I am the happy new owner of a '49 F6 dump truck. It has the 226ci flathead and I am getting it ready to use. It has been in a barn untill 8 years ago so everything is in pretty good shape. The odometer says 22k and I have heard the engine run (pouring gas down the carb) and it sounds good. My question is, would it be a bad idea to use a Seafoam treatment in the gas and or oil? If so, why?

 

I don't see why it would hurt anything. If you put it in the oil, I'd just run it for a while(maybe a day or so) and then change your oil/filter just to flush out all the gunk it frees up.

Running it through the gas should be fine too. Usually the most effective way is to run it through the intake, if you've never used it before just google seafoam and there are several sites showing what to do.

 

Thanks! I read up how to do the treatment earlier, but some people talked about how it would ruin older engines. Their engines were probably bad to begin with because very few people ever talk about having problems with it.

 

If I were going to put a vehicle that had been stored that long back into service, which I am currently doing, I would make sure the fuel tank was clean before I put anything in it, even gasoline. A carb rebuild and fuel pump replacement would be in order. So far as Seafoam in the oil, I believe I would drop the pan and see how much junk was in there. The oil pan on that truck may or may not have a clean out- inspection plate on the bottom.

 

I agree with dropping the pan and cleaning it out first, also a good idea to pull the intake and see if the valley is sludged. Seafoam is very good at breaking junk free, including lead sludge that you don't want circulating. Seafoam could break stuff loose that plugs the oil pump screen. Pulling the pan and the intake are easy and it gives a lot of reassurance before putting it back in regular service.

 

Ok, I will add that to my list of to-do's. So what you guys are saying is that Seafoam in the crankcase may not be a good idea at all or I just need to check the mentioned things before treating it?

 

I think they're saying this is one of those 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' kind of things. Trying to make something better can have adverse effects.

 

Howdy,

Aside from the fact that Seafoam and MMO(Marvel Mystery Oil) like all the other crop of snake oils is just naptha mixed with light oil, using it to dilute your engine oil will result in a risk of breaking "stuff" free that could plug your oil screen and/or filter.

If it breaks stuff free ON THE OTHER SIDE OF YOUR SCREEN, it could lodge in an oil pathway that supplies a bearing.....if you starve a bearing, it could seize with catastrophic results.

If the engine runs, just change the oil and run it. Use a good oil and change it frequently.

I would not put ANYTHING in the gasoline. especially naptha mixed with oil. Once the engine is hot, it could promote detonation and foul spark plugs......

There IS NO mechanic in a can..... If the pan needs cleaning, clean it! If the carb needs rebuilding, rebuild it!



Regards,


Rick

 

What Wayne said!! You will get all kinds of advice,….. up to and including that YOU (not them) should do a complete major full overhaul before starting her up. A long time ago it was believed (still true, I think) that because the oils where not as good then as today’s, that carbon could build up behind the piston rings, if you use a high detergent oil or a flush you will wash out this carbon and the rings will not seal as tight and the engine will burn oil. So opposite to the above advice, mine is, ………..do nothing and drive the pee out of her!

 

My message was a mix of what's been said. If there is sludge (especially flaky dried out stuff) in the pan or valley, it needs to be cleaned out FIRST. THEN a can of Seafoam in the oil will help clean up varnish and the film of lighter sludge that undoubtedly is in the engine from years of use with non-detergent oils. A couple tablespoons in each cylinder to soak the rings overnight will break up sticky goo that may prevent them from expanding/contracting freely. (spin the engine with plugs out before running to make sure it's all out of the cylinders) A little in the gas tank may help clean up the valve stems.

IT WILL DO NO HARM if there is no major sludge to break free and plug things up. I have used it on an engine that was burning a quart every 500 miles. After an overnight cylinder soak and 100 easy miles with it in the oil, I did an oil change and from that point on, consumption was over 1,000 miles a quart. Your mileage may vary. It will not correct any mechanical deficiencies.

I would assume that you'll be keeping an eagle eye on everything this engine does for a while anyway, and not taking off on a high-speed, cross-country trek. If you start hearing knocks or see excessive smoking (Seafoam in the gas can make smoke) or no oil pressure, kill it!

What would worry me about this particular engine is the low miles; it could have 10,000 hours on it but little mileage. If they changed oil based on mileage, it could be really plugged up. Best to find out what's inside and go from there.

 

Don't forget to pull the valve covers that are under the exhaust manifold off the side of the engine too. There is a long bolt that holds the road draft tube on that also helps hold that cover plate on.

 

what the heck are valve covers??? I flushed my truck with clean oil and woke her up from a 15 year snooz ,,,and I like snake oil...Whyn's had "tune up in a can"as I recall..

 

We're talking about the side valve six cylinder engine. The flathead with the intake and exhaust manifold on the driver side. Very common in trucks of the era. Quite a bit of torque for the day. The valve covers live behind the manifolds.

Excuse me, I should have said "passenger side"

 

Yeah, I missed the "226" part of the OP. Same deal though, sludge builds up in the lifter galley and oil pan. Just that pulling the intake would be a waste of time!

 

an' I thought a 226 was just a small 8...gotta learn to read all of the message..so what have we figgered out ?? good or bad??