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When I went to refuel my truck I filled it all the way up. It was pretty much empty. When the automatic pump lever kicked off and the tank was full gas spilled out from somewhere ontop of the tank down the sides of the tank. I didn't get to see exactly where it was coming from. But that same day in the morning before I even filled up the Check Engine Light came on for some kind of EVAP leak I forgot what the code was, a P0155 or something similiar. But it's still on. I figured it won't go off until it's totally fixed. I've never pulled a gas tank on one of these newer model trucks with all these sensors and extra hoses on them. Only tank I ever pulled was a 65 Valiant and a 73 Charger and I wasn't worried about breaking anything because it was being replaced anyway. I looked at the Ford service manual and it seems straightforward about dropping the tank. Do I need any special tools for the lines? All I have is the tool to get the fuel filter lines off. I don't have the claw wrench to unlock the lock ring on the fuel pump. Besides what could have caused it to leak like that. I noticed the fuel pump top is metal. There is a single vapor line at the back I can still see that looks ok. I can't really see anything ontop of the tank until I drop it. I thought the filler pipe hoses might be it, they look all rotted. But Ford told me I have to buy the $300 metal fuel filler neck to get the hoses, eventhough the original hoses were clamped on. What usually leaks ontop of the gas tank at 266,000 miles?
cant give you any specific advice, but from what I have read its easier to pull the bed off than drop the tank. I also had a fuel leak when I filled up a couple of weeks ago, might still be there but it has not recurred since? anyhow I have dropped a fuel tank on a dodge caravan and it was not fun so I think I would lean to pulling the bed as an option. I think there are 4 bed bolts, the wiring harness and the fuel filler to disconnect, but dont take as gospel. On the dodge I just used a punch to drive the ring open and remove the fuel pump, should be about the same for the truck. I am sure some others may chime in.
When I went to refuel my truck I filled it all the way up. It was pretty much empty. When the automatic pump lever kicked off and the tank was full gas spilled out from somewhere ontop of the tank down the sides of the tank. I didn't get to see exactly where it was coming from. But that same day in the morning before I even filled up the Check Engine Light came on for some kind of EVAP leak I forgot what the code was, a P0155 or something similiar. But it's still on. I figured it won't go off until it's totally fixed. I've never pulled a gas tank on one of these newer model trucks with all these sensors and extra hoses on them. Only tank I ever pulled was a 65 Valiant and a 73 Charger and I wasn't worried about breaking anything because it was being replaced anyway. I looked at the Ford service manual and it seems straightforward about dropping the tank. Do I need any special tools for the lines? All I have is the tool to get the fuel filter lines off. I don't have the claw wrench to unlock the lock ring on the fuel pump. Besides what could have caused it to leak like that. I noticed the fuel pump top is metal. There is a single vapor line at the back I can still see that looks ok. I can't really see anything ontop of the tank until I drop it. I thought the filler pipe hoses might be it, they look all rotted. But Ford told me I have to buy the $300 metal fuel filler neck to get the hoses, eventhough the original hoses were clamped on. What usually leaks ontop of the gas tank at 266,000 miles?
it really is a good idea to put all the info about your truck in your signature if you can. that way we could give you an exact part #.............that being said the best way for a DIYer to do any work to the fuel tank is to remove the bed........ you need to find out where the leak is coming from.....on your truck I believe you can just buy fuel filler hose to replace the 2 you have if they are leaking. you can buy the metal fuel filler neck online for about $100 if that is the issue.Gates 24710 - Molded Gasoline Filler Neck Hose | O'Reilly Auto Parts
In many cases Removing the Bed Helps in the aiding of repairs. ie. Fuel pump replacement, hanger and shackle replacement, etc
1)the fuel cap filler is held on with 3 bolts 7mm?
2)there is an electrical disconnect at the bumper for the taillights.
3)The bed is held on with 6 torx 55 bolts. 2 of the bolts closest to the cab are longer than the other 4. I recommend buying 2 torx 55 sockets in case one breaks. 4 or 5 of the bolts can be accessed from underneath and should be hit with a rust penetrator. I recommend at least one of the following, impact wrench, 1/2 ratchet with a pipe or a 1/2 breaker bar. it takes some muscle to remove the bolts.
4)The bed can be slid down for a fuel pump replacement or removed by 2 Men or one man and a cherry picker.
5) In the event you are removing the bed for a fuel pump replacement. MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE NEG BATTERY TERMINAL.
6) You should change your fuel filter while the bed is off. A special tool is required. 5/16 FF performance tool W83130 or equivalent. hit the lines with pb blaster first.
7) I replaced my bolts with regular hex bolts. Ford wanted $16 a bolt. I ordered my online at the the boltdepot.com for less than $3 each. the 2 cloest to the cab are 12m x 1.75 x 120mm and the other 4 are 12m x 1.75 x 100mm. I got the storngest grade they had 10.9=for automotive use
8) I changed the rear hangers and shackles on my rear leaf springs. I used Dorman 722-010 and 722-001. all 4 pieces were less than $100. They come in a kit with everything you need, bolts etc. I used a grinder to grind the heads of the bolts off. this only took about 10 minutes a hanger. I had a dewault grinder and bought 2 metal grinding wheels at the home depot. I only used 1 they were about $3. I had a hard time getting the bushing out of the eye of the spring. I finally decided to use my drill and a good 1/4 bit. I drilled the rubber out that was in the middle of the bushing. the rest just slide out. I greased up the new bushing and temporarily put the bolt in and hammered it in the eye. You don't want to torque the bolts that attach the spring to the shackle until the truck is on the ground.
I looked under the truck some more to see if I could notice any broke hoses or anything but didn't see anything obvious. I went to the salvage yard today to get a blower motor wheel and airbox bottom that I broke when taking out the blower motor. While I was there I pulled everything I needed out of a 99 Ranger 118" wheelbase 3.0L. The fuel tank had previously been pulled. It was in the bed so I pulled the fuel filler hoses and took them with me to match up. I paid attention to the top of the tank to see what might have leaked on mine. There is a valve at the back with one hose which I checked on mine and didn't notice anything. The fuel was spilling more in the center. Then there was the fuel pump hole and the two fill hose spouts. All the spouts and the valve in the back looked to be permanently sealed into the tank and not replaceable. So if I had to assume anything leaking on mine it would be a fuel pump tank seal or one of those filler hoses at the end. Now that it's below half of a tank full the fuel smell isn't noticeable anymore. I probably won't try to tackle dropping my tank myself. I'll take it to a show that I've known for years they said it would be under $100 to drop the tank for me. Oh yeah I'd add my Ranger information in the signature if I knew how to do it. But I don't know where to find it.
Hi I just bought a 97 4x4 that leaks like that. It was hit in the left rear so i thought accident may have cause it. There is a new rubber fill hose on ebay for $30. My guage sending unit also stopped working due to the accident. I will pull the bed off. Have done it on other trucks before. Let me know what you find.
The fuel filler hose is notorious for splitting. I bought mine off Ebay $30 and change PART STEEL NEW POWDERCOATED BLACK Fuel Filler Neck Tank | eBay
Parts stores and Ford want over $200 for them. One note my gas cap would not fit there steel filler neck. I just put my old on the new hose. No issues so far. And yes pulling the bed is the only way to do this or a fuel pump replacement.
I looked under the truck some more to see if I could notice any broke hoses or anything but didn't see anything obvious. I went to the salvage yard today to get a blower motor wheel and airbox bottom that I broke when taking out the blower motor. While I was there I pulled everything I needed out of a 99 Ranger 118" wheelbase 3.0L. The fuel tank had previously been pulled. It was in the bed so I pulled the fuel filler hoses and took them with me to match up. I paid attention to the top of the tank to see what might have leaked on mine. There is a valve at the back with one hose which I checked on mine and didn't notice anything. The fuel was spilling more in the center. Then there was the fuel pump hole and the two fill hose spouts. All the spouts and the valve in the back looked to be permanently sealed into the tank and not replaceable. So if I had to assume anything leaking on mine it would be a fuel pump tank seal or one of those filler hoses at the end. Now that it's below half of a tank full the fuel smell isn't noticeable anymore. I probably won't try to tackle dropping my tank myself. I'll take it to a show that I've known for years they said it would be under $100 to drop the tank for me. Oh yeah I'd add my Ranger information in the signature if I knew how to do it. But I don't know where to find it.
Go to UserCP on the top of the page, under settings and options on the left you will find Edit Signature. Click on that to add your info.
Got my new one from ebay. Pulled my bed off without a problem. Hose had split right at the gas tank. My cap fit on the new filler neck. Also my float for my sending unit had cracked. $15 from ford vs $50 for an aftermarket sending unit.
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