best. Ford kept improving things even after the main production run for the F series stopped, likely as they still had them in the E series.

Monitoring what's going on under the hood (esp. before purchase) is key. Many options exist, but if you have a droid device, buying an ODBII adapter (plugs in under the dash) and the Torque Pro app will set you back less than $20 and open up a world of info to you...

Routine flushing of the coolant system has proven to be key in preventing several issues (install a coolant filter and optionally change to EC-1 rated coolant). Clean oil is key as is clean fuel and using OEM filters. Also maintaining sufficient Injector voltage (something you can monitor) has proven to keep your injectors in the game longer -- this is everything from Battery health to Alternator output to the FICM itself sometimes failing (usually from the 1st two).

Ford itself upgraded the internal oil cooler, tho the problem of potentially clogging the passages on the coolant side is still there. This also is what usually leads to the EGR cooler failure, since the oil cooler and egr cooler are plumbed in series on the coolant side. While there are aftermarket units, they are just copies of the Ford internal one. Removing the internal cooler and going external is a whole different solution. Personally I stuck with the new OEM one, and that comes with a Ford upgraded oil pick up screen that is SS.

The early ('03s and some '04s) EGR cooler is roughly equivalent to what the bullet proof aftermarket ones are for later years. The plate/fin style internals are replaced with SS tubes like the early ones had. You want to replace the orange style coolant hose if it's still on there no matter what, with the later blue silicone hose.

Stock head gaskets are the preferred ones and ARPs only if you need them in my opinion.

Installing the Upgraded Ford fuel pressure regulator spring (aka: Blue Spring) and checking fuel pressure is key to injector life -- at least do the former.

If you get a later 6.0 there is a Snap-To-Connect (STC) fitting right off the high pressure oil pump that can blow off without much, if any, notice -- if it does it can take out the rear cast aluminum engine cover which requires at least a trans removal to replace. Ford has an upgraded part for a permanent fix to that too. As well as upgraded Stand Pipes and Dummy plugs, also on the HPO system.

Lessee, the HP oil pump and water pumps in early 6.0s are not as robust as later. You go AM for the oil and I think it's a simple upgrade for the water pump.

There's things like intake boots that get oily (normal) and weaken and blow, but there's inexpensive A/M replacements and the later 6.0s seem less prone to issues. Regular cleaning of EGR valve and Turbo is needed, oh and there is an earlier oil line to the turbo that is flexible that can go, recommend replacing at least that one if not both to the latest oil feed/return lines.

Back to monitoring: the oil cooler clogging can be diagnosed early by just knowing to watch the difference between oil temp and coolant temp under certain running conditions. If caught early enough, usually it's recommended to do a coolant flush and then go after a slew of these items (I did).

There's a ton of reading for you in the Tech Section, and you aren't new to FTE, so you know there's a ton of help here amongst the FTE 6.0 brotherhood (and a few sisters).

Good luck in your search and it's one heck of a motor once you get to know it!

 

That's true about the STC fitting... Dang it.

Josh

 

I've owned my 2005 f350 6.0 for two years with no problems until a recent surge issue, chalked to dirty ICP connector. That issue prompted me to purchase a Scangauge, best investment I've made in a while. Although ignorance can be bliss, I've found my oil cooler temp delta to be about twenty degrees higher than ECT on long cruises. Researching that problem, led me to the head gasket test, one hole rubber stopper with hose, in coolant reservoir to water bottle, and sure enough, small continuos bubbles. Believe I have a small head gasket leak.

That being said, I am on a similar path.

Flush coolant
Change oil cooler
Change EGR cooler (no delete)
Add coolant filter
Go in with ELC
Debating head gaskets (would appreciate input)
Stay on top of periodic maintenance
Enjoy the next 100k miles

 

imo if your that worried maybe lookin else were is a better awnser.

 

To clarify: you mean which ones to use, not if you should do them, right? OEM, OEM, OEM is the answer to the first and Yes is the answer to the second, and third is do the STC at least while you are in there to do the oil cooler, and are you talking a bullet proof "style" EGR cooler? If not I recommend you consider that over stock. Your EGR cooler gasket kit comes with the blue hose update, btw...

 

Thanks Diesel_Dan,

Concerning the head gaskets, if they are leaking, yes replace, however, I am not sure I diagnosed it correctly. That is where I was looking for input. BTW - truck is 100 % stock, no tunes.

From the hours of reading I have done, my plan was to get the coolant system top notch, filtered, new oil cooler, then regular maintenance after that point, watching EOT/ECT deltas, shouldn't have EGR cooler issues, stock or otherwise. Is that not correct?

Loud and clear on everything else, much appreciated.

 

I believe if you have a head gasket problem, you will be gurgling coolant from your degas bottle because your pressure will build higher than 16psi. It sounds right now that you definitely have a clogged oil cooler. If it keeps up, your EGR cooler is next.

I'm new to the 6.0 as well. Someone will correct me if I am wrong.

 

This guy is hated around here. Many call him a crackpot, say he's an idiot, but I learned a lot about the 6.0 by watching some of his videos.