drive shaft bolts
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drive shaft bolts
hey guys,
Had a noise develop recently that I am pretty sure is the u-joint up by the t-case going bad. Well I have the staked in u-joints on my truck, called the dealer and they said they can get them out, but the u-joints themselves are 160 a piece and 320 for labor. Well I decided to order a new drive shaft from driveshaftspecialist.com(out of texas, great people by the way) They will build a new one with 1350 series u-joints and ship it to my door for 425 bucks, then I get away from the junk OE design. It should be here early next week. Anyway, I was scoping out removal of the driveshaft and saw that the bolts that hold it on to the pinion flange have a funny looking head on them. I think a 6-point 13mm socket is what I need to use, but was gonna check with guys on here. Is there a special socket I need to get? or will a 6 point 13mm work? I don't want to strip the heads(obviously). Thanks guys!
Had a noise develop recently that I am pretty sure is the u-joint up by the t-case going bad. Well I have the staked in u-joints on my truck, called the dealer and they said they can get them out, but the u-joints themselves are 160 a piece and 320 for labor. Well I decided to order a new drive shaft from driveshaftspecialist.com(out of texas, great people by the way) They will build a new one with 1350 series u-joints and ship it to my door for 425 bucks, then I get away from the junk OE design. It should be here early next week. Anyway, I was scoping out removal of the driveshaft and saw that the bolts that hold it on to the pinion flange have a funny looking head on them. I think a 6-point 13mm socket is what I need to use, but was gonna check with guys on here. Is there a special socket I need to get? or will a 6 point 13mm work? I don't want to strip the heads(obviously). Thanks guys!
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thanks. I couldn't believe the quote from the dealer. Over 600 bucks. The guy I talked to from driveshaftspecialist said they build a lot for the f150's. I can see why, I think it will be a good quality driveshaft, none of this "scrap if dropped" crap.
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Most dealerships do charge too much imo. But we have to realize that they have high overhead costs as well. In most areas the dealerships advertise constantly on local tv and in local newsprint media. It's possible that the manufacturers require x amount of advertising as part of their franchise agreements. And most dealerships are highly leveraged which adds tons to the cost structure. That's some of the reasons they are called stelerships on many forums. Anyway, I'm glad you getting things done the right way at an affordable price. Now if Dynatrac or someone would just make a part time conversion kit for the F150's I'd be happy.
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got my new driveshaft tonight. I didn't have time to put it on, other stuff going on. I plan to put it on tomorrow afternoon. Everything looks good on it, looks like a well built shaft. I did mess around here a little bit ago and broke loose 3 of the 4 bolts. The fourth one is on top and I need to rotate around the shaft to be able to get my socket and rachet on it. Anyway, they were TIGHT so that brings me to my question. I got some blue thread locker to put on the bolts when I put the new shaft on, does anyone know what they should be torqued to? Or should I just tighten them till I get them as tight as I can? thanks guys.
also, should I grease the inside of the shaft with the splines before putting it on the output shaft?
also, should I grease the inside of the shaft with the splines before putting it on the output shaft?
Last edited by bigunit54; May 21, 2012 at 09:39 PM. Reason: added question
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I don't know the torque specs off the top of my head. It's in most shop manuals, though. As for breaking the bolts loose, I have used a 12-point box end wrench and hit the end with a dead blow hammer to break them loose. When installing, I tighten them as tight as I can get them by hand and try to get another 1/8 to 1/4 turn using the same box wrench/dead blow hammer routine. I haven't lost a drive shaft yet using that technique. But torqueing with a torque wrench is the correct procedure and one that I would recommend using especially if you have never done this before.
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I don't know the torque specs off the top of my head. It's in most shop manuals, though. As for breaking the bolts loose, I have used a 12-point box end wrench and hit the end with a dead blow hammer to break them loose. When installing, I tighten them as tight as I can get them by hand and try to get another 1/8 to 1/4 turn using the same box wrench/dead blow hammer routine. I haven't lost a drive shaft yet using that technique. But torqueing with a torque wrench is the correct procedure and one that I would recommend using especially if you have never done this before.
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It's a possibility that it may be in the 4wd system. There is a very thorough thread on this by XJCamaro as he had some problems with his 4wd system on his 04. It's titled "Everything You Wanted to Know About Your 4wd System and Then Some" or something along those lines. I dates back about a year or so ago. It's possible that your hubs are trying to engage due to vacuum leak. Could be a ball joint or something. Do you notice it on rougher pavement? I'm just guessing, but it could be a lot of different things making the noise. Could it be a 1/2 shaft? Just some things to check.
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It's a possibility that it may be in the 4wd system. There is a very thorough thread on this by XJCamaro as he had some problems with his 4wd system on his 04. It's titled "Everything You Wanted to Know About Your 4wd System and Then Some" or something along those lines. I dates back about a year or so ago. It's possible that your hubs are trying to engage due to vacuum leak. Could be a ball joint or something. Do you notice it on rougher pavement? I'm just guessing, but it could be a lot of different things making the noise. Could it be a 1/2 shaft? Just some things to check.
They are great people. I would recommend using them. The drive shaft is nice and like I said I am not upset that I bought it. I am approaching 100,000 miles and I very well could have had a u-joint go out soon, so now I got brand new u-joints in a new shaft and these are normal 1350 series u-joints. But he told me the same thing, they build a lot for f-150's. Makes sense, better than dealing with the staked in ones. They are reasonable on their prices I think.
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I will. I just checked the rear diff fluid tonight to make sure it is not low, it was ok. On Friday(first day I got time) I am going to take off the rear wheels and check the e-brake and stuff. I have new pads and rotors on the back that I put on myself, and I left the e-brake way loose, so I don't think it is rubbing but I will check. The more I hear the noise I think it is coming from the rear. I have an apt with the the local dealer for a ride along with a tech, but it is a small dealer and their drivetrain guy just left on vacation, so the apt is not until june 4th. Hope the truck holds out till then, I got a lot of driving to do between now and then.
