Just picked up the truck a couple weeks ago - about $1500 invested. It runs (and moves), albeit a little roughly. It'll start okay, needs at least 5 minutes to warm up then will putter along okay. Doesn't seem to have much power at this point, but then again it hesitates under heavy throttle.

Kingpins are shot... and it's very nerve-wracking to attempt driving, likes to change directions without any notice. This forum looks to be a great resource with lots of knowledgeable people, so I'm thinking I'll find plenty of posts that'll help me along with the repairs (starting with tips/tricks on changing the kingpins ).

The details on the truck (many thanks to those on the forum that help everyone decode these, just from looking around I think I managed to decode my own) -

1966 F250 Camper Special
VIN: F25BE816598
W.B.: 129 / Color: J / Model: F250 / Body: E81 / Trans: G / Axle: 25 / Max GVW: 07500 / Cert Net HP: 150 / RPM: 3600 / DSO: 17

Decoded (that I can tell):
F25 = F250 – 2 wheel Drive;
B = 300 CID; I6
E = Assembled in Manwah, New Jersey;
816598 = I don’t know what to read into the assembly number…


W.B.: 129 = 129” wheel base, long bed pickup truck
Color: J = Rangoon Red
Model: F250 = duh
Body: E81 = Red vinyl bench seat; Custom Cab long bed
Trans: G = Automatic Transmission; I think Cruiso-O-Matic 3 speed auto.
Axle: 25 = 4.56 gear ratio, non-limited slip Spicer/Dana 60; 5200 lbs
Max GVW: 07500 = 7500 max weight (also 12” x 2 1/2” brakes – right?)
HP: 150/RPM: 3600 = 150 HP @ 3600 RPM
DSO: 17 = not sure where this says it was ordered/sold.



And a couple of other pics - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - Pleffnut's Album: New (old) 1966 F-250 Camper Special

 

welcome to FTE nice ride!
roy

 

Welcome aboard

Looks solid and has an original looking AM radio. Very nice!!

DSO 17 - Washington D.C.

Seems to tie in with your Maryland location all right.

 

Thanks, and yep - original AM radio. It still works and the original dash speaker still works too.

The truck is pretty solid, the only body rust I can find is on the bottom of the passenger door, other than that the prior owner did some patch work (some good... some not so good). Once I get it mechanically sound I'll get a basic paint job to at least give it a shine, hopefully won't uncover too much bondo.

Mechanically, the engine needs some TLC (although the head was cleaned-up with valve job), kingpins are shot and needs brake lines and brake adjusters.

 

Hi all, rather than constantly bug folks looking for simple things and/or part numbers and such I've been looking around for literature for the truck. I am curious if anyone has ordered the shop or parts manual(s) from fordmanuals.com?

http://www.fordmanuals.com/estore/sc...?idproduct=303

http://www.fordmanuals.com/estore/sc...?idproduct=348

They appear to be digital copies of the original books.

 

You can never have enough good information. The '66 shop manual on CD is available from several vendors. The current NPD catalog is selling it for $29.95 on page 270. My only problem with that is if you have bad luck with computer reliability and can't access it when you want it. The actual book is also available in 4 volumes on the same page for $100. I know it can be found a bit cheaper elsewhere. Another indispensable tool many people get is the 1964-72 Ford Truck Master Parts and Accessories Catalog on CD (on page 272) for $21.95 or thereabouts. You get an illustrated parts breakdown (diagrams) plus factory part numbers (that were current as of 1975 when it was printed) Here is a case where you really do want the CD as the books are over 6000 pages and cost a fortune when you can find them. There are also reproductions of some of the factory assembly manuals, wiring diagrams, and other useful tech data. You should get parts catalogs from Dennis Carpenter, LMC Truck, NPD, Carolina Classics, Mac's, John's F-Fun Hundreds, and several others to see what's available. Follow this forum to get views on whose parts are good quality and which ones are suspect.

 

Welcome to FTE

All 1966/72 F250 Camper Specials and F250's with a 7,500 GVW have 12" x 2 1/2" front/rear drum brakes.

If 1968/72 F250 2WD's have optional front disc brakes, the rear brakes are 12" x 2 1/2."

* The idiots at FoMoCo used the G TRANS code for all A/T's thru 1978. One had to know which trans was available with what engine.

Self adjusting brakes were not available for F250's until 1967. Be thankful your truck doesn't have them, they're a PITA! They only work (if they work at all!) when you back up and step on the brake pedal.

The self adjusting cable is notorious for snapping, the cable guide will then float around inside the drum. If it gets between the shoe and the drum and you step on the brake, it will chew up the drum and brake shoe.

The self adjuster wheels rust up solid within a very short time.

The original paint is acrylic enamel, can be rubbed out to look almost like new. Use DuPont white polishing compound, apply with a very damp sponge. Wring the sponge out frequently.

The 1964/72 Ford Truck Parts Catalog is available on a CD from hipoparts.com.

 

Thank you gentlemen for the additional information.

Unfortunately the faded paint that's on the truck isn't original that I might be able to clean up - it's a heavy coat of primer that will have to be sandblasted off.

I've ordered both of the manuals - and happy so far. A lot of information... hopefully will give me enough information to get Sanford (my neighbor coined a name for it... even though my truck is 15 years younger ) running and stopping smoothly here shortly.

 

Nice find! Your truck looks like its worth more than a "basic paint job". You'll want the quality of the exterior paint to match the quality of the original interior paint Ford applied at the factory, which means back down to bare metal and a solid coat of matching "Rangoon Red". Your Camper Special has some nice options, 300 six, C4 automatic and power brakes, however it also has the not so nice 4.56. Maybe swapping in a 3.54- 3.73 ratio rear axle from a early 70's F 250 should make it a nice all around driver and keeper.

 

Yeah, the rear-end is my main concern after I get the truck back in good running condition. Nothing like listening to the engine racing when I'm only going 55 mph...

 

Before jumping to the kingpins, maybe new tie rods/drag link will help the steering. That's what got mine more than manageable....even though the kingpins are loose.

 

Thanks, good advice. As everything down there is 40+ years old, I ordered everything yesterday to get the steering and suspension cleaned-up and tight including tie-rods, pivot and radius arm bushings, kingpins, and even new brake lines and adjuster kits (two brake adjusters are worn - 1 front 1 rear).

I figure if I'm gonna crawl under and dismantle the front end - I might as well get 'er all tightened up.