1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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Old 05-19-2003 | 12:07 PM
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bed wood

i got a great deal on bed wood and strips at pf. what is the best product for finishing the wood. i have heard that you start with 25% spar varnish and 75% thiner, then 50 50 and so on to 100% varnish. is this the best way. whats with the cross wood strips on the 48 - 50 beds, it does not look like you have to do it that way.
 
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Old 05-19-2003 | 01:37 PM
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bed wood

I would suggest getting in touch with Bruce Horkey in Minn. I was always told to use teak oil instead of varnish as they tend to peal. However, when I spoke to Bruce at P.F., he said that teak oil is a lot of maintenance. He sells some kind of blend of marine varnish. I think he has researched and experimented with all of the things people suggest and has come up with some pretty good solutions. Send him an e-mail or call out to the shop. He probably on his way back to Minn now but, some one there should be able to help you or have him get back in touch with you.
 
  #3  
Old 05-20-2003 | 07:10 AM
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bed wood

Dale; The finish you apply will depend on what wood you are using and if it will be exposed to weather, ie. Rain,Dew,UV rays and heat. If the wood you chose is a (hardwood) ie. white or red oak,ash.you will indeed have to thin the FIRST coat only,50/50 with a thinner recomended by the manf.for what ever finish you use.the rest of coats use streight. A minimum of seven(7) coats will give a durable and deep looking result. Start with air dried stock,cut and mill to proper shape,sand with the grain with 80 grit paper then 120 grit and finally with 220 grit before inital 50/50 application of finish. let the inital application dry for a fiew day's,the first coat will take longer to dry then the following coats. The grain will raise wood after the first coat of finish, you can hand sand with 220 grit paper, (lightly) clean off all surfaces of dust. then apply the first of 6 coats of the finish. The following coats do not have to be sanded if the finish is applied within 24 hours! of each other. however the final 2 coats must be thoroughly dry then sanded in between with 220 grit.using a (tack cloth) clean all surfaces of dust. just a note. when you sand the pieces you should not have any shiny spots left.if you do that means that there is a low spot and the final result will show that. another note, NEVER work out of the can! use a small ,clean container and a badger hair brush,brushing in one direction only keeping a wet edge. Be sure that the END GRAIN of all the pieces are coated as well,as moisture will enter from the ends and stain the wood under your finish. After you drill your holes,use a artist brush and touch them up also. As far as what finish to use? a quality marine (spar vanish)with UV screen. not polyurthane.and not (teak oil) The above finish can also be applied by (spray) if you want. but follow the same sanding directions. Of corse apply only in a dust free and dry area. I did not cover (staining) if a natural wood is what you want, select your stock carefully.align the grain on the floor prior to finishing.sometimes you might have to swap over to get the design you want. any natural stains in the wood can be bleached out with (wood bleach) prior to sanding. as far as staining with a stain ie. mohogany,walnut,ect. they can be aplied prior to the (first)coat of finish.As a former boat yard owner, I have been finishing wooden boats for over fourty years and and this system holds up under salt spray and sun. hope this helps sorry to have so long winded Jim VA.
 
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Old 05-20-2003 | 07:29 AM
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bed wood

Jim

thanks for the info, it's a big help.
 
  #5  
Old 05-20-2003 | 10:43 AM
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Well... Theres another one to print out. Great info!!
 
  #6  
Old 06-23-2003 | 06:02 PM
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bed wood

Ok Jim, I'm following your directions for the spar varnish. I am on coat number 6. I am not sure though what you mean by keeping "a wet edge" on the brush. Also, I have been using a new "white china brisle" brush because I couldn't find a badger bristle brush. Is brush angle important? Also, I seem to be getting a few small bubbles in the finish. I am not going very fast, as I thought that might be the problem. I am filtering the varnish and not working out of the can. Any suggestions? Thanks, John
 
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Old 06-23-2003 | 08:28 PM
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bed wood

Jim Va.'s instructions are right on the money. My qualifications on wood finishing are not quite as good as his, but after aprox. 20 yrs of amatuer/semi-professional cabinet-making and wood carving I can vouch for what Jim said.

One final point - same number of coats on all sides.

 
  #8  
Old 06-24-2003 | 09:15 AM
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Thanks for the input RMF. I think that the advise from Jim is very good. I'm just trying to figure out why I keep getting all the small bubbles and an explaination of the term brush with a wet edge. For the most part, the finish is looking great, but if you get it just right so that you can see the reflection, then the bubbles show. Thanks, John
 
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Old 06-24-2003 | 07:24 PM
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John,

Easiest way to avoid the bubbles is to cut the coats by about 25% thinner.

Sand out the coat(s) with the bubbles and build it back up with thinned coats......not fun, but if you want it to look good and last....


Not sure what Jim means by a wet edge on the brush...

 
  #10  
Old 06-24-2003 | 08:15 PM
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John, I believe he means to partially overlap the second stroke over the first. Like when you are rolling paint on your wall, you partially paint over the first srtoke so you blend in the next stroke. Could be wrong but this is what I took it to mean. I've done my fair share of learning how to get a nice finish on wood as well and Jim's info is right on.

As far as the bubbles, my experience leads me think you may have shaken or mixed air into your varnish or it could be the brush. Some brushes just make it very hard not to get air bubbles.

Make sure you post some pic's of the work!! Good to see you making progress.

Kevin
 
  #11  
Old 06-24-2003 | 09:00 PM
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bed wood

Maintaining a wet edge. Let's see if I can confuse you. You don't want to apply a brush to an area that has begun to dry or you'll leave tracks. Imagine for a moment you are painting a wall in your rental house. You wouldn't want to start in the middle of the wall, then go all the way to the left corner of the room, then return to the middle and finish the right side. The right edge will have dried and you'll leave brush marks on the edge that dries. Make any sense?

Since you're painting something much smaller than a wall, you would just start on one end and work rapidly to the other. Don't do three boards at a time. Varnish when it's not hot or breezy out if you can.
 
  #12  
Old 06-25-2003 | 06:16 AM
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bed wood

Gentlemen; Keeping a WET EDGE if I can explain is, when working from a starting point either the right side of the piece (if you are right handed) or the left side if a lefty. when the first few strokes of the finish you are using have been applied by brushing in (both) directions to level out the thickness of the finish.the final strokes will be in( one) direction only (tward the just applied section) to help dissipate the brush marks that have been left. Use a lite touch. Quickly apply the next section by brushing in either direction as before and overlapping slightly the part you have just finished. Again brush in one direction overlapping prior work. A WET EDGE will allow the finish to level out and have a equal thickness as the rest. However if a wet edge is not kept the final result will have a dry look or a lump of finish that will crinkle or have brush lines in it where the two edges meet. Tempature and direct sun lite have a lot to do when working outside. if the varnish is cool you can warm it by placing the can in very warm water prior to use. Try and NOT use in sunlite as sometimes small bubbles will happen . ABOVE ALL DO NOT SHAKE varnish!!!! stir only. filter often, do not work out of can.have a clean brush, and working space (no dust on final two coats) Varnish can be sprayed,but it is best left to cabinet makers and such. Any inperfections should be corrected prior to the two final coats. As in all finishing it's 99%preperation,and 1%applacation. Reguards Jim VA.
 
  #13  
Old 06-25-2003 | 09:17 AM
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Thanks guys, I will try another coat tonight after I sand it. Is it possible to over brush? I have been starting on the left end and painting toward the right. After it is all painted, I have been pulling one long continuous stroke down each of the side grooves to remove any extra varnish that may have dripped down. Then I start at the left and lightly pull the brush in one long stroke all the way to the right edge. My brush is 2" wide so I have to do this three times to completely cover the board. This seems like a strange question, but am I supposed to be using a wide brush that will let me do the final stroke in one rather than in three pulls? I have to get serious about getting done with the boards. My paint guy says he will probably be done within a week. The truck will be back home and I won't have any working space. I still haven't covered my rod doors parts. Thanks again for the help, John
 
  #14  
Old 06-25-2003 | 02:07 PM
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bed wood

John; You can use a 2" brush but a larger one would work better.(less strokes needed) the more you work the varnish the more likley it is to screw up. When you "tip" the final coat,if you feel more than a little drag on the brush that means that it is already setting up and and all you will do is make a "pull"or brush marks that will not settle out. That is why I said to always work with a "wet edge". By the way, do you have the dimentions of a bed board? It happens that I am at the point that I am assembling the bed with all new steel except the tailgate and the old bed was incorrectly assembled with plywood and 1by4 lath under that. I am going to use some Mohogany (left overs from the boat yard) and I do not have an old piece to copy. Thanks Jim VA.
 
  #15  
Old 06-25-2003 | 03:35 PM
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Thanks Jim, I will get the measurements off of the precut boards for you. Six of the eight have a 1/4" kerf on either side for the rails to set in. The outer two have one kerf on the inside edge and a milled edge to fit under the bedside. John
 


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