Do you hate that squeaking/squealing noise coming from under your hood? I never liked the idea of paying $20 for an idler or tensioner pulley all because of a $5 bearing. The new trick at some auto parts stores is to only stock complete tensioner assemblies instead of just the pulley. This way they nail you $75 instead of just $20.

Some time ago I decided to see if I could disassemble these bearing, clean, and then regrease them, just like we do with wheel bearings. I found that it wasn't that hard to do. If the bearing appears to be rusted or scored in any way, then replace it. Otherwise it will make a horribly loud noise after you reinstall it.

Here is a tensioner assembly, followed by the same but with the pulley removed. In the third picture you can see how I used a small screwdriver to pry off the bearing covers. Before removing the covers, wipe everything down just to make it easier to see where the edges are. These bearing covers are a thin metal with a rubberized coating. The fourth pictures shows the cover popped off.

Down in the fifth picture one cover is completely off and the bearings are exposed. In the sixth picture both covers are off and flipped over showing the sides that face the ball bearings. In that picture you can see the metal with the black rubber material along the edges. Also, the bearing are all cleaned up. I just use carb cleaner, Q-Tips, and compressed air. I keep cleaning until the gritty feeling when turning the bearing is all gone. The seventh picture shows what you need to use for grease. It has to be rated for wheel bearings otherwise the grease will overheat and fail.

In the eighth picture I'm using a small tool to force the grease between the ball bearings and also into the grooves the ball bearings ride in, (Q-Tips work good here too.) The ninth picture is a shot of the backside. See how the grease is starting to ooze through. When that starts to happen all the way around, you've added enough grease. The tenth and final picture just shows the cover back on. Sometimes they go back in easy and sometimes you struggle with them a bit, but they will go back in.

 

Awesome job. Looks like I'll be wrenching this weekend to preform some preventative maintenance.

 

Excellent post Alloro. As usual, always adding value to FTE. With 285k on my Expy, it's time also for me to also re-grease before the squeeking.
Thanks.

 

When my pulley failed 1/2 way between Phoenix/LA (hot desert) the wobbling pulley wore out and ruined the AC pulley.
I was able to limp home by squirting WD-40 on it, but that doesn't work too well as a fix.
This inexpensive, easy to follow maintenance guide can save a lot of headaches.
Thanks for posting it.

 

Mine fragged about two months ago, the belt slipped for about 2 miles before it let loose. Thankfully I only had another 2 miles to go to get to the house. And thankfully Ford has the limp home mode that cuts out cylinders

 

Any way to replace the bearing itself? If so, do you recall what the bearing size is?

 

You can press the bearing out and press a new one in. I never replaced just the bearing so I do not know it's size. But for the $15-20 for a whole new pulley I don't think I would take the time to remove the bearing, hunt down a correct replacement, and then put it all back together in the hopes of saving $10.

 

Based on the number in picture 10, CG-425 I found this.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ng-part-s.html

He has a cross reference number. The CG-425 seems to be very popular as an idler pully bearing.

 

I did some searching myself and found the dimensions of the bearing are:
40X17X12 mm
ODxIDxWidth

I found many for sale over on eBay for 2.5-3 bucks with free shipping, just search for the part number: 6203-2RS

Apparently these are very common in alternators too. I might pick up this $14.77 10-pack just to have them laying around.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-6203-2RS-Premium-seal-6203-2rs-bearing-6203-ball-bearings-6203-RS-ABEC3-/140895767893?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20ce0acd55

 

Hi guys i acctually just did this fix today but i replaced them...problem i had was the tentioner pulley was rubbing inward against the timing cover or the block whatever it is...that was because the 12mm thickness was about 2mm to thick...what i had to do was use a washer on each of the three bolts for clearance...only the tentioner requires this..