This time I'm taking my time... lol

got the rod bolts torqued to 45 with the ARP lube




tried to use the Fox body 351W oil pan but that hits the millings HV oil pump too... seems all stock pans hit this pump so beware!!! going to cut up this pan too I guess...



went to install the cam and had to shave a little off the block retainer... also on a 351W or later model SB... be careful when you use a dual row timing set sometimes the cam gear will hit the block plate that holds the cam in place... mine did see pic below..


rubbed the block plate on some 80 grit sandpaper stuck to my bench until I got .005 end play



after I got the cam installed I checked the cam with my home made degree wheel worked great too.. and the Lunati cam was right on the money installed straight up...





@ .050 cam lobe lift the degree wheel should show 7.5 degrees BTDC and it did so it's good




Now for the bummer I had these E7 heads machined for screw in studs about 5 or 6 years ago and never had a problem... after I took them apart for this build I noticed a lot of the stud bosses were cracked WTF .... It seems the machine shop that milled, drilled and threaded the bores never put a chamfer at the top of the holes... It is needed because the studs have a radius made into the bolt and the hole need a relief cut into the boss... So I cleaned the holes with thinner, used some head bolt washers that have a chamfer made into them and then filled the bosses with JB Weld.... I added enough so it squirted out the cracks.... I hope this will work... It ran with dual valve springs for years and now it has single spring so I'm hoping ....

I tried to drill some reliefs into the boss before I found the head bolt washes...







Went to install the heads and I noticed the gaskets didn't have any marking on them to show which way they go.. if you ever run into this remember the water has to enter the heads from the rear so make sure the holes are located at the rear ...

here you can see the hole at the very end...



and on the front there are no holes..



Got the heads bolted down time to check Piston to valve clearance... I was going to check it before I got this far but forgot...




OK Cams in heads are on and tight.... I used the two solid lifters I used to degree the cam to check P/V clearance... I took all the lash out of the rocker... then using a screwdriver I pried the valve open and stuck a .110 allen wrench in between the roller and the valve tip... so the valve is open .110 at TDC..... I then cranked it over a few times and nothing hit so I'm good... BTW this cam has 522 on the intake 538 lift on the exhaust side 227/233 duration @.050 it's the Voodoo 268 cam..




That's about as far as I got waiting on a distributor gear because I trashed that too when I put this together the last time... Black and Gold it's going to be... 66 Mustang colors...

I got an oval single 4v air cleaner I'm going to use... gonna paint those and the valve covers gold w/red metallic mixed in... car is going to be Red with the white stripes

 

Not sure if anyone noticed but this is in the next bay... it's my brothers 1964 Fairlane T-Bolt clone

 

Man, I'd be one nervous Nellie with those stud bosses.

Yeah, a high volume oil pump won't fit in a truck pan. I've got a new Melling hv pump sitting on a shelf and a plain old on the engine...

 

Look at the last pic you can see where I made the truck pan a little deeper...

 

Just got the distributor gear handed to me... should be back at it tomorrow... hopefully I'll have it running..

 

Did you notice that who ever did the screw in stud work didn't even have the hole centered in the boss? Look and see how thin the boss material is (where it's cracked) compared to the opposite side of the boss.

 

That is normal, I know it looks wrong but he just followed what ford had drilled.. The rockers are all lined up perfect. He pulled all the pressed in studs, milled the bosses and finally he drilled and tapped them I just wish he had cut a chamfer in them...