Rear end problems
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Senior User
Joined: May 2003
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From: Philadelphia
Rear end problems
I took my '96 EB Bronco into the shop today to get my U-joints checked and to order up an MLPS. I had been having some shifting issues for a while now and couldn't get anyone to figure it out. Finally found this forum the other day and think I found the problem. I also have a clunk whenever I start to accelerate or come to a stop. Thought that my U-joints were bad and had them checked out. Mechanic said they were fine and would replace the MLPS, but that my rear end has been taking a pounding because of the rough shifting. I have been taking it easy on her, but he did not leave me with much hope for keeping my Bronco alive. He said I would eventually have to sell her or get the rear end replaced. I am not very knowledgable about this stuff so I was hoping that someone could give me some idea of my options and the costs associated with it. Thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
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From: Memphis, TN
Rear end problems
Changing the rear axle is easy. It only took me & a friend ~3hrs last Saturday, and we spent a LOT of time BSing. Expect to pay $400-800 for an axle (check the Classifieds here), but you have to find one with your ratio (probably 3.55) from '87-96. You can find your ratio from the door sticker codes.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: SE Texas
Rear end problems
If you have the factory limited-slip in the rear axle (I'm fairly sure you do ), it could be the cause of your "clunking" noise. Any slack or play in the transmission shift linkage or internal wear can also add to the problem. I've learned to live with my clunks, and am still going after 200,000 miles! I do change u-joints often (25-30K miles), since these seem to take the abuse instead of my tranny or axles. Repairing the rear axle and installing a new LS will run about $600-$700 on average.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Vancouver WA
Rear end problems
Sell the Bronco because the rear end clunks? Did he offer to buy it from you? He's giving you a big load of BS is what he's doing. Make sure the yoke on the rear end it tight. Even if the rear is bad, it's definately not a bad enough situation to sell the Bronco. For a few hundred bucks you can replace it. Unless you plan on buying an older vehicle than what you have now, it would probably cost you more out of pocket to buy something else than fix what you've got.
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Las Vegas US
Rear end problems
What about the mild "clunk" usually heard from the limited slip rear end? I hear it whenever I leave a red light. I got under the truck, and fiddled with the drive shaft and found the slack is in the axle. It's only a small amount on mine, but it's enough to bug me. I know it's common but is there anything (easy) to do about it? New slip plates or something? Never had a L. slip apart so I'm clueless.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2003
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From: Philadelphia
Rear end problems
I had a feeling he was feeding me a load of crap, though he didn't charge me for checking it out. I got a E4OD and a 3.55 non-LS on there if that makes any difference. Thanks for all the help boys.
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Madison USA
Rear end problems
as far as that clunk, what about the good old slip joint in the rear driveshaft that isn't properly lubricated?? Take apart the driveshaft at the slip joint in the middle and grease/lube it up really well and put it back together, watch the clunk go away.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Memphis, TN
Rear end problems
Originally posted by Tronick
...mild "clunk" usually heard from the limited slip...
...mild "clunk" usually heard from the limited slip...
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
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From: Memphis, TN
Rear end problems
The additive is a "friction modifier" and makes the clutches wear better. It won't cause or prevent a clunk - that's a sign of a worn pinion shaft, gears, u-joint, carrier bearings, or loose pinion nut.
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: mpls Usa
Rear end problems
My 96 XLwith a 3.55 ls rear has the same sort of clunk from the drive line when taking off from a light as well, but it isn't harsh during a normal launch from a light. it just feels like there is some slack somewhere in the drive line.
At a light, if I hold the brake and bring the rpm's up just enough to put a small amount of torque on the wheels, just enough to feel it try to go, then back off again it doesnt "clunk"when the light turns green.
There is no noise or vibration at all while driving it , whether towing my 3000# camper or not. I dont find any sort of slack in the drive shaft, u-joints or rear end. since it doesnt seem to be getting any worse, and I usually dont drive like a wild banshee I'm not overly concerned but I do pay attention to it that it doesn't get any worse.
At a light, if I hold the brake and bring the rpm's up just enough to put a small amount of torque on the wheels, just enough to feel it try to go, then back off again it doesnt "clunk"when the light turns green.
There is no noise or vibration at all while driving it , whether towing my 3000# camper or not. I dont find any sort of slack in the drive shaft, u-joints or rear end. since it doesnt seem to be getting any worse, and I usually dont drive like a wild banshee I'm not overly concerned but I do pay attention to it that it doesn't get any worse.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 104
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From: Madison USA
Rear end problems
like i said, try lubricating the slip joint in the rear driveshaft! that will more than likely get rid of any clunking when started out mildly or harshly when no slack in driveline is found, TRUST ME
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Senior User
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From: Philadelphia
Rear end problems
forgive my ignorance, but where exactly is the slip joint?
Let me run my tranny problem by you guys as well....its an automatic E4OD. When I accelerate in first, it won't shift into second with my foot on the gas. It keeps going up past 3000 rpms. If I take my foot off the gas, let it drop below 2500, and then hit the throttle again, it will shift into second. Also when I put the pedal to the floor and go into passing gear, it drops into neutral. I first noticed it when I started her up in a heavy rain and heard a clunk from the transmission area. From what I've read it looks like I need to replace the MLPS. Does that sound right or am I way off?
Let me run my tranny problem by you guys as well....its an automatic E4OD. When I accelerate in first, it won't shift into second with my foot on the gas. It keeps going up past 3000 rpms. If I take my foot off the gas, let it drop below 2500, and then hit the throttle again, it will shift into second. Also when I put the pedal to the floor and go into passing gear, it drops into neutral. I first noticed it when I started her up in a heavy rain and heard a clunk from the transmission area. From what I've read it looks like I need to replace the MLPS. Does that sound right or am I way off?